Adam H P15 D30

Here is what it looked like with the stock control arms in place. Note: Not factory GM wheels Narrow control arms Hard to tell but I gained about an inch on each side. Since the O.P. asked for any help, here it is after finishing the welding. Radiator support mod. Narrow arms installed Like I said earlier, it is a fair amount of work and lots of planning in advance. @knuckleharley Do you have pictures of yours? I would love to see how you did it with essentially the same clip. Thanks

Track width on my clip was about 3" wider than stock. I suppose I could've made up the difference with wheel offset.... I am also not sure if GM made different width Gen 2 Camaro clips but I don't think so. Centering in the wheel well is a function of careful measuring before cutting. I did my initial cuts and welding with the body in place, removed the body later to finish the job so my fenders were on it when I set the clip in place. Not sure if this makes sense or not? Adam

I'm not advocating either path but I have both. My 47 has a GM front clip and my 49 has a factory IFS. Here are a few of the PROS to adding a modern suspension: 1. Going from king pins to ball joints ++++++ 2. Power steering if you want without the kludge of a Cavalier R&P 3. Better Geometry for highway use (ability to have more caster and split, anti dive characteristics......) 4. Getting the steering box out of the engine compartment (engine swaps) 5. You can set your vehicle ride height to exactly where you want it with the control arms riding in the stock position 6. Correct wheel position (centered in fender) Not all vehicles have this issue CONS of a clip, PROS for keeping stock setup: 1. If you don't know what you are doing you will ruin your frame. This is not for the novice or faint of heart. I've seen some SCARY clip jobs... 2. Don't underestimate the amount of fabrication involved. Clips could end a lot of projects prematurely. Don't believe the hot rod shows on TV that make this stuff look easy, it isn't. 3. The stock front suspension is pretty darn good, especially after adding disc brakes and shock mount mod. 4. You can add power steering (a lot of sacrifices doing so). I am biased here cause I hate R&P steering. These aren't sports cars 5. Some locations that do annual vehicle inspections will balk at these type of modifications. 6. Track width of some clips is too wide. I had to install Fatman narrow control arms on my 71 Camaro clip in my 47 = $$$$. If you do change the suspension, I agree with using a Dakota or GM over the Mustang II. Either way you're going to have to lop the frame rails off at the firewall so why would you put a Pinto front end in with R&P? FWIW (free opinions are worth what you paid for) Adam

Because it’s not 70 years old.

If you are keeping the single pot master cylinder, I would use a Midland Ross booster.

@oldasdirt Be careful, at least Don knows how to change a tail shaft and extension housing to correct shifter location unlike your so called “shop” Now go ahead and hit the report button and tattle to the moderators, it needed to be said. Again, apologies to 55Fargo

If memory serves, the crank in my HEMI took about ~30ft/lbs to turn with all 8 pistons installed. Are you sure is wasn’t 35in/lbs? 35ft/lbs is tooooo much unless the pistons and rings are installed.

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Please re-read my post, I think you missed my point but whatever. The "whatever" 4spds you refer to I called 833's. I would think the 833's for 70's 318's and 60's 6cyls would not be in high demand and wouldn't be too hard to find but I never looked.... You are correct though, overdrive conversions to get to 2800 rpm @70 are widely accepted and praised here but you are already there with a 1:1 final transmission ratio and 3.23 gears... Driving my 49 car, which is lighter and lower than yours, with a mostly stock 230 and 3.00 gears with 26" tall rear tires proves to me that 2800 @70 is probably the sweet spot for our flatheads... without being complete DOGS. I don't mean this to knock down your thread in any way and since my alternative point of view seems to be disrupting it, I will not ask the hard questions any more. Though I am interested in the final result with either your 228 or 265 (hopefully the 228 to compare apples to apples) after the trans, rear axle and driveshaft replacement to obtain your O/D.

That's a lot of changes and expense just to have a 4spd O/D. Have you thought of changing to a non O/D 4spd and not having to mess with all the other stuff? Even if you had to purchase another trans (I understand you already have the O/D 833) I think it will still be cheaper... What's your time worth? Better gear spread with the non O/D too Look at the top 833 6cyl choice in your previous attachment. Same 3.09 1st to get you moving but the 2-3-4 splits are much better. Keep you 3.23 rear axle and motor on.... Adam

I've been running an electric fan for about 5 years now after my engine fan spit a blade off. I use a $10.00 coolant switch from NAPA and relay that's only energized when the ignition is on. Not sure about the power gains from ditching the fan but it sure is a lot quieter. Like said above, rarely runs at speed, cycles on and off around town...

For the most part the closer the gear ratios are, the better the driveability. To each their own The T5 you mention above is the one that should be avoided, there are a gazillion others out there with many ratios so find one that suits your needs. This isn't a one size fits all situation. You can even mix and match between manufacturers which makes the possibilities almost endless. I wasn't knocking your 833 data, choice or install in any way, just raising a point or 2. I can't agree with you on your T5 quality statement. There are many, many out there and they will go hundreds of thousands of miles so the high quality of the product has been proven over and over. Ruggedness? How rugged does it have to be to hold up to 150HP and 200Lb/ft of torque? I would think a singer sewing machine would be up to the task...

I completely understand wanting to use the most robust parts possible but T5's lived in 10 second Mustangs. Also, how tough of a trans do we need behind our flatheads? I would still be concerned with that 1-2 gear split of the 833. Reminds me of my 2-3 split on my fluid drive 3 speed trans, I think that why George Asche installs a "fast second" in a lot of 3 speeds, closer gear splits.

That is a very large 1-2 split and may present more of an issue than your final drive ratio. A 5 speed would put another ratio between...

Late to the party but my 47 was titled with the body number in the door jamb. My 49 is titled with the engine / frame number but if memory serves it makes a reference to the body number. I have never gone through the process in CA but my father has many times and it wasn't difficult. VIN verification was necessary and the car needs to out of the system for several years. Much worse if the car is still in the system. For once I think CA is one of the easier states to do this in.

My intake is plumbed before the heater valve. Starts warming up within minutes of starting a cold engine. I'm really not concerned with the short time it takes to warm but the fact that it stays warm. It is in no way dependent on the thermostat or heater valve setting.

Like you said I'm not concerned with icing when the engine is cold or warming up. As Don pointed out it happens with a warm engine just as easily and it doesn't have to be cold out. Therefore using coolant is the perfect remedy. My intake will be a steady 170 degrees or a little more, and it has everything to do with modern engines, same principle. I'm not so sure insulating is the answer as it is cooled from the inside out. So far I haven't run it long enough to know if there even is a problem but I'm absolutely glad I built coolant heat into the intake because is would be a pain to add it later. Thanks Don for explaining it so well and for your service.

I never stated I expierenced any icing but I did expierence an ice cold intake. Mind that my intake is thin steel and not a thick casting. Does that make a difference? Who knows. If my intake is cold and I live where it's damp and foggy part of the year, icing could happen. Since I was building the intake from scratch anyway it was no issue adding warmth to it. Sure Tom talks about heat but others do also and there is nothing to lose by warming it, only gains. I had planned to warm my intake regardless of what all the "experts" said, pros and cons. I'm sure they all work fine unwarmed right up until they don't. Every manufacturer heats them for this reason, maybe the aok boys know something Mopar, Ford, GM, Toyota, Nissan, etc engineers don't know?? But I do know this, the auto manufacturers don't do anything unless they absolutely have to. Hell, some manufacturers even heat the PCV valve for icing, and not only in cold climate areas. So once again, I built this thing from a pile of steel tubing, why wouldn't I add heat? To find out I needed it later after it was done would have been a PITA. Same question to those that have the provisions in their intakes, why not use it? There is no downside but a tad bit of plumbing. OP again. You will probably never need heat until the one time you do...

Like I said earlier, I have a thin steel tubing manifold not a thicker casting. Also my carbs sit 6" above the headers so no heat transfer there. What you say may work well with a casting but before I ran the hot water to my intake, it was cold to the touch when the engine was at 180 degrees after 20 minutes of run time. Anyway now that we are completely off topic, the OP probably won't need any heat anyway with the stock exhaust manifold right next to the intake. Edit: Ambient Temp was about 50 degrees.

I'm sure your cast aluminum intake is much better at transferring and retaining heat than the thin steel intake I built. Before I ran the water line it got cold to the touch the entire time the engine was running.

I did that with my ammeter, not because of the 12v (ammeter doesn't care) but because of the 70a alternator. Besides I like volt meters better.

Replace the wiper motor and heater motor with 12v equivalents, put a Runtz resistor on the fuel gauge and call it good. I did the gauge replacement to modern guts on my ammeter and though it works very well, it was a pain in the @$$

You can see the front connection here

Fargo might be right with the iron exhaust manifold so close to the intake heating might not be necessary. With a header or a tube intake it becomes necessary. I used 5/16 lines Teed into the heater hoses, wish I had a better picture but you can see them. Works with the heater on or off. I have better pictures but this site's 3mb limit kills it

You can run separate smaller hoses so it's not dependent on the heater being on. I did this on my 49 intake using 5/16 hose and it works well