desoto1939

but think of the knowledge that you just received and also what you just learned about your car. The two hours of investigating the issue was time well spent. So if this is the first true time that you spent in 25 years of ownership of the car then the two hours of your time is only a very very small fraction of total time working on the car. Glad that you found the issue but better off is that you took the time to let everyone know what the problem was that caused the car not to start. The learning and the telling how you fixed the issue is important for all of us to know so this is another learning session for everyone. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

if you remove the wiper motor then take off the outer cover, The grease inside the motor and the gears have been clogged up with the hardened grease. Clean it out the relube the gears. This is a common problem. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

That part is known as the wiper transmission or pivot and it is a complete Autolite unit that canbe replaced. I have an Autolite catalog that covers all of the Autolite parts that were used on your car. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

You would have had a vacuum wiper motor made by Trico: I have more info and if you want the whole catalog contact me at Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Here is some info taken from my Trico catalog The grid below is a list of replacement motors made by trico.

Hershey is always such a fantastic meet and a real adventure. Hard to believe that so many venders with all of the different parts. I have been goinf there for over 37 years and have seen the monsoons and slopping through the muddy fields and cars getting stuck in the mud. Have found lots of quality NOS parts for my 39 Desoto over the years. Things are changing, the older guys with the real early parts are dying and lees of these items are not coming out to the swap meet. Part of the problem is the internet and ebay. so much easier to sell the parts world wide and then you do not have to deal with the giys trying to get the part for a dollar. Best one I saw happen is a guy came up to a vender and he states outloud that there is the last piece of NOS trim he needed for his car. The seller had a fair price of $35 on the item. The buyer offered 25 but the seller said it was 35 and every time the buyer opened his mouth the item went up by $5. Eventually the item price was around $55. Took the buyer awhile to figure out what was happening. The seller asked for the trim back. He was mad and did not want to deal with the buyer. He then snapped the trim in half over his knee. The buyer was total upset. The seller then came back and stated that you opened your mouth that this is the last piece you need for your car and that you knew it was a fair price, but you pushed my buttons so now you do not get the item and even if I have another one I will not even sell it to you. Best advise is that if you see the part you need offer a fair price if the seller will not take it then either walk away or pay the price especially if you really need the item. This guy lost out entirely because of $10 bill. His loss. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I remember when you drove the car to te Hershey swap meet in Hershey Pa. You always have great stories and it just proves that these grand old ladies can still perform up to our standards. everyone thinks that if it is not a small block engine with disk brakes and an overdrive that these great old cars are not road worthy. Keep the grand old lady running that what she was made to do. Rich Hartung 1939 Desoto owner and a driver not a trailer queen.

They found out that undercoating was not a good practice. At first the product was ok when it was first applied and sealed the undercarriage. But as time went on and driving on the roads and also on tar an chipped roads in the country they found that the undercoating was getting worn away from the road salt and rocks flying up chipping the undercoating. Then the rain water and salt water would get inot the crack and start to rust the underside of the metal. Might use PORS 15 to seal the underside of the body. Rich Hartung

I know Andy B sells the metal style bushings and they are not that expensive. I think around $5 each. Not everyone carries these items so get them now and have a set because eventually you will need them. In this hobby it is better to be prepared with extra parts. I have been collecting parts for my 39 Desoto for the past 35 years. The car is in the shop this week and the mechanic has asked if I had specific suspension parts and I went to my supply area and pulled the parts he needed and delivered them to him in 30 minutes from his phone call. Also the cost of these parts were much cheaper then todays prices so when you see something for your car at a swap meet better byt the item for future installation. If never installe it can also be sold to the next owner of the car or put up for auction again. Here is a little secret I use on my boxes of parts. On the inside lid I put the date when purchased and the the amt I purchased it from and then another two number. So here is an example Breaker Plate IGS3004A on the inside flap date is 111024150024. First six are the date of purchase then what I paid and an ending two number. So if a byer ask about a price and he is not offering my asking price I can look at the flap and know that i spent 15 for the item and then we can negotiate a price. But know I know I need to get 25 or more for the item. Makes life real simple when selling items at a swap meet or even at Hershey. Rich Hartung

Pullin the steering wheel: From 1939 and up to Mopar used the Miller steering wheel puller that has three holes that you thread bolts into the main body of the center of the steering wheel. refer to my attached picture from my Miller Tool Catalog. 1938 and back did not have the three threaded bolts. The 38 and back uses a special puller made by three bolts. The proper puller wraps under the bottom of the steering wheel and the bolt is turned to pull the wheel off the steering wheel shaft. I also checked my 1936-42 Desoto master parts book and then looked at the steering column part number and for 1938/39 they used the same shaft. I then went to a spare steering wheel that I have and my steering wheel inside the main body is serrated or splined to match the spines on the end of the steering shaft when the steering is attached. Hope this helps with you project of alignment of the steering wheel. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Below is the proper steering wheel remover for 1939 and up around 1952? Below is the proper puller for 38 and back:

Is it the pitman, or steering sector that is the pin coming out of the steering box could be worn and the bushing a internal are all worn or is ther play inthe tire rod ends or is there play in the kingpins? Need to really have a good suspension person check out the car before you really start to rip things apart. Also could be uuper and lower control arms and bushing and also the eccentric bushings. Lots of moving parts on the front suspension components. Spend the money to have a specialist evaluate the issue than spend the money to get the appropriate parts to fix the front end. I have seen owners spend money on parts after parts and it turned out to be something else. Just my 50 cents work of input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The next time you are at a swap meet and pickup a NOS Distributor cap examine the cap very closely. You might find a very small hole about 1/16 inch drilled into the side of the cap. You might ask yourself why is there a hole in the cap and other caps do not have this hole. The Chrysler cars and trucks were known for getting moisture in the caps especially with the butterfly style hoods. Some Chryslers, and a few other makes, seem to have a problem with moisture collecting inside of the distributor cap. One solution was to drill a 1/16 inch hole on the back side of the cap. In fact, some of the early day distributor manufacturers put the hole in the cap when they were being manufactured. In later years this hole has seemed to disappear. My Autolite IGC-1107S caps have the hole drilled into the cap. Autolite supplied most of the electrical parts for the MoPar cars and trucks. So go and look at one of you spare caps to see if you have the hole. If your car is developing a hard starting issue in cold and wet weather there might be moisture inside the cap. I know some people spray the inside of the cap with WD40 and then wipe the inside of the cap and make sure it is dry and then put the cap back on the dizzy and the car/truck fires right up. On the pictures attached is an Autolite and a Preferred cap for my 39 Desoto and note that both have the holes in the cap and the instruction for the plug. Tech Tip Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

could it be choke issue sticking? just a thought. Rich Hartung

Also like what you designed. Great fabrication. One suggestion, to improve the finished product I would roll the front and back ends and then seal the seam with some clear silicone seam sealer. I would make it look more stock and finished. Just my 25 cents worth of input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I was doing a search in my 1929-39 Desoto, Ply Master parts book and they used or documented that the hose clamps were a flat band style and the two wire clamps style was only used other by-pass rubber hose at the water pump. Then around 1942 they made a change to a different style clamp which is a flat band style. We can not find any examples of the newer style nor does anyone have any. Most of the major clubs such as the Ply owners club and WPC all recognize the two wire style clamps as being the proper clamp. Rich Hartung

If you are also not looking to be period correct then you do not have to have the two wire hose clamps. You could use the more modern hose clamp that has the opening in which the screws tightens the band and you can see the slots in the clamp. If a driver then go this way but if you are going to want the car judged then you will have to used the two wire clamps to be correct. Rich Hartung

I am assuming that the original poster still has the original Lockheed Braking system and each brake shoe is independent of the other shoe. If he has the original system then he has drum brakes and not rotors as another poster indicated. Yes he needs to check out each brake area. If any issues then fix that issue. We do not know if the drums have been turned or not. this could be another issue. When were the shoes last adjusted on each wheel. You have to remember that on these cars they did not have self adjusting brakes like our modern cars have. Every several months of driving you might have to perform a minor brake shoe adjustment. If you are not experienced then try to find a mechanic that knows the old Lockheed braking system. You will need the tool and get the shoes arced to match up with each drum. Suggest that you get the appropriate service manual for your car and read the section on brake adjustments. If you feel somewhat confident but still not 100% then try to get a other antique mopar friend to help out with the adjustments. We have all gone through what you are experiencing and will try to assist were we can. Keep posting questions and updates. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

You can contact the old Chryslerr historical to purchase a build sheet about your car. Do a search of topics and it is listed on where to write to costs approx $50. i did it for my 1939 Desoto and got some great info. Search on Ebay for manuals for your car. You do not need an original but a copied manual is just fine. Also you do not have to have a copy of the manual in your car if you are having your car ever judged. The parts and service manual are only needed if a judge thinks a part was not delivered with your car or as a non-option piece of equiptment. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Doug: Thanks for the compliment. I am always looking for good quality cross reference catalogs to support my hobby and of course it also helps everyone esle. Hope to see at this years Hershey event I am still in the same location. Already sent in my fees for my two spots. Rich

Went to the Automania swap meet in Allentown PA sponsored by the Carlise organization this past weekend. Fair amount of venders with some good parts in general. I purchase a very special use tool. This tool is not used that often but when you need to use it, it makes your live so much easier. It is used to remove the four 1/2 inch bolts that hold the upper pully for the fan blades. The nice part is that it has a ratcheting end so all you have to do is use it a as a rachet socket. The tool is made to get into the very narrow space between the radiator and the fan blade and stops you from getting skinned knuckles. I have another tool similar to this one but it does not ratchet. Cost me $20. So look for this type of tool at the next swap meet, it just might save you some time, aggravation and skinned knuckles. Rich Hartung Desoto1939aol.com

I just received a very good parts catalog from the McQuay-Norris company. This catalog covers all cars from 1914 -1942and I also have a second one that goes to 1947. McQuay - Norris manufactured complete line of engine and chassis parts. Very good quality parts supplier. Covers: Pistons and associated parts Valves, Piston Skirts, dry cylinder sleeves, moto bearings, water pumps and parts, Front suspensions components, king pins and bushings, spring bolts, bushings and u shackles. There are also some pictures of these parts. This is another addition to my master collection for cross reference parts for our MoPars. Have info on Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, Plymouth, Dodge Trucks plus the other major car marques. If you are looking for a part number contact me and I will scan that info for you. This catalog has 320 pages. I have attached the cover page. Rich Hartung

Dodgeb4ya: Never would have thought about that option to keep the choke plate open longer. Good point for my Sisson Choke power Point information. Thanks, Rich Hartung

Hey Dan: The Autolite Sisson choke training info was from me and i added it to the down load section. Also sent you the Sisson Choke manual and the rod length information. You can purchase the Sisson choke gaskets on ebay but you can make your own with any heat gasket material. Yes, you do need the gasket because of the heat transfer from the manifold to the bi-metal plate that is under the base of the choke. Rich Hartung

Bern: If you had read and also opened the Buick parts seller he also had those paper filters to fit the glass bowl. I use the same glas filter and the same paper filter on my 39 Desoto and it work perfectly fine. Yes the paper filter is not period correct but if you have a driver the object is tomake sure you have clean gas going to the carb, also most people would not even know if this is correct or not correct. Rich Hartung

Bob: The next time that you are at a swap meet pickup an old Mechanic Rate Book. These are very cheap becasue most people do not want them. But look through one. You will see that there are lots of pictures and part number for the date range that the book covers. So for a few dollars you get a great parts book and then can also verify if that same part might fit your current car and also some repair information. Cheap reference catalog for your car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Loren: as you stated about the diminishing of quality ignition parts such as points, condensers, caps, rotors for our cars this is why I try to keep a good supply of the older original Autolite parts in my parts cabinet for my 1939 Desoto. Also be aware that even getting the rubber cups for our wheel cylinders is even getting harder to purchase. I went to my local NAPA store and needed 1 3/8 rubber cups. They did a search and only could come up with a total of 7 from another NAPA store in the area. They had them delivered to their store and I had them by that afternoon. Yes even NAPA is having issues with their old stock. So, i recommend that if you have an older antique car/truck, MC or what ever that you start to prepare for the future NOW. The future is coming faster than you think. I attend several of the Major Car Shows and swap meet here in eastern PA, Carlise, Macungie and even Hershey in the fall. I am seeing less and less of these early ignition parts on the tables. The older guys that carried these items are dying and the next generation is not selling these items. Also people might think about getting a used condenser testing tool just to see what microfarids they are getting in their condensers. Also suggest that you keep at least one dist cap, rotor, point set and condenser in your truck as a spare and even a complete breaker plate assembly incase of an emergency repair on the road. Even a spare 6 volt generic coil as a spare that can be wired to get you home and back on the road. This is another reason to have an electric fuel pump on your car. So many small items to think about, but we all need to be prepared. It is so important now because the old tried and true parts suppliers such as NAPA might not have these parts and or might now be able to order in the parts. Rich Hartung