Adam H P15 D30

Build it

Oh and he said the Volvo calipers were 2 piston not 4 but the rotors are spot on for Volvo.

So, talking to dad it seemed it was a hub and rotor assembly with bearings, races etc. He bought a 3/16 spacer from JC Whitney that went against the inner bearing. Big difference from what the original poster showed, is he did have to make a plate for the caliper to bolt to the spindle. It wasn’t cast into the caliper. I showed him the picture of the caliper on this thread and he thinks it MIGHT be early mustang but that’s a guess. Early mustang was a popular conversion in the late 70’s as he remembers. This was 30 years ago on a Ford spindle. I do remember flying to Kansas from California as a kid to pick up the parts. Hope this helps, Adam

55, if your asking me, better double check on the model of Volvo. Not that I doubt my dad’s memory but he’s no spring chicken. Adam

Checked with dad and though his memory isn’t what it used to be he told me he used 70’s Volvo 122s brakes. Adam

Volvo’s had solid front rotors with 5 on 4.5 bolt circle. Dad had that very setup on his 35 Ford in the late 80’s. Adam

I don't think these engines move enough air to make a crossover do anything besides change the tone. Adam

Did you mix a Spicer type ujoint with the Detroit joint? As I understand it, that's a no-no.

If you don't plan on hammering the engine all the time, cross drilling the crank is unnecessary. These engines are known for good oiling characteristics and long life without mods.... Maybe a full flow filtering system???? Maybe not either. Adam

Sure looks like Volvo. Popular swap on pre-war Fords years ago.... Adam

I’m not sure if you were referring to my post or not but modern FI makes it more of "street rod". Certainly not a hotrod. A SBC makes it a belly button street rod or a cookie cutter street rod. I am also very biased, LOL Adam

Still have both the front brakes and drums, also still have the rear axle (drum to drum). I would like to see it go to someone else besides the scrapper, but I've tripped over them 1 too many times and I'm going to send them off to the dumps very soon.

I've always felt that loading an old car up with modern computer junk somehow takes the old car away. A SBC in anything is soooooo boring and has been done many times over, why not do something a little different? Old school stuff is right at home in an old school car. Carbs and distributors served their owners for many trouble free miles and parts are very easy to come by. If I feel like driving something with F.I., air bags, smog devices, I drive my F150, if I want to take a step back in time I drive a hotrod and I try not to mix the two. My point is to figure out what you want in an OLD car, If it's a fuel injected something that gets 25mpg so be it, if it's to be a "hotrod" better fond something "hot" to put in it, if it's a cool cruiser, better find something "cool" to put in it. If it's a commuter that you want to maximize economy, safety and comfort, park it and drive a modern car. Adam

I used the Rusty Hope Kit, a search here will find all the information you need. The kit works fantastic and the instructions were good. The hardest part was tapping the spindles, but it wasn't that hard at all as they are pretty soft metal. There was something I didn't like about the Scarebird kit that made me choose Rusty Hope but I can't remember what it was. BTW, when I had an installation question, I emailed him and he responded within hours... top notch! I am using my original M/C and it works good. I removed the internal residual pressure valve and installed a 2lb front and 10lb rear residual pressure valves in line. I'll bet the Scarebird kit would work the same if you go that route. I have since purchased a dual M/C but it's not high on my list to install at this point because the Dodge stops so well as it is. Adam

I agree with the above posters that you probably have too much carb. That said, you stated they were brand new? There was a recent thread on the H.A.M.B. about someone who bought new 97’s that were manufactured in China. He never could get them to run even marginally well. Ended up putting a used OE 97 on and his problems went away. Adam

Sorry, I only have 5 lug drums. Adam

I'd keep the stock front suspension before I'd install Pinto suspension. 2nd choice would be a Dakota clip. Adam

Here is what it looked like with the stock control arms in place. Note: Not factory GM wheels Narrow control arms Hard to tell but I gained about an inch on each side. Since the O.P. asked for any help, here it is after finishing the welding. Radiator support mod. Narrow arms installed Like I said earlier, it is a fair amount of work and lots of planning in advance. @knuckleharley Do you have pictures of yours? I would love to see how you did it with essentially the same clip. Thanks

Track width on my clip was about 3" wider than stock. I suppose I could've made up the difference with wheel offset.... I am also not sure if GM made different width Gen 2 Camaro clips but I don't think so. Centering in the wheel well is a function of careful measuring before cutting. I did my initial cuts and welding with the body in place, removed the body later to finish the job so my fenders were on it when I set the clip in place. Not sure if this makes sense or not? Adam

I'm not advocating either path but I have both. My 47 has a GM front clip and my 49 has a factory IFS. Here are a few of the PROS to adding a modern suspension: 1. Going from king pins to ball joints ++++++ 2. Power steering if you want without the kludge of a Cavalier R&P 3. Better Geometry for highway use (ability to have more caster and split, anti dive characteristics......) 4. Getting the steering box out of the engine compartment (engine swaps) 5. You can set your vehicle ride height to exactly where you want it with the control arms riding in the stock position 6. Correct wheel position (centered in fender) Not all vehicles have this issue CONS of a clip, PROS for keeping stock setup: 1. If you don't know what you are doing you will ruin your frame. This is not for the novice or faint of heart. I've seen some SCARY clip jobs... 2. Don't underestimate the amount of fabrication involved. Clips could end a lot of projects prematurely. Don't believe the hot rod shows on TV that make this stuff look easy, it isn't. 3. The stock front suspension is pretty darn good, especially after adding disc brakes and shock mount mod. 4. You can add power steering (a lot of sacrifices doing so). I am biased here cause I hate R&P steering. These aren't sports cars 5. Some locations that do annual vehicle inspections will balk at these type of modifications. 6. Track width of some clips is too wide. I had to install Fatman narrow control arms on my 71 Camaro clip in my 47 = $$$$. If you do change the suspension, I agree with using a Dakota or GM over the Mustang II. Either way you're going to have to lop the frame rails off at the firewall so why would you put a Pinto front end in with R&P? FWIW (free opinions are worth what you paid for) Adam

Because it’s not 70 years old.

If you are keeping the single pot master cylinder, I would use a Midland Ross booster.

@oldasdirt Be careful, at least Don knows how to change a tail shaft and extension housing to correct shifter location unlike your so called “shop” Now go ahead and hit the report button and tattle to the moderators, it needed to be said. Again, apologies to 55Fargo

If memory serves, the crank in my HEMI took about ~30ft/lbs to turn with all 8 pistons installed. Are you sure is wasn’t 35in/lbs? 35ft/lbs is tooooo much unless the pistons and rings are installed.

-)