Dan Hiebert

I do, for the old cars, not the new ones. Both a spreadsheet in which I list what needs to be done, and a paper log (simple notebooks) that I keep with the service manuals. I too, am sometimes surprised with how long ago I worked on some part of the car. I record costs and sources of parts and materials, but I don't keep receipts. Been dealing with logs my whole adult life, first job after high school was with a crop dusting company in south Texas, not necessarily a "had to", but a "beneficial to" deal. Keeping track of fields worked, chemicals used, and aircraft maintenance made the job easier for me. Then the Army ('nuff said), and 32 years in Border Patrol. Keeping logs (records) in law enforcement is nothing but beneficial, especially as you move up the ranks and become responsible for more and more aspects of the mission. I had thought I would divorce myself of that habit when I retired, but I still feel compelled to do it.

This thread is making me rethink the Sisson choke (or lack thereof) on our D24. When we still lived in Horizon City (El Paso), TX shortly after we got the car, I was having trouble with the Sisson choke. It wasn't allowing the choke to open when I'd try to restart the car once it was warmed up. I'd have to have someone physically hold the choke open to start it when hot. Didn't know anything about adjusting it, the need for the gasket (didn't have one), etc., so I just put in a manual choke that has worked flawlessly since. While I'm a firm believer in don't- fix-what-aint-broke, I'm also one to giggle like a school girl when I get something original to work like it's supposed to. I may venture down the path of reinstalling it...for giggles.

Here's wishing you a speedy recovery. My wife and kids have all had bouts with shingles. They were not pleasant to be around during the affliction. So far, I have dodged that bullet.

Could be a bad ground with the smoking generator, been there. Rebuilt the generator on our Terraplane a while back, went for a test drive and after a bit was being followed by smoke and that burning clutch smell. When I checked everything, I discovered that I had not cleaned the ground connection to the generator well enough after painting the unit. Remedied and no problem since. These 6v systems require really good, clean connections.

Going to Ace Hardware up here is pointless. I had to figure out which stores carry what, sometimes I have to make multiple stops for a project, seems they conspire to not all stock the same stuff so you have to go to store X for this type of item, store Y for that. I kinda already know what I'll be able to find up here, too, and when to head to the internet. Lowe's in Presque Isle (45 miles north) tends to be productive, and there's a Fastenal up there, too. About the only thing I miss from when we lived near Buffalo, NY is the Valu Home Centers, they stocked gobs of obscure hardware.

Was gonna refer you to the Samba forum, but I see you've already checked in there. Good site, but members can get rather snarky sometimes.

Welcome to the Forum! You've come to the right place. Assuming your '39 Plymouth is original, then yes, it is a positive ground electrical system, and 6v. I can't add more than the already noted sage advice. Emphasis on patience, I've seen a few folks ruin an otherwise good long dormant motor by getting it running, or tryin to get it running, with no TLC beforehand. Kindly note that we like photos whenever possible ?

Insurance companies and State motor vehicle regulations are often different. And every State is different, as well. Best thing to do is to (shudder) call your local DMV office for your State's requirements, and your insurance provider for theirs. You may still have to force common sense onto whomever you talk to, though. But, the State cannot force you to have insurance on a car you don't own, nor can your provider, regardless of the State you live in, or the provider you use.

Nice! Last time I did the toe-in on our D24 it was because we put new tires on it, (not a reason to do it, just seemed like a good idea at the time), so I just used the seam that was still quite visible down the center of the tire. (I also "cheated" a bit to attain the zero cost, I have turntables, but they were given to me.) Try as I might, I couldn't get it to 0, but did get it to that 1/16".

Welcome to the Forum! Nice find, I'm partial to D24's myself. Regarding the "slipping" issue, check your clutch adjustment as well. Low FD fluid usually manifests as the car's performance being more "majestic" (sluggish) than normal. In my experience, slipping in high gear is usually either the clutch out of adjustment (free play), or as mentioned already, a contaminated clutch surface. I would echo not to mess with the FD unit initially, other than ensuring the fluid level is correct.

Yes, rebuilders often painted the engines in their "own" colors. I.e., Sears rebuilds (marketed as replacements) were a red color. And Chrysler products dealers often obtained replacement engines from other companies. Just me, but I have doubts that any original flat 6 MoPar engine was other than silver. I've never seen an original engine that wasn't. Although I imagine there are some quirks out there for various reasons. I also take "experts" with a grain of salt. I know many that are mistaken on some things, but because they are "experts", they refuse to acknowledge it.

Ditto, same thing happened to our D24 last month. (Except for the little old lady thing.) Just fine first half of the cruise, at some point on the return trip the left rear got mushy. Took it to a tire shop where they found right away it was the valve. Tubeless tires on ours, but that affliction will have the same result with tubes.

I don't see any "disagreement", just more information ?

Scary thought is that there is a good chunk of the population clamoring for just this sort of thing.

As long as it is still open to the crankcase/atmosphere, it won't affect the car's operation per se. Its purpose is to provide the outlet for ventilating the crankcase of gasses - most importantly, volatile ones - the intake is the vented cap on the oil fill tube. It is much more efficient of the tube is there. Diverts the crankcase gasses from venting directly in front of the firewall and getting into the cabin, and the tube's outlet location at the bottom of the car uses the increased draft between the car and road when the car is moving to suck air through the system and get those gasses out. As JBNeal points out, you can make a positive crankcase ventilation system with relative ease using what you have left of the draft tube. There's at least a couple threads in the Forum covering it, they'd be older. If you don't desire to put in PCV, then you should ensure the/a draft tube is installed, more for safety than operation.

I have a 1949 Motors Manual. Its my go-to (actually only) reference for our Terraplane. I have yet to make much of an effort to get a Hudson/Terraplane service manual, because the Motors one has met my requirements.

Nice job! I'm enjoying the progress you're making on your D24. Where did you get your rocker trim? Or is it original that you restored (or was in that good of condition)?

I appreciate the work, but not necessarily the theme. To each, their own.

An update...although I don't know yet if I've resolved the issue. I ended up dropping the tranny anyway. Leaks like a sieve so I'm replacing the gaskets and seals. Cut the center of the crossmember out and just fabbed up something simple to hold it when I put it back. Welded plates onto the piece I cut out, that will be bolted through the pieces still on the car. The car won't be romped on, so it should last. Anyway, the shifting assembly on the transmission is in good shape, no issues with the interlocking doo-dads. What I did find, though, was that the transmission had a lot of metal pieces in it, 64 years worth it looks like. Quite a bit in the synchronizer gear assembly, though they don't appear to be from the synchronizer itself, it is in good shape. When I first got the car, I drained a mere pint or so of oil out of the tranny. No idea how long it had been driven that low. The reverse and low gears have quite a bit of galling on the ends of the gears, not enough that I'm going to replace them, tho. The synchronizer and low/reverse selector sleeve were packed with a metal/oil slurry and some chunks. I suspect centrifugal force was putting this stuff where it interfered with allowing the transmission to move from 1st to 2nd, perhaps why it would shift when stationary, but not when moving. Just enough junk so it wouldn't affect it at idle, but once revving up it did. Right now just a theory, because I haven't found any other issues...yet. I just got the tranny apart today, still gotta clean and reassemble it, then it'll be another week or so before I can get the car on the ground to test drive it.

Peruse the Links Directory below the header. That'll give you a good idea of what's out there and where to get it, and you'll also discover some rabbit holes to other sites that will help.

...isn't that supposed to be a milk crate?

Thanks, Keith, I really enjoyed that!

I've a friend up here that has one of them Ural motorcycles - with sidecar (do they even come without one?) He gets the same ration of poop for having it, but also the same request to haul other riders' stuff when they do road trips. He's also the only one still riding in December (a feat up here), and starting to ride again in April (more of a feat).

...there's a slight chance that I may think I'm offended...

Snow tire installation/removal is still a seasonal tradition up here. Not snow tires per se, but studded tires. Most folks buy an extra set of rims for their studded tires, and some of the tire shops will store whichever tires aren't on your car for you as well. The storage fee is included in the swap-out fee. When you can put them on is kind of hit-or-miss, depends on Mother Nature, but they have to be off by May 1st.