Dodgeb4ya

That thick rubber washer goes at the back (rear end) of the master cylinder- Between the check valve and the rear M/cyl end cap! Was that a Rock Auto professional grade M/C or the cheaper china made cylinder? I've been there done that on a 40 Ford. The Chinese M/C was faulty-had to return it and get the professional grade US made cylinder.

Reg, Check the treadle linkage adjustment-maybe it's jammed at max speed. It should be quick to figure out. Disconnect the rod and manually operate the motor. After you fix it you can get into the upholstery business and make the big $$$$$. Bob

Reg, I can sew as fast or slow as I like- straightaways and hard slow curves. Sun visors are the real test of slowness! These Pfaffs are a really good H-Duty machine and totally controllable. The one I showed is a 145 series. I also have a Consew which is a little more unforgiving speedwise. Your clutch must be out of adjustment or damaged possibly. Just turn the handwheel if you want to sew! Might be a bit too slow though!

Those are the ones to use. I use pliers with soft plastic caps over the jaws to install the clips-kinda tough on the old hands and fingers installing a lot of them.. I also use a bit of windex/water to help them slide on the vinyl material so as not to tear it. Use plenty of them too. Bob

No need to remove the glass-just the window mouldings.

Here's the factory way the twin carters on the trucks are adjusted-pretty easy way to do it and it works. Bob

It's the 2 speed rear axle speedo adapter,it corrects the speedo for rear axle hi and low range shifts. Bob

Well to answer the above questions... Yep I've got a lot of patience- and enjoy doing all my own work, here is a pic of the box of "Au-ve-co" seat clips I used-available through any upholstery shop or Upholstery supply company. The sewing machine is a industrial Pfaff machine used for any type of automotive or commercial heavy type of work. As for horse hair-can't get it any more including rubberized horse hair-at least that I know of. I had to take apart another old seat to get springs and some horse hair out of plus I also used high density foam/cotton batting and some Dacron batting to get the firmness/fill out that I felt I needed. Seat is firm and flat and even. Welting was made out of 4 strand alarm wire-.112" diameter! I didn't have the right diameter proper welt cord on hand.

I am just re-doing the original seat in my 1952 dodge. The original seats done right are good for even a long drive if padded correct for the driver. I added the optional "Air Seat" Valve and frame assembly and correctly replaced the cardboard bottom panel which requires separating spot welds holding upper to lower seat frame assemblys-only way to replace the cardboard. Then I had to reweld it all back together and replace 7 seat coil springs and a few smaller springs. I used a heavy grade truck seat material I got from "Perfect- Fit McDonald" a wholesale upholstery suppy company out of Seattle and Portland Oregon. $18.00 a yard. Kinda a tan with slight tiny black lines through it. The welting cord I made is black, not tan-not original but to what I wanted -a bit custom! Matches the door and kick panels already done. Now on to the upper seat back and Visors! Bob

Heres some pictures bringing in a new 20' 4 post lift with my Dodge for my shop.

Here are some pics of a 1952 Dodge right side.

1946-8 Chrysler 6 cylinder, rocker moulding looks to be the shorter 6 cylinder one. Bob

Reg, Those dual horns are one of the factory Dodge truck items I have never had the pleasure of owning! Bob

On the trucks with single horns no relay is necessary-nor did they come with one. Bob

If you want to hook up both chokes-not really necessary for the car applications-here is how the factory Dodge trucks with twin carbs did it. One single long choke cable goes through the 1st carb choke and continues on to the 2nd carb choke. See the picture-very simple to do. A separate piece of cable housing (outer spiral wound housing) covers the inner cable between the carbs and fits into the choke bracket clamps. Bob

You probably should check the jet numbers of both carbs if your up to it- Main metering/Step-up /accelerator jet and the idle orifice tube numbers between both carbs. There was a early and a late series production of these two #'s of carbs for 1949-53 Plym's-Idle orifice tubes were different sizes.Also these old carbs sometimes were rebuilt and jets ended up different than stock production. Good idea to check them before it all goes back together. Bob

Nice tools Rich!

Rich, Could you let us see your tool pictures too? Pretty please?

This a very specialized old tool. I bought this one from a old Chrysler dealership that was closing. If you are good at fabbing, you probably should make one. Start with the right size wrench-thin it down (wrench needs to be pretty thin) and bend it to your desired shape. Bob

This is the special camber wrench tool that I use. Bob

This is the mentioned tool to screw the diff cap back on or off.... Bob

With a good strong running flathead you should be able to tow a small (small) "canned ham" trailer with few problems. Just be easy on the truck-shift down and don't over rev on steeper grades! Bob

There are 3 types, GEN - General Purpose Acme ASME B1.5-1997 CEN - Centralizing Acme ASME B1.5-1997 STUB - Stub Acme ASME B1.5-1997

There should be a curved shaped spring clip holding each rear brake shoe against the backing plates. On the front there is a pin and spring with round retainer that hold the shoes against the backing plate. The parts book shows all of this. The missing rear brake shoe retaining spring clips are rivited to the backing plate and are part of the backing plate. You probably won't find just a clip so you might have to use pin and springs like on the front brakes. Bob

I wouldn't bother to weld it either- get another one-better way to go-just make sure the heat riser shaft and bushings are not worn out or severely frozen up.