Adam H P15 D30

Not sure of the exact ratio but 2nd gear is slower in FD equipped vehicles. 1-2 is close, really close; 2-3 is really wide.

If you run the dual intake and decide to go with Langdon's dual Carter Weber carbs, you could buy a dashpot for a ~1982 Escort that bolts to the carbs. My FD works OK without the dashpots on my Carter Webers but I may add them down the road.

Dad and I are kicking around a trip to the NSRA Rocky Mountain Nats in Pueblo CO. They would certainly get changed before that trip. Seriously though, if I had a fast second in the trans it would be much better but I have the FD second gear. Sooner or later I'll find a Plymouth transmission laying around and have my fast second. Then the gears would be more tolerable because the split between second and third is the biggest problem. To be honest, other than a couple hours of driving with the new intake and exhaust, I really haven't reevaluated the gears with the new found bottom end. Unless I stumble on the new gears soon, I'll get to thoroughly test that in a few months. It sure is nice on the freeways though which is where most of my commuting is.

Gears are too tall. Better with the intake change but I'm going to re-gear it some day, but the price was right on the rear axle and the 3.90 stock gears sucked. In the picture I had 235/75/15 tires on it, now I have 235/60/15 tires and it's tolerable. Really nice on the interstates at 70-75 mph though. The rises on the interstates here don't slow it down but when I took it to Tahoe over Donner summit, my pops went around me because it was slow and I was gassing him out... He drives an LT-1 powered 47 Ford. I think with the shorter tires, 3.25 gears would be perfect.

I usually drive my 49 in the summer months. Not because we have harsh winters but I devote the rainy months for mods etc. I commute 70 miles of interstate daily and use the 49 2-3 days per week. Stock flathead with duals, 3spd FD and 8" Ford with 3.00 gears. I've driven the 47 with the hemi for a couple of summers but now it finally going to get finished over the next 1-2 years. As much as I HATE to say it, that car is turning into more of a streetrod with AC, PB, PS, Auto-OD, leather and heated seats. It's also a money pit, but aren't they all? Adam

Nope, it's bolted down and will not come off for a coating. Paint is fine. Going to be a while before I drive it again, trying to get dad to paint it, windows out getting new felt.

You could buy 1 aluminum HEMI head loaded, ready to bolt on for a few hundred more. Ouch, I would think since these heads are much simpler to cast they would be well below 1k. Could buy a pair of Furd Flathead heads for a few hundred more. Is the market strong enough to justify that price?

Depends on where you live. As much as I hate the high prices in CA, I’m sure glad we don’t have those ridiculous inspections. Either way, unless you build a complete stocker, he might be on the hook for it. What a money grab

Welcome to California where everything is expensive.

Rotor placement looks good to me

Who cares! Building a car is supposed to be fun. Take your time and enjoy the build and all of its challenges. Don't let them get you down A lot of doom and gloom here lately.

That’s what I was thinking. On the other hand, I had to take about .050 off my castle nuts to get the cotter pins in with my Rusty Hope kit. My races were installed when I bought my rotors and I double checked them so I know they were driven home so it does happen. My rotors were as close as yours.

Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement! Big difference down low! It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 2000 rpm and punch it: good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. Adam

Don, That looks just like the Rusty Hope kit. Also looks very different than the Scarbird kit. O.P. have you installed the caliper to see where the rotor placement lands?

Does Scarbird use an adapter slid on the spindle? Does the spindle nut go all the way on with the rotor and bearings installed? is that a slip on rotor?

I think he meant Fatman dropped uprights for the stock suspension

I machined my housing in a drill press with sand paper. Took about 15 minutes... No special tools required I also swapped the Chrysler ignition box for a GM HEI module from a late 70's engine eliminating the ballast resistor and better dwell control, smaller footprint.

Do a search for the Slant 6 distributor conversion here and other sites. MUCH better choice than Petronics and all parts are off the shelf at the local O'Rileys / NAPA. Plus you use a GM HEI module that does a much better job of controlling spark and duration than the Petronics. I THINK 55 Fargo did a really good write up here and on the HAMB but the pictures were lost to the Photobucket scandle. Also, check your vacuum advance to see if it is any good, if it's bad (probably) might as well do the conversion, I did mine for ~100.00 or so. @55 Fargo Spitfire Was it you that did the write up on this? If so, do you have the pictures? I used this write up a few years ago to put my Slant 6 distributor in my 49 and it was very helpful.

Just an FYI, the 518 will require floor modifications. It is a biiiig looong thing.

Good read here. Falconvan did an LS swap and had a very detailed thread on his build. He did a top notch job on this car. He also did a swap on a 49 coupe. Started with an SHO motor but ended up with a small block later. Another top notch build Remember, there only needs to be 1 perfect example of a stocker. The rest can be hotrodded.

Yes, please by all means simplify what you meant. Oh in case you forgot I’ll repost it below so you can break it down for all of us..... I didn’t see any restrictions on what GTK allows as modified.

I always believe one should build their cars however they want and to hell with what anyone else says. That being said, a Chevy and been done, redone and overdone. Everybody and their brother drops a 350/350 combo into all makes and then thinks they have something special. I modify every car I own so I'm not giving you the "purist" point of view either, and it doesn't have to have a Chevy in it to be a daily driver. For a few bucks more you could drop the 270 in it Plymouthy was talking about and be just as reliable but the cool factor goes to a new high. I really enjoyed dropping a 440 in a pre-war Chevy coupe and sticking it to the SBC crowd though. You are in the right place and just because you're dropping a V8 in your car doesn't make you unwelcome here. I completely disagree with anyone who tells you to go to the HAMB, like your modified car is not welcome here. Read the P15-D24 banner, I think some people have never read the description to the right. Adam

Build it

Oh and he said the Volvo calipers were 2 piston not 4 but the rotors are spot on for Volvo.

So, talking to dad it seemed it was a hub and rotor assembly with bearings, races etc. He bought a 3/16 spacer from JC Whitney that went against the inner bearing. Big difference from what the original poster showed, is he did have to make a plate for the caliper to bolt to the spindle. It wasn’t cast into the caliper. I showed him the picture of the caliper on this thread and he thinks it MIGHT be early mustang but that’s a guess. Early mustang was a popular conversion in the late 70’s as he remembers. This was 30 years ago on a Ford spindle. I do remember flying to Kansas from California as a kid to pick up the parts. Hope this helps, Adam