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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. All 1950 NewYorkers came with Fluid drive and of course "Prestomatic" Hi-Lo 2 range 4 speed transmission, all came with the straight eight engine as standard .Power brakes were standard too. Bob
  2. Dodgeb4ya

    Dodge B3B 1951

    Nice work!
  3. Donald Rook in Mena owned those cars for many years. Bob
  4. A couple close ups of the special carter #T109-70 vent or emulsion tube removal tool. Bob
  5. If you always set the points back at .020" stock timing will always be at the same mark TDC/2 degrees before ect. I would deal with the timing later if you have now found sooty fouled plugs-thats your problem for running rough it sounds like. Timing being off will cause sluggish starts and loss of power-Late/retarded where as early/over advanced will cause excessive spark knock under moderate load and resistance to crank over upon start up-spark occurs too early igniting fuel mixture before the piston comes up to TDC. Put some new pluygs in it. Good luck! Bob
  6. Some other ideas--..You might want to pull a plug wire with engine idling one at a time to see which cylinder or cylinders is weak/dead-The RPM wont drop off when you pull off the wire to the problem cylinder or cylinders. Look for a bad spark plug/vacumn hose off,stuck valve ect.. You should probably look at the plugs now and if they are black replace them don't clean them-they should be tan in color. Coil also could be carbon tracked- high tension tower to either primary stud-shows up usually under load. Compression test might also be called for . More than likely its plugs or points/condensor issue-simple things 1st!
  7. Make sure the little 2 distributor wires in the distributor are in good and tight condition. One is a ground wire and the other the 6 volt feed wire which commonly breaks or can ground out as the vacumn advance operates and flexes this wire. Also check the fuel supply-flex hose at fuel pump for cracking. If it now runs worse now after you adjusted the points I'd be pulling the distributor to more carefully look at it- point contacts and the wires ect.! Bob
  8. No apologies necessary at all-just take care of yourself. Keep posting advice too- -whether good or bad, right or wrong we all still like to read it from everyone!! Bob
  9. Lotsa cotton balls.
  10. Gas will dissolve RTV! . Gaskets on a carb should be assembled with no sealant. Check all mating sufaces for flatness before assembly. A piece of glass is good to check flatness. Bob
  11. Aren't the OE valve guides cast iron except on the big H-duty trucks W/ sodium exhaust valves- those guides being bronze? Bob
  12. I use California car covers also- top of the line versions-no problems and fit perfect but pricey too. Bob
  13. I believe most factory installed OD's starting in 52 had a different type of lower bell housing to support the extra weight of the OD trans. It was a cast iron lower cover that the lower 2 holes of the 6 holes on a OD attached to (Threaded into). That homemade mount looks kinda weak too! I don't think you need to install another auxillary mount to support the OD. It should be good to go with the way it is. Bob
  14. Looks to be a 2-1/2 tonner.
  15. It's for checking piston TDC or valve timing or even piston stroke.
  16. Big T/Sigs for a big boy Dodge! 4" lowers and 3" uppers.
  17. New complete 3 piece chain sets interchange between the 23" and 25" engines. I would not just replace a worn chain and put a new one on an old worn crank and cam gear. Bob
  18. Jim, I have reposted the crankshaft nut sizes/styles picture with the 1-11/16" hand crank nut included with the 1-13/16" nut too. I just didn't look through my crank nut selection well enough! Bob
  19. I crank mine up all the time-lets not be a pussy!
  20. This thread needs to be TERMINATED- It's just too stupid!
  21. Big rubber lip goes to the inside.
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