Plymouthy Adams

the paintless guys would walk away and hopefully not laugh aloud till out of ear shot. While they are a marvel to what they can do, they cannot work a kink or severed crease. The panel can be worked on the car...the molding also does not appear creased or kinked...on curved a result of following the metal but not getting struck by another object, the one end that popped the light pressed steel retainer saved you bacon would be my reading the crime scene

as is typical of many companies, and I will not arbitrary say this includes this site, but the drive to secure the lowest cost for the highest back pocket monies is the trend, where source is default to the lowest bidder/supplier. And I am not sure of the QA and if this seller actually will take a product out of the box and randomly check it against the specifications. I know I have had less than good service and the owner simply cared less if the item worked or not, send it back, and at your cost despite the fact it was stated as correct by the seller, confirmed and assured 100% correct by a phone call before ordering only to get a piece of generic garbage no where close to a fit. Sad to say but it seems the sale was more important than being correct. Sadly this is not just this seller but most all these days it seems.

to keep it simple, power the fuse box if switched circuits through a power up relay...clean neat and easy.

don't forget the R10 unit has it's own separate fill and drain plugs as that of the transmission.

what did Bernbaum have to say about this besides, sorry send it back or shazam we sent the wrong part. My speedline can only supply the mopar number, 670 752 (neopreme without felt) this is the cross I found Performance Part Superseded Part Number 1671763 Country/Region of Manufacture United States OE/OEM Part Number 670752, 1486096, 1550929 Interchange Part Number Victor 49318, Victor 49075, Trostel A85037S, Trostel A48074S, Chicago Rawhide 15620, National 471827

My neighbor sprayed his Chevy with rust remover..good stuff....

as an aside, check carefully about the main gasketing areas, compressor low/high ports, the relief valve, the receiver dryer, condenser and the connectors at both evaporators given you have rear air. Check also for a leaking trinary switch. To check the evaporator you probe the ducts nearest the evaporator you can get. AC with some charge, operate, turn off let stand (no air movement) listen for detection.

a halogen sniffer is very inexpensive.....

you have no need for lead substitute in this flathead with factory hardened valve seats

is this a rubber needle or a metal needle? most are rubber and look to possible alcohol or other additives you may be putting in the tank as a preservative giving you fits.....

there is the problem, no AC.....?

at this day and age and given the manner many things may be done in less than a perfect environment, if one is taking a part out of a box that looks old, damage, dirty or mishandled, you are doing yourself and your car a disservice by not taking it down for inspection, clean and reassembly. Especially in the area of the brakes we cleanliness is everything...where brake fluid is the assembly lube and we all know it has hygroscopic properties. If this is you, then be it on you. Could be the difference between an enjoyable outing and the high ride back on the flatbed given you make it back at all. Not saying this happens but without a bit of an inspection, the likelihood is greater.

if you do not have the tools, hopefully you will get them....there is no substitute for the proper tool only one that could be your next accident.

I still think it is good your order was cancelled. If a seller has passed and was as I read it had a protege assisting, the status of the offered sales/service needed to be upgrade to the forum. Little is as aggravating as trying to contact with a shop no longer in business.

acclimate folks....get out, get busy and let the sweat do it's magic......the poisons have left the body....! Just do stay hydrated....work a bit rest a bit...good for the body, good for the mind when you do relax a bit at the end of the day and look back at what you accomplished.

to that end if you did order on the 18th of June and it hasn't shipped by Aug. 3....yeah way to long....good thing that facebook has your back in my opinion.

I'd go with cork rubberized cork will work as well...your call, the chest is high on the block, there is sufficient valley/sump within that there is really little worry of flooded with oil and leaking like a sieve.

tappet chest gaskets......really telling my age here..

No, not off the top of my head I would have to probably ask also or do some research.

you are tagging in on a silent block thread....the silent block and shackle bushings are two distinctly different animals, the silent blocks do need pressed in and are a pain to removed. I changed a set of silent blocks, the blocks were not bad it turns out but they were by the time I got them out....on inspection next time around with spring rebuild, the silent block stayed as there rarely by my experience are damaged.

for the shackle end, that is correct...

what was the tailwind speed and down hill grade? lol I kid of course. Many folks would never push one of these old cars for love nor money.

I'd be depressed also running at those lower speeds....

we have high temp and higher humidity.....am wet sanding the roof of a project car today, found I just need to wring out my t-shirt for water.....lol Of course I am not but could be done! Many folks sitting about doing nothing. Like you, taking advantage of morning and evening hours....today with the huge storm that came through, temps are moderate for the minute...will not be this way tomorrow.

the basic design is solid, if the drum is centric and flush, there is no mechanical concerns really....now...as to the very part supplied as pictured...I have never had one in my hand to say it is built to fit properly. (this is likely what the B-body boys do with the pre 65 muscle car axles and hubs. I will say this....on the P15 when removing the drum from the hub, you will find a step that will have to be removed on a lathe to make the hub register correct so the very base of the hub the drum will fit flush and align. I just last fall did a hub separation, lathe cut and fitted 1989 brake drum but went the extra mile to also fit the donor backing plate, will be one or two other small mods to match plate to housing...sacrifice of the originals for the seals. The average person would not this route and stick with the fixed shoes but floaters and self adjusters are the only way to go. I have about 13 pictures of this process.