Adam H P15 D30

Does Scarbird use an adapter slid on the spindle? Does the spindle nut go all the way on with the rotor and bearings installed? is that a slip on rotor?

I think he meant Fatman dropped uprights for the stock suspension

I machined my housing in a drill press with sand paper. Took about 15 minutes... No special tools required I also swapped the Chrysler ignition box for a GM HEI module from a late 70's engine eliminating the ballast resistor and better dwell control, smaller footprint.

Do a search for the Slant 6 distributor conversion here and other sites. MUCH better choice than Petronics and all parts are off the shelf at the local O'Rileys / NAPA. Plus you use a GM HEI module that does a much better job of controlling spark and duration than the Petronics. I THINK 55 Fargo did a really good write up here and on the HAMB but the pictures were lost to the Photobucket scandle. Also, check your vacuum advance to see if it is any good, if it's bad (probably) might as well do the conversion, I did mine for ~100.00 or so. @55 Fargo Spitfire Was it you that did the write up on this? If so, do you have the pictures? I used this write up a few years ago to put my Slant 6 distributor in my 49 and it was very helpful.

Just an FYI, the 518 will require floor modifications. It is a biiiig looong thing.

Good read here. Falconvan did an LS swap and had a very detailed thread on his build. He did a top notch job on this car. He also did a swap on a 49 coupe. Started with an SHO motor but ended up with a small block later. Another top notch build Remember, there only needs to be 1 perfect example of a stocker. The rest can be hotrodded.

Yes, please by all means simplify what you meant. Oh in case you forgot I’ll repost it below so you can break it down for all of us..... I didn’t see any restrictions on what GTK allows as modified.

I always believe one should build their cars however they want and to hell with what anyone else says. That being said, a Chevy and been done, redone and overdone. Everybody and their brother drops a 350/350 combo into all makes and then thinks they have something special. I modify every car I own so I'm not giving you the "purist" point of view either, and it doesn't have to have a Chevy in it to be a daily driver. For a few bucks more you could drop the 270 in it Plymouthy was talking about and be just as reliable but the cool factor goes to a new high. I really enjoyed dropping a 440 in a pre-war Chevy coupe and sticking it to the SBC crowd though. You are in the right place and just because you're dropping a V8 in your car doesn't make you unwelcome here. I completely disagree with anyone who tells you to go to the HAMB, like your modified car is not welcome here. Read the P15-D24 banner, I think some people have never read the description to the right. Adam

Build it

Oh and he said the Volvo calipers were 2 piston not 4 but the rotors are spot on for Volvo.

So, talking to dad it seemed it was a hub and rotor assembly with bearings, races etc. He bought a 3/16 spacer from JC Whitney that went against the inner bearing. Big difference from what the original poster showed, is he did have to make a plate for the caliper to bolt to the spindle. It wasn’t cast into the caliper. I showed him the picture of the caliper on this thread and he thinks it MIGHT be early mustang but that’s a guess. Early mustang was a popular conversion in the late 70’s as he remembers. This was 30 years ago on a Ford spindle. I do remember flying to Kansas from California as a kid to pick up the parts. Hope this helps, Adam

55, if your asking me, better double check on the model of Volvo. Not that I doubt my dad’s memory but he’s no spring chicken. Adam

Checked with dad and though his memory isn’t what it used to be he told me he used 70’s Volvo 122s brakes. Adam

Volvo’s had solid front rotors with 5 on 4.5 bolt circle. Dad had that very setup on his 35 Ford in the late 80’s. Adam

I don't think these engines move enough air to make a crossover do anything besides change the tone. Adam

Did you mix a Spicer type ujoint with the Detroit joint? As I understand it, that's a no-no.

If you don't plan on hammering the engine all the time, cross drilling the crank is unnecessary. These engines are known for good oiling characteristics and long life without mods.... Maybe a full flow filtering system???? Maybe not either. Adam

Sure looks like Volvo. Popular swap on pre-war Fords years ago.... Adam

I’m not sure if you were referring to my post or not but modern FI makes it more of "street rod". Certainly not a hotrod. A SBC makes it a belly button street rod or a cookie cutter street rod. I am also very biased, LOL Adam

Still have both the front brakes and drums, also still have the rear axle (drum to drum). I would like to see it go to someone else besides the scrapper, but I've tripped over them 1 too many times and I'm going to send them off to the dumps very soon.

I've always felt that loading an old car up with modern computer junk somehow takes the old car away. A SBC in anything is soooooo boring and has been done many times over, why not do something a little different? Old school stuff is right at home in an old school car. Carbs and distributors served their owners for many trouble free miles and parts are very easy to come by. If I feel like driving something with F.I., air bags, smog devices, I drive my F150, if I want to take a step back in time I drive a hotrod and I try not to mix the two. My point is to figure out what you want in an OLD car, If it's a fuel injected something that gets 25mpg so be it, if it's to be a "hotrod" better fond something "hot" to put in it, if it's a cool cruiser, better find something "cool" to put in it. If it's a commuter that you want to maximize economy, safety and comfort, park it and drive a modern car. Adam

I used the Rusty Hope Kit, a search here will find all the information you need. The kit works fantastic and the instructions were good. The hardest part was tapping the spindles, but it wasn't that hard at all as they are pretty soft metal. There was something I didn't like about the Scarebird kit that made me choose Rusty Hope but I can't remember what it was. BTW, when I had an installation question, I emailed him and he responded within hours... top notch! I am using my original M/C and it works good. I removed the internal residual pressure valve and installed a 2lb front and 10lb rear residual pressure valves in line. I'll bet the Scarebird kit would work the same if you go that route. I have since purchased a dual M/C but it's not high on my list to install at this point because the Dodge stops so well as it is. Adam

I agree with the above posters that you probably have too much carb. That said, you stated they were brand new? There was a recent thread on the H.A.M.B. about someone who bought new 97’s that were manufactured in China. He never could get them to run even marginally well. Ended up putting a used OE 97 on and his problems went away. Adam

Sorry, I only have 5 lug drums. Adam

I'd keep the stock front suspension before I'd install Pinto suspension. 2nd choice would be a Dakota clip. Adam