desoto1939

The correct grease is called Dialectric grease and just a very light smear is placed on the distributor cam. Also if you have an external grease cup on your early distributor body approx every couple of months rotate the cup clockwise approx 1/4 to 1/2 turn to force grease into the inner bushing. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Sniper: I have been running a carter carb in my 39 Desoto for over 35 years with the original carter parts and it also has the leather accelerator step up piston. There are really no rubber parts to be concerned about with the ethenol gas. Yes some people have gone to the rubber tipped needle valve but the original need valve was originally entirely metal, so no issue with the full metal valve. Yes there are cardboards gaskets and the regular factory gasket that are used between each section of the carb but inall reality they are not going to have any real contact with the enthinol gas. My carb builder who has been in the business for over 40 years told me that the leather accelerator piston will not get affected by the ethinol gas issues. So that is why it always try to get true rebuild kits and sometime can get them cheaper that the more modern kits. I will have to agree that the old fuel pump kits are not good and the new ethanol diaphragm is the real replacement that needs to be installed. I in in the process of rebuilding my Carter E6N1 carb that has been on my car for the past 35 years and I am using a total rebuild carter carb kit that has all of the plugs, gaskets and small internal parts and springs. I purchased the original kit for $35. The main get is brass and so are all of the other internal parts so ethinol is not going to affect these parts. People can use what ever they prefer. Just adding in my $1.00 worth of input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I looked in my Autostat Temp gage catalog here are screen prints of their thermostats. you should be using the 75-fht or the 95-fht model. refer to the second and third screen shot. The 3rd page show what each thermostat looks like. I think you might have an incorrect stat in your car according to the picture you posted versus what this major supplier of thermostats produced from early 1930 - 1950. I would go by his information. Just some FYI for you. This is why i stress the collection of older catalogs to support your hobby of older cars. Hope this solved your heating issue. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here is what is included in a newer kit: Where is the new replacement jet and th small pump high idle brass parts. So basically you get new gaskets float needle small gaskets, I do not see any plugs no small ball bearing that are part of the internal parts no venturi tube all of the parts that are included in an original repair kit. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I just did a search on Ebay here is the lisiting: 1937 C6F1 PLYMOUTH REPAIR PARTS MANUAL CARTER CARBURETOR NIB OEM KIT cost $65 Rich Hartung

Look on the air horn which is where the air cleaner mounts to the car. There should be a metal flange and on this flange should be the model number of your carb like B6G1. Then do some searching on ebay for a carter carburetor kit for the specific model and carb number and or carter carburetor kit for 1937 Plymouth. The old original kits had all of the brass internal parts were as the newer replacements kits do not contain all of the parts. I prefer the original kits. Also with the carter original kits each Carter part number is listed on the front of the box lid. You will then have the appropriate carter part numbers and then you can also search when at swap meet to see what other carb kits contain the same internal parts and then have some real time assembled kits. The old original kits are much better and they also contain the accelerator pump that has the leather part to make the seal. I have a large collection of these kits for my 39 Desoto. These older kits are getting harder to find so if you find one then get it for future use. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK, I already have a dual 6v headlight relay on my 39 Desoto. I pull the power from my starter solenoid that is on top of the stater motor. I have the old style push rod style starer system, old floor plunger setup. The single and double relays both have protection by a fuse and this is where the power supply wire is attached to the relay. As you all know I recently purchase a set of senior Trippe 8 inch driving lights and they are currently installed and working on the car. I use a remote rotary switch that is attached to underside of my dash and is connected to the key switch also on the dash. I want to hook up another single 6v headlight relay to make the Trippe Lights perform brighter. So here are my options: 1. Run a new 10 gage wire from my solenoid to the new 6v single relay and then connect the wire coming from the switch and wires running out to the driving lights. 2. Run another 10 gage wire from my existing 6v dual headlight relay connection to the single headlight relay and then complete the wiring from the on/off switch to each individual Trippe light? Not sure if connecting to the dual relay might cause more issues or if better to just run an additional circuit to the second single relay. I think that having two seperate circuit is a better option, What is everyone's thoughts? Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Where the linkage comes across over the top of the head look at the point where the linkage attaches to the bottom of the carb. There might be a rod that control the throttle speed and also a very small piece of metal called the throttle shaft dog. You mght have a groove in the shaft dog and it is sticking and keeping the idle high on your carb. I had this very same issue with my 1939 Desoto. The throttle shaft dogs are hard to find. Might find a used carb and it might still have this on the base. In the picture it is the metal piece that is to the left of the throttle adjustment. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 1939 40 41 42-54 Throttle dog.docx

kouseneric39: I am sorry that you did not get the complete answer to your question. At first you stated that you did not have a wire diagram for your 39 Dodge so I took my time and copied the wire diagrahm and the wire number section so you would know what wires went to from the switch to the wiper motor. even my shop repair manual does not specifically state which is the power wire sending current to the wiper motor. So yes now that you know where each wire should be attached to the switch and to the wiper motor you can now use your testing lamp to help identify the power source. i did tell you that the power to the switch comes from the fuel gage. Yes your wires might have changed colors but you will still have to look under the dash a physically trace which wire and color goes to each switch. Sometimes the best knowledge is received via the effort to learn by doing things yourself with a test lamp. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is the wiring diagram from my 39 Desoto it basically should be the same for your 39 Dodge. Part AA is the electric wiper motor. Note the A,B,C wires connected to the wiper motor. The wire number 41 supplies power to the wiper switch and connects to Y the fuel guage on the dash. This should help you get to know your car. The 1939 Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge basically used the same wiring pattern. This page was taken out of my 1939 Supplemental service manual for the 39 Desoto. Rich Hartung

In the picture going from left to right the contacts are marked as A, B, C. Go to your service and parts book for your car adn then go to the wire diagram. It will show you which wire is connected to your wiper switch and the power source. If you do not have these basic two manuals then you will need to have them so that you can understand how your car is wired and how to fix items that need repair. each of the wires will then connect back to the wiper switch and each terminal is also labeled as A,B or C. you will have to trace the power source from the switch. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

if you cut through the entire cable and then cut the internal wires to short then you might have a pbm with getting new wires attached to the switch. I stil have the 6v positive grd wire system in my 39 Desoto. Also remember that if switching to neg ground how you need to connect the wires to the coil. The switch in your 39 Dodge is just completing the electrical circuit to provide power to the coil and then to the dizzy. I have owned my 39 Desoto which is a sister car to your 39 Dodge for over 35+ years. I have not switch to an alternator and still have the 6v gen and starter. Might consider converting to a 6v positive grnd alternator and then use a converter to power anything that you need for 12 volts. This is a lot cheaper and then you still have the originality for your 39 Dodge. Just my 39 cents worth of input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Some history on the oilite bearing developed by Chrysler and Carl Breer the designer of the airflow: Below id the correct way to install a pilot bushing in our old MoPar's. There isa a special tool used to install and to burnish the bearing. Note that it aso states not to ream the bearing. I have this tool and several of my Mopar friends have use the tool. You can sometimes fined this tool on Ebay. Another great engineering product from the Chrylser Motor Division and everyone thinks GM/FORD are the best, Think again you FURD and Chebby owners. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Currently there are two of these units on Ebay for a cost of $150. Not sure if the poster on the forum is the same seller 2 Vintage NOS 1953-1954 Plymouth Dodge DeSoto E-Z Hydraulic Power Brakes #11030 Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

since you have the installation instruction sheet is there anyway that you can make a clearer copy of this so that we can all read it. The instruction sheet might also explain how the unit works. This is a neat concept so the information is good to know incase someone else finds a unit at a swap meet. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I would purchase the spare carb for that price and then have a machine shop pull the old brass rod and then install a new rod and then have a spare throttle body. $20 is cheap for a carb and then youcan play with th eold carb and get some education on how it all works. Just my $20 worth of input. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have seen B&B NOS carbs for my 1939 Desoto that were still in the factory Box that was painted a flat black color on the outside of the body but not on the inside of the carb. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

There are two specific miller factory tools that are used to remove and install the pilot bushing on our cars. One tool threads into the pilot bushing and it bushes it out of the pilot hole. the other tool is used to instrt the pilot bushing and then it burnishes it to the proper opening. I have both of these tools and they work everytime. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The dimmer switch might have corrosion on the contact points. Press the dimmer switch several times to clean the contacts. Check the fuse for the light switch might be blown. Go to the headlight junction block and use a test lamp to see if you have current flowing to the connection block. If you have power to this section then your lights might be toast. Pull a headlight bulb disconnect the wire connecter then test with a 6 volt battery charger to see if they light up. If they light up then check each connecter at the base of the bulb to see if you have current flowing to the socket. Also could be a grounding issue or maybe the bulbs are bad. Just basic diagnostic procedures. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

could the airhorn not be perfectly flat? I have seen this. Someone took a piece of flat plate glass then put emery paper down on the glass then put the bottom of the airhorn on the emery paper and then rubbed the airhorn across the paper to find a hihg spot and to get the entire airhorn perfectly flat on all the outer edges. This is just a WAG or Wild Ass Guess as they say in the Army. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

LOTS of cars had dealer applied body undercoating to help prevent rust through of the fenders and rocker panels. BUT, they then found out that this was causing more issues and rust and holes. What was happening is then when a rock hit the metal in the fender well it then nicked the underside of the rust proofing material and then made a small hole. So if you lived in the Rust Belt area and they used salt to treat the roads the brine mixture would then be splashed up and then seep into the hole and then colect again st the metal body and then start the rusting process and the car owner never knew what was happening. When they came up with the galvanized fenders and body metal this prolonged the life of the body panels to prolong the issue of premature rust out. Chrysler was an real inventor to the galvanized panels on their Caravan's. Since we do not drive our cars in the winter with the salt issue I would scrap off al of the old under coating and then apply a good coat of PORS on the metal. We have also discovered that when people put bed liners in their pickup trucks the water and moisture would get under the liner and then when the owner took off the liner the entire bed area was rusting, same issue again with moisture. Just my input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Dan: Sealed beam headlights were first introduced in 1940 and mandated by the Govt. There were a few exception that still used bulbs. For MoPar from 1940-48 the cars and truck all used the 4030 Sealed beam bulb that did not have the aiming tips. From 1949-56 still 6 volt they used the Autolite Bullseye bulb and still no aiming tip. In 1956 the 6v 6006 sealed beam was first produced and these had the aiming tips so that the BEAR headlight machine could be used to adjust the light instead of aiming the lights against a wall and manually adjusting the light. More of a true system to get everyone's lights in sync. The 6006 6v bulb is now used as the primary headlight bulb for cars and truck from 1940 to around 1956 for cars that had 6volt system.s Rich Hartung

Ivan: Thanks for the input. I was thinking of moving the big lights outward to have them between the regular headlights and the bumperettes so that the gril would be more visible and to improve the esthetics of the front of the car. More like the small light that you see when looking at the car on the right and then will have to reposition the Pa tag. Rich Hartung

As many of you know I recently got a fantastic deal on a pair of almost NOS Trippe Senior Driving lights with the Trippe mounting brackets. These light are approx 8 inch in diameter. The trippe lights were used on the more upscale cars but will provide me with additional frontal lighting. The Trippe lights are period correct since they have the old 32 candle power bulb versus the sealed beam bulb on my smaller lights and these are not period correct because sealed beam lights di not become available until 1940. I have placed the Trippe Lights and the smaller driving lights on the front bumper mount. I am trying to get more light on the road when coming home from cruise night shows and to be more safe on the road at night or when it is dusk. So I have attached picture with both big and small lights on the car. I would like some honest opinions, you can not offended me with your reply. The placement of the lights are just temporary so I can get other owners thoughts.util Thanks, Rich Hartung

Also make sure you replenish your gas tank with fresh ai because of all of the stale air that has been settling to bottom of your gas tank will have made the gas heavy and will not allow it to flow upto your carb. Rich Hartung