Adam H P15 D30

Dump the Pertronix and retest... and reduce the fuel pressure

As others have said it’s probably all in the clutch, but...... if you find the trans having shift issues after the clutch is fixed, it could be the type of gear oil used. Most stores only have GL5 gear oil which is very bad for our transmissions and can cause shift problems because it’s eating up the blocking rings and other soft metal parts. NAPA still carries GL1 gear oil. Adam

Update Its been a week now and I’ve put just over 200 miles on it. I live in a very hilly part of the Bay Area and I took it on a 20 minute drive up and down some steep, narrow roads. Temps were in the high 80’s and these were 1st gear roads but I wanted to test the cooling system and for any kind of vapor lock. I’m pleased to say it stayed between 175-185 and never missed a beat, the fan did run most of the time. I really appreciated the fluid drive doing this test, it worked perfectly. I stated earlier I was changing rear tires from 235/75/15 to 235/60/15 and loosing 3 inches in diameter to help compensate for the tall 3.0 rear gears. They look good in the fenders and fit perfectly with no rubbing, see earlier pictures. Thanks to Pflaming I now have a fast second that I might install this winter but it’s fine with the fluid drive second. On the highway it cruises effortlessly at 70 taching about 2800 rpm. Climbs the 7% hills our freeways have at any speed between 55-75 in high gear without too much fuss. I really like the gears now! I know in the back of my mind I should upgrade to a dual master cylinder but it stops so well with a very light pedal, I don’t want to mess with it. Things to do I want to align it. Probably in the next week or three. No issues but I’ve never had it checked. Steering is light and it tracks super well, one finger driving. Clean overspray from windshield. Somehow the clear oversprayed and stuck to the windshield. Probably when I had to respray the trunk. Found that when the sun was low. Maybe shock relocation For now, keep driving. Adam

Not even close. He's about 15K below the poverty line in the Bay Area. The income level to stay above the poverty line here is ~105k... Adam

Carter / Webers like Marty is using above. I believe they offer better driveability than 2 1bbls but that could be a debated subject here. Definitely better tuning if you’re willing to do it. I will say they run darn good out of the box. All out Power probably goes to dual 1bbls.

Different carbs but linkage is same. Got mine from Langdon.

Langdon's HEI distributor is mostly off the shelf Chevy 2.8 V6 parts available at most auto parts stores, that's the beauty of it. I'd have no issues running it except it's pricey....

There are better options than Pertronix that are almost a bolt on. Anyone with a drill and sandpaper can do the conversion. You'll kick yourself when the Pertronix module craps out on a roadtrip and you're stuck till a replacement arrives. If you are staying 6v, disregard below and stay with the points. Conversion compliments of thrashingcows How to use a GM HEI with the MOPAR electronic distributor. Dump the unreliable MOPAR module and ballast resistors for something modern: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 Here is my finished product, the regulator now houses all my relays: If you plan on upgrading to disc brakes, the stock wheels will not clear some kits, others no problem. Also, there has been rim fatigue reported here and other sites when radials were fitted to old wheels, not often but has happened. I know the rattle can paint on my origional 49 wheels started lifting shortly after radials were installed, coincidence? Newer, better steel wheels are cheap and available. Adam

A lot of the modules are triggered when the points close or the circuit is completed, thus throwing the rotor to cap timing way off. Depending on the module used, an inverter must be built to keep the spark happening when when the rotor is pointing at the terminal (points opening). I built one a while back and it worked until I did the slant 6 mod. Got the schematic from the interweb.

Is you car 12v or still 6v? On my frequently driven (not daily but almost) 49, I went with the slant 6 conversion and a GM HEI module. Works like a charm and if it ever fails parts are easily available. Search "slant 6 distributor mod" here and you will find the best solution. BTW, I hate Pertronics, I'd stay with points before buying one of those but if yor're planning to stay 6v and want electronic ignition, Pertronics is your only choice.... Adam

Here is a better shot of how I did my cowl. Please excuse the finger in the photo.

A simple answer to your title no matter who paints it. Single stage: More original, old timey look. Base / Clear: Streetrod plastic dipped look. Depending on your preference. Adam

They are never "finished."

Just buy a new Midland Ross remote booster. Also, if that compression fitting in the first picture is a brake line, replace it!

New wheels and tires installed. I think I'm finished for now, time to add some miles to it.... Adam

Not exactly, racing engines are generally roller engines not needing the Zinc. Most OHV V8's running Hydraulic or Solid flat tappet cams need 1200-1600 PPM ZDDP to keep the cam from flattening, and they will go flat! The ZDDP was added when OHV engines started getting higher valve spring rates. Yes, your 60's - 70's - and 80's cars will generally need the Zinc to keep the cam happy. Cat converters were the main reason for its removal. I MUST run it in my HEMI because I run a flat tappet cam. My Flathead doesn't need it because it doesn't have enough spring pressure to matter.

Are you planning to modify this tool? It won't help much as pictured because you cannot center the shoes inside the drum. That's why the elusive Lockheed tool rotates on the spindle. Also without a way of arcing the shoes, getting a decent pedal, even with the Lockheed tool, is difficult.

These old flatheads probably don't need extra ZDDP because of the simplified valve train and low spring pressures. That said, I do use Diesel oil in mine with comes will a reduced amount ZDDP. My OHV engines with higher spring pressures definitely get the ZDDP treatment. Adam

Thank you for the compliment. Seems I like to wallow in a mess when I'm busy but then I do marathon garage cleanings. The Maroon coupe is a 47 Ford The Orange sedan in the background of my earlier pictures is a 35 Ford Slant. Adam The 35: The 47:

Basically how I did mine but I followed the contour of the windshield.

Thanks a lot guys

Firing order? Distributor turns clockwise if you’re looking straight at it from the top

I second that. Could be an alternative to finding the obsolete expensive tool. If I got my hands on one of these tools, I’d repop it and market it.

We installed an LM (Tahoe LS) in dad’s 35. Went with the painless harness and a 2004R, much smaller in size than the 4L60. The factory harness is useless. If you take that LS apart, read CAREFULLY concerning the crank pulley reinstall. Use the ARP bolt and torque to 250 lb/ft per instructions. Don’t try to reuse the factory bolt. Adam

Air cleaners work well with slightly smaller elements. Since this is basically a sheet metal intake and much taller, hopefully shouldn’t have the heat problems at slow speeds the cast aluminum intake could have. Adam