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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Sodium valves today I would think are kinda hard to get and very costly. I have them in several of my dodge trucks as factory equipment. I also decided to put them in a 265 I put in my 52 Dodge 1 ton back in 73 with bronze guides and that engine is still running like a champ! I have never seen a sodium exhaust valve burn. Stem size is larger at .437". They are a little clicky at .020" clearance too. If your truck is always working under really heavy loads- IMO sodium is good! Bob
  2. Please-Lets not start another flareup again on Michael. Bob Lazon knows his stuff and it is a T/S indicator for Dodge only. Question has been answered correctly more than once-end of this thread hopefully! Lets be kind! Bob
  3. Timing cover will come off with out pulling the pan for sure.
  4. Thats a major Napa rip job! They (Napa) never used to charge me SO shipping and I buy a lot of wholesale from Napa ! Now they charge everyone outrageous high shipping rates! Good ole days are gone....
  5. Your truck with the single diaphram brake booster uses a 1-1/2" bore Master cylinder. All other standard non booster dodge trucks use a 1-1/4" bore M/C. Thats why you are having trouble finding a new one. I think Napa can supply a kit-Napa #71 is the kit number from a 1982 Napa brake parts book . #785 is the Napa new M/C part number for a 1-1/2" bore. A lot of Napa's brake parts for antique cars and trucks seem to be mostly chinese produced parts as of recent and their parts numbering has changed too, making it harder to cross numbers over. Keep lookin- you will find what you need. Bob
  6. I double that!
  7. Have 3 different lifts in my garage. 2 for storage and some work- 1 for lotsa work.
  8. Fresh Air Pkg Instructions
  9. Fresh Air Pkg Instructions
  10. Fresh Air Pkg Instructions
  11. It'a shim for 1946-52 old MoPar cars. It fits between the lower control arm pivot and frame and corrects for frame to control arm discreptancies either in manufacturing or after an accident. Have found them in several 1946-52 Chryslers and a few other models. Bob
  12. Crank gears are tough to get off-you need a puller. Replacement after market chains won't fit on factory MoPar (DPCD) crank and cam gears in most cases. Correct way is to replace both cam and crank gears and chain as a matched set. Bob
  13. Wow, I always thought these old flatheads could out last a Toyota or Honda engine!
  14. Here is a shot of the hole that xbedbugger needs to be measured-it's a old pic of my clutch job on my 1952 1 ton. Sorry I don't have the diameter-never thought to measure it for future needs.
  15. Here is a shot of a 1939 P8 Plym convertible I just installed the original rebuilt engine in with the NOS vibration dampener. Fit just fine as the pic shows. You have to rotate the dampener to orientate the flat spots to be able to remove the belt though. Bob
  16. These pivots might be the same as later 1950-52 hardtop pivots. Here are pictures of both a 1950 Chrysler hardtop and a 1952 Plymouth Belvedere hardtop vent window top pivot. Possiblymore parts car avenues to hunt down these hard to find parts.
  17. The 1st picture is a adjustable front wheel bearing lock nut assembly. I have these on my 52 dodge 1 ton. Works very well and is much more accurately adjustable. They were an after market setup. Saw a set on a 52 Ply wagon I did a brake job on a few months ago too. Bob
  18. These 1 ton diff's are all by themselves. Came in 3.9/4.3 the most common ratio and 4.89. They are hard to find in good tight condition. The screw together barrel differential case cap pins come loose/or out and it's a real problem to fix easily. All are 16 spline axle shafts.The ring and pinion gears are rather small too and can break. Parts are near impossible to find too.
  19. 350 Chevy's are just plain boring, and installed in everything from Fiats to grandma's old Malibu. I think you can even order new ones from 7-11. Hot Rodders can have em! Give me an engine I can cook my pancakes on-like my old MoPar flatheads!!!
  20. Jim, If you have a dial indicator you could check the camshaft for being damaged-seems like it is not a straight cam anymore. Bob
  21. Don, I agree with you about cams not bending, they usually break. I have never seen a cam in a flathead get bent/broken ect. I don't know if in years past I have ever tried to break a worn out flathead cam. I have snapped old small block chevy cams-Only way for Jim to check the cam is with a dial indicator. This is a really odd situation!
  22. I have used a 6X6 piece of plywood and a heavy layer of cloth between the plywood and pan, and contour the cloth to the pan shape so the jacking load is spread out softly so to speak. I place the wood as far to the front end of the pan. There is a rib at the front flat area of the pan-Don't push against that directly-spread the load. I use a 2 foot long ram hydraulic jack. You can use a regular short bottle jack on blocks to support the engine while the front mount is off. Simple and fast. Bob
  23. Only ticky noise I hear is probably the heat riser shaft and bushing possibly leaking some exhaust gasses? Sounds like the valves are ok to me -no tailpipe idle miss! Good job.
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