Adam H P15 D30

Unless you are building a 100 point restoration, there is no reason to stay 6 volt and fuss with inverters for your 12 volt needs. Just convert it to 12 volts and be done. Adam

I understand replicating Dad's car but the 39 headlights look so cool without the conversion. My first car was a 39 Plym coupe just like yours. It was my only car, I drove it to school, to the lake, to the drive-in . If it didn't run I either bummed a ride or took the bus. It almost always got me where I needed to go and this was in the late 80's, so they are reliable. This was after I unstuck the motor too. It eventually got a 413 / A833 but only because I wanted to go faster. Adam

One of the most overlooked part of a carb rebuild, checking for flatness, glad you got it sorted out. I remember having to hammer Quadrajet upper halves flat because of over tightening the front mounting bolts. Adam

Make sure to bump the compression up, a lot. Those were around 7:1 stock. Sometimes the factory claimed higher but still were about 7:1. Bumping it to 9.5 + will be a huge power improvement. Hemi heads can handle even higher without detonation. Adam

Is your current lug pattern 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5? If you look for early Falcon or Mustang 8” rear axles with tapered axle tubes, the price is low because of the small tubes but plenty strong for a flathead. I put one in my 49.

Looks like the streetrod crew got ahold of it. Has it been clipped? What radiator is in it? /6 is a good engine, not much on power but it will run forever. You are correct though, better than a SBC. the dash isn’t too bad, better colors or 1 color would make a huge improvement. Servicing it wouldn’t be much different than a mid 60’s Valiant.

Is there a reason you don’t want a draw through? A lot easier and the fuel cools the charge air. Adam

Hello 55, Hope this topic is as successful as your driver topic. Here's mine but I think most people have read it by now... My final post was an evaluation of the finished product. And a picture of the finished product.

I used a 2001 Explorer 8.8 in my current build (the 47). 4.1 Trac Lock Sorry, don't have the measurements handy. I also used the factory Explorer sway bar, mounts and end links. Made for a clean install

An Explorer 8.8 will plenty strong. You will shell that T5 long before the 8.8. I’d look at a T56 instead of the T5. An 8” wheel might be a little too wide without frame narrowing. I have whipped the snot out of 8.8’s and it’s impressive how strong they are. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Adam

Here is a better shot after I got mine off... Easier that looking at the photo on my cell phone.

Hello Paul, Glad I could be of help and you have a nice Suburban there! I really enjoyed our conversation last week and be careful with your knees!!!! Hope to meet up again when I'm in the neighborhood. Adam

New points? Sometimes new points have weak springs and float at higher rpm. Adam

I'm saying to try to run it a little low and see if it slips more, especially at idle. Can't see and inch or 2 low causing any damage but worth a try.... I also heard the ISO 32 fluid is thicker than the original stuff. Then there was the ISO 22???? hard to find stuff?? Sorry my memory isn't what it used to be. Does the engine seem to have enough power once you get past the stumble?

Been watching this thread progress but I have to wonder if you put the wrong fluid or too much in you FD unit. My 49 drops about ~100 RPM when I release the clutch at a stop and as far as I know the fluid has never been changed. My idle is set about 500 RPM unloaded. Maybe drain an inch of fluid out of the FD unit and give it another go? Or try thinner fluid? Adam

Factory fuel pump with 2 Carter/Webers

Excellent mod. I did exactly that when I converted my AMP gauge to a volt gauge.

Contact Wayfarer on this forum or TR Waters on the H.A.M.B.

If you end up swapping the R10 and want to sell it, let me know. Plenty of 11 second Mustangs run T-5’s. 330 lb/ft of torque capability will be plenty for your HEMI and probably more than the R10 can handle. Are you racing it or driving it with the occasional beat session? The tail housing swap is easy and doesn’t change any durability. I have a Ford R11 on a T-18 trans if your interested for parts. Adam

I also agree to go to the GM HEI module. You will get a hotter spark, better dwell control and best of all, you can get rid of that troublesome ballast resistor. If not, like most MOPAR people, keep a spare resistor in you glove box. Adam

If you’re driving on So Cal freeways, put disc brakes on it, save the car and possibly your life. After a few scary shoulder slides in my 49, I put disc brakes and modern drum brakes (rear) so I can be safer on my No Cal freeways. Night and day difference, still not where modern cars are but much closer.

The key words are in bold. These brakes are really good right up until they're not. Without the tool they will only be close but never right.

California is probably in the top 5 globally in regards to the amount of hot rods or modified vehicles on the road, probably #1... I cannot remember the last time I heard of a poorly modified vehicle causing an issue or an accident on the road because of it's modifications. There were a few on the HAMB regarding aftermarket Ford cast I-beam axles failing but that is a purchased and supposed engineered product (by someone with an Engineering Degree no less), not a garage modification. Believe me, if a vehicle caused an accident here because of being modified it would be all over the news! I have also seen some really scary setups particularly with subframes or frame swaps, but no wrecks. Most of these setups have been on the road for a long time too. We also have some of the cr@ppiest roads and the worst traffic in the country here so they are not babied. So, I stand by my remarks saying these gommerment mandated inspections are nothing more than extortion and control. The data is here in California to back it up too. The inability to see it for what it is and to defend it is shows how complacent with control society has become. I can understand some sort of inspection in salt states because the cars just rot away from under you and I can even see the value in bi-annual smog checks but the fact that some idiot with a piece of paper (degree) who has probably never lifted a welding torch or had a grinder eat his thumb up telling me how to build a chassis is absurd. I've been installing suspensions, pro streeting chassis, subframing vehicles for 25 years without failure and WOW I don't have a metallurgy degree or mechanical engineering degree, Why? Because it's NOT rocket science. Andy- In NO way am I trying to single you out and I truly apologize if it comes off that way. You have been doing this a long time also and do some top notch work and have a beautiful MOPAR. I especially like the early V8 you installed and proven over many miles of enjoyment. Adam EDIT: I certainly did not intend the above post to be political in any way. I also did not intend to single anyone out. That said, this is a debate thread as the title says, correct?

Yeah, I’ve heard horror stories about those so called certified technicians. As much as California has f-upped policies, I am so thankful we are not subjected to the inspection extortion by some 25 year old punk working on flat rate.

Upper breather hose would be representative of our oil fill tube. Breather chamber would represent our road draft tube