Adam H P15 D30

I put a 'T' in my heater hose connection. There is always flow through a 5/16 line warming the intake.

Mine kicks on at 185 off at 175. Many temps available though.

Old thread but I'll bite.... This is all you need plus a relay. Very reliable as almost all manufactures use them.

Try these people for your windshield. http://www.streetrodglass.com/classic_car_windshields_truck_auto.jsp Adam

I removed the rubber flap from the sheet metal disk you’re holding. Put the metal part back in and reassemble. Adam

It's a BIIIIGGGGG transmission, so cut your floors accordingly.

Mine was from a 91 or 92 Dakota 318 V8. The reason I suggest Quality Engineered Components for the adapter is my torque converter bolts were a pain in the a$$ with the Wilcap, much easier with QEC one, plus he can answer any HEMI questions you may have. http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/ With your 276 HEMI, you do not have to do the internal mods I chose to do. I've been building transmissions for 25+ years so I can't leave them alone, lol. If you end up with a 2 wire A518 with lock up converter, that's perfectly fine. Several aftermarket places make very very simple kits for the lock up function. Adam EDIT: With a 276, I would also be on the lookout for an A500 O/D. Basically the 904 version instead of the 727 version the 518 is and smaller sized. It should handle anything your 276 will put out. Just make sure you get the correct bellhousing. These transmissions come with a .69 overdrive, so unless you're running short tires, I'd up the gear ratio to at the very least 3.73+ 1 more EDIT. Check your torque converter bolt circle. Make sure it matches the flexplate bolt circle, Ma Mopar had 2 bolt patterns for the torque converters.

Yeah, I’ve read his stuff before.

I prefer the electronic slant 6 distributor mod with an HEI module. Better dwell control and spark than a pertronics and if anything goes wrong, every parts store carries the stuff. Adam

@oldasdirt That may be true and 3 carbs might not be too much but it’s always better to be a little under carbed than over carbed on the street. Adam

I put a Dakota A518 behind my Chrysler HEMI with a Wilcap adapter, I think the adapters are the same. If I did it again I would've used Quality Engineered Components (Wayfarer here) adapter for a few specific reasons. I used a 92 Dakota 518 without converter lock up and put big block TF727 direct and forward drums in it, Changed the intermediate bad apply lever to a 4.6 ratio, put the early intermediate band piston in from the TF727. Did a few valve body mods and installed a home made restrictor in the front drum apply circuit. Easy trans to work on except for the O/D unit, need a press to get that apart. Nice thing about the early 518's is it only takes 1 switch for O/D, no other mods and you can use any 727 torque converter you want. Adam

That's the way my 49 is titled in CA, came with a title when I bought it. My 47 is titled off the body serial number by my choice because it didn't come with a title.

My Wayfarer does not have a damper but I also read somewhere that a lot of Fluid Drive cars didn't come with them, but who knows.

A lot of talk lately about the cr@ppy foreign made points on several forums. Even some on the most traditional forums are citing defeat and changing to electronic ignition. Adam

Sorry for the confusion, I think your master cylinder faces opposite of mine (forward) in your 39...

Rich, just curious, was it the residual pressure valve? Rubber flap thingy that goes in just before the back bolt? I’m probably not being clear, lol. Adam

I used a 30A relay to power my electronic ignition, and vacuum pump that activates with the ignition in the RUN position only. I used a second 30A relay that powers everything else on the ACC side of the ignition switch. ACC is also hot in RUN but not vise-versa. FWIW, Adam

It will bolt in. If the 49 has stock running gear, it is a Fluid Drive. If someone changed it to a standard clutch (non FD) use your D24 trans and FD unit. Both crankshafts should be 8 bolt but if the engine not original to the 49, who knows.... If you wish to keep it numbers matching, rebuild or store the stocker while you enjoy the car with the 49 engine in it. Adam

Paul, Mine had lock washers, no locktite. How come the overdrive isn't going in? Adam

It's a Midland Ross brake booster. can theoretically mount it anywhere and they are still available.

I do have to say those manifolds look really cool and kudos to you for casting your own!!! Hotrodding at its finest! 1 question, will the rear carb clear the firewall or heater box (if there is one)? The Carter/Webers are so tune-able that someone probably could get 3 to work well. Keep us updated on how this works out. I for one will be following. My home-made intake but not as cool as yours...

Langdon's Stovebolt has the Carter/Weber 32's originally used on the 1.6 and 1.8L Escorts. Work great in duals, I still think 3 is too much. Adam

On a 40 Ford, I used a triple 97 manifold on an 8BA slightly modified engine. I ended up blocking off the center carb and ran on the 2 outers, ran much, much better that way. 3 2bbls were too much, but sure looked cool! FWIW, Adam

The wiring harness is probably junk anyway.... Unless you are going to a full restoration why keep the antiquated 6v system? You have to use a specialized wiring harness to handle the increased amperage and instead of one of the many 12v harnesses and FUSES that are manufactured for people doing what you are doing. I did the 6v thing for a few years on my 49, but I like using it for the quick trip to the store, over to a buddy's house 1/2 mile away. Using the heater and lights on short trips during winter nights and I got tired of plugging the damn trickle charger in all the time. Some of that could be solved by a 6v alternator as Don and others pointed out but why? You're changing the harness anyway... Remember, the factory harness has no fuses and 1 circuit breaker for the headlamps. As Worden 18 points out, transistorized ignition is available for 6v systems but Pertronics is a specialized component and if it fails out in Timbuktu, you will be waiting a few days for a replacement unless you carry a spare or spare points to revert back. I am not a huge fan of these type of components on drivers, better to find off-the-shelf solutions for ignition systems and other mods that is readily available at NAPA or other stores. Unfortunately that almost always requires the vehicle be up to "industry standard" hence 12v. There is a reason the manufactures switched to 12v in the mid 50's. This is one man's opinion and should be taken as such, Adam

Ahhh, don't let the nay-sayers get you down. A little work now to upgrade to 12v and a lot less headache down the road, but your radio will not work when changing polarity unless it is reworked to operate on neg. ground. AMP gauge doesn't care how many volts go through it, a $15.00 RUNTZ resistor for the fuel gauge and you're good to go. If you have a trans with solenoids, I ran an R10 overdrive solenoids for years on 12v with no issue. If you drive it a lot and have to change a light bulb in the middle of a trip, 12v bulbs are everywhere! Adam