desoto1939

Binster what is the numbers on the two selinoids. Need those to help identify if you have the correct number. Also in your parts book what is the correct mopar number for the starter selinoid? All information is needed. The selinoid that I sent you with the autolite information is the type that mount on top of the starter motor. I did a lookup of 861500 and this is not even close to the type that bolts onto the top of the starter motor. Attach some pictures some can compare the starter selinoids. This is what your starter motor and starter selinoid should look like the big black part is the selinoid that is bolted to the top of the starter motor. Rich Hartung

binster: what was the Autolite starter replay number that would have been stamped on the mounting flange of the starter selinoid? The correct selinoid should have been SS-4705. If you purchased a new one for $85 you got a great price. These special starter selinoids ss-4705 are very hard to find and the mechanic new that information. So again as Plymouth asked did you get the NOS ss back from the mechanic and also post the number on that unit and the number onthe unit they installed. refer to the attached document on autolite starter selinoids. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Autolite Starter Controls.pdf

Yes, we all have to agree that the parts are getting expensive. BUT, you have to remember that we are now into a 12v modern car world. These blubs are not easy to find and when you do find them as a seller you also have to pay a price to get them. Also remember that Ebay does take a nice percentage of the sale on each item so a seller has to also adjust his selling price just to cover ebays fees and then make some profit on the parts. Try looking for 1939 Desoto Parts, even at the major swap meets such as Hershey they are very few and when you do find something and a seller knows what it fits the cost is relative. So if you want to play inthe antique car hobby and have an older car then you are going to have to pay the prices even thought they might be higher than what you expect to pay. Supply and demand is the major player for all of us. Rich Hartung

I just did a search on ebay 4015 bulb and found six listings. Some are clear bulbs and some are yellow. Depends on what style you are looking for. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Since you already have taken the engine apart I would take the entire block to an machine shop or and engine builder and have the entire dipped in cleaning solutions to clean-out the old grease and junk that you can not see and easily get at with your hands. This will clean the block completely so you will have a better idea if anything else need to ordered. It also cleanout the scale and rust on the inside of the block. Spend the money now you will appreciate that you did later on. Just my 2 cents on input. Rich Hartung

SO a 1939 Desoto is model S6, 1938 Desoto is an S5, Rich Hartung

two years ago i had 5 tires removed from the rims, installed 5 new tubes, balanced and mounted for my 1939 600x16 tires at my local PepBoys store. They charged my $17.00 for each tire. They installed the Goodyear Airwheel tire with the ribs on the outside sidewall and they where also whitewall tires. Rich hartung

Purchased a Brake Fluid Tester Pen on the ebay for around $4 plus tax and free shipping. Since we all know that regular brake fluid will draw water and this is what can cause the wheel cylinders to get issues along with the brake fluid in the lines. I decided to purchase one of these pens to get a reading on my brake fluid in my cars and also in a used but sealed tight bottle of Dot3 Brake fluid. The Dot 3 was approx 5 or more year old and possibly even older. Poured some into a paper cup to test the fluid. The 4 light lite up which informed me that the fluid had too much water inthe fluid and the system instructed to get rid of the container. I tested the brake fluid in my cars and they all registered safely with not issue. Also tested my silicon brake fluid and that even register perfectly good. Silicon should not accept any water build up. There are 5 lights on the pen, 1st is the battery check and turns on the pens. Then each light tells the percentage of water in the fluid. When the lights register red then the fluid is bad. Rich Hartung

Yes most of the older members of the forum do remember his posts of just driving the wayback machine and with cooper in the car withhim and then taking some pictures of the car parked in a very scenic spot along side the road out in the country. He lived a full life. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Sniper: if you had read my first statement, To make the job easier if you are replacing the original horn wire. The instruction is to make everyone aware of the tube that is inside the steering box since you can not see the opening to thread the wire back down into the tube this is a way to help get the wire pulled back safely into the tube. Also since this guy does not have a current horn wire he is still going to need to fish a wire or weed wacker strip up the steering column. Hartung

To make the job easier if you are replacing the original horn wire. Since the horn wire runs up through the steering box there is a tube in which the wire goes through so the wire gets disconnected at the bottom of the steering box and is pulled out through the end at the steering wheel. But, remember the little tube that the wire has to go through when reinstalling the wire. Here is my trick I tape a wire to the end of the connection at the bottom of the steering box. Make sure the tape is tight and pull on it to make sure it does not come apart. Then start to pull the wire out from the steering wheel end. When the new wire is visible then disconnect the old horn wire. Then with the new horn wire retape it to the wire that i now coming out at the steering wheel. Now you can slowly pull the new horn wire back down the steering shaft and through the tube and out the end of the steering box. Just take your time. This does work and will save alot of frustration when installing a new horn wire. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Have you pulled off the distributor cap and rotor? Check to see if the breaker plate that holds the points and condenser is not loose. There should be some movement but no slop. A friend of mine has a 39 Desoto just like me and he was getting popping and stalling similar to what you are having. We took it to my old time mechanic and he pulled the cap and rotor and showed us that the breaker plate assembly was loose and needed to be replaced. Came back to my garage pulled the dizzy replaced with a NOS breaker plate and this solved the pbm. If the plate has never been replaced suggest that you get a NOS one. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Binster: instead of getting rims and used tires I would get the roller kits inwhich you jack up the car and place the roller wheel bracket under each wheel then you can move the car into tight places. Buy something that can be used again and when you are done then sell them. you can get them for around 140 for four on ebay Rich Hartung

Go to the download section i downloaded the Borg warner timing chain catalog. Which will provide a great deal of info onthe various chains used in out cars. Rich Hartung

For all of us antique car and truck owners. Cold and moisture are our biggest issues when storing our old vehicles. I have owned my 1939 Desoto for 35 years. Since I have owner the car i have placed used rugs under the car that covers the entire under area and also so that the tires are also on the rug. I you have Bias Ply tires most of the time they will develop flat spots from sitting on the concrete floor. When having a rug under each tire this preents the bias ply tire from developing a flat spot. It does work, I never have any flat spots when pulling my car out of the garage. Also the full used rug also help prevent any moisture from coming up thru the concrete. Also it now permits me to be able to lay on the floor and not have to be on cold concrete. There isa major car collector in my area and every car that he has on display each tire sits on a piece of rug and he even verified that this prevents flat spots and he has cars that are over 100k in value. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Thanksgiving has finally arrived. want to wish everyone and their families and extended families and friend a Happy Thanksgiving Holiday. If you are driving to celebrate please drive safe. Today is the time to cherish the time with loved ones and also to remember any friends and family that have departed. Always remember the good times because they out trump the bad times. Today near valley forge park which is basically in my back yard is where General Washington and his troops spent the winter months protecting our future country to insure that we all currently has the rights and freedom that so many other countries do not grant to their citizens. When you give thanks at the dinner table this evening also remember these brave soldiers that help win our freedom from England and also our current soldiers that we have stationed in other countries. Now the hectic season is upon us with all of the purchasing of those special Xmas presents, baking cookies, decorating the house, cutting down the xmas tree or just putting the fake one and then trimming it out with the lights and the garland. Rich Hartung, Desoto1939@aol.com

binster: so you stated that the engine has nor run on its own for over the past 10 years and there is no water or AF in the block and you live in Iowa. So if the engine block is dry with no water then why are you concerned now after 10 years of not having any water or Af in the block. When you eplaced the welsh plug if there was any water it would have run out when the plug was removed. Just leave it alone. May be suggest that you put some marvel mystery oil down each plug and cylinder hole and then manually turn the engine over by hand just to keep the cylinder wals lubed with a coating of oil so they do not get any rust from condensation from the air. Suggest that you turn the engine over at least every or every other month to keep things free and loose. Just my 2 cents of FYI. Rich hartung

IVAN: i doubt that you are going to find these caps still in perfect condition since they willnow be about 84 years old and rubber parts just get hard a brittle. The 90 degree angle sparkplug connectors are available but again you are looking to find something that is again 84 years old, might find them. Next big question are you planning to have this car judged at an AACA car show or at the Plymouth owner car show? Most judges do not know if the sparkplg angle connector is the original or an after market item. Sometimes you just have to go with what is available and if it looks period correct then most do not say anything. Also 99% of the people looking at your car do not even know what the correct engine and parts are for the 1940 Plymouth, most of these experts are now dead that did any work on these cars. So again what is your intention for the displaying or judging of your car. If you ever go to a major car show there are lots of reproduction parts on some of the Senior cars and some are even made specifically for an owner. Rich Hartung

Ivan: I just looked in my 1936-42 Desoto Master parts book under the electrical section, and I just found what you might be looking for as documentation on the sparkplug cover. I just learned something about my car and for the other Mopar cars. So the items that the guy is selling for the WWII jeeps might be correct for your car. The rubber spark plug cover was first used in 1938 and up thru 1942 as per my catalog. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Ivan: i just did a search on Ebay and found what you are looking for: These are Bakelite plastic shield there also is another type that are rubber but are cone shaped. These seller sells these for WWII jeeps and they come in set of four. These are not correct for your 1940 Plymouth the ever-Dry is the correct accessory that was sold by the dealerships. WWII ford GPW GPA ✅(A1096-BAK) Ignition Spark Plug Rain Shield Bakelite, QT4 JMP here is the lisiting for the rubber ones: willys MB ford GPW ✅(A1096-RUB) Rubber Spark Plug Rain Shields ▲ non conductive▲

Here is the instruction sheet from the ever-dry kit showing the angled sparkplug metal connector. Rich Hartung

for whats it worth in the technical section I posted a link to the Borg warner timing chain catalog that I recently purchased at the Hershey swap meet. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

When you rebuilt the carb and I am assuming it was a Ball&Ball carb. when you replaced the two small ball bearing in the base of bowel did you put the correct one back into the correct corresponding hole. These are small ball bearing but are different sizes. So this also might be the problem. When rebuilding a carb I always suggest tht you have several egg cardboard cartoons ready and then number each hole and then put each part as you take it off the carb into the next corresponding slot. So that when you go to reassemble the carb you are selecting the appropriate parts in reverse order. Just a thought on your situation. Do you know anyone that might have a condensers testing gage to determine if the condensers are holding the correct microdiodes. Een brand new condensers can sometime be bad. I prefer the good old NOS Autolite condensers. Also might spay some WD 40 along the intake and exhaust to see if the car runs better under load. If the engine runs better when doing this then you have a vacuum leak in that area. Rich Hartung

To be really safe only jack up the front and leave the rear touching the floor. The front brake drums are easier to get off the spindle. Put the jack stands under the car like the what kencombs stated. Also on the side that you are working on also put your floor jack under the frame on the same side for extra support. Then when that set of brakes is done then install the drum and tire and rim and bolt it tight. Lower the floor jack and then go to the other side and place the floor jack under the car. When done install the tire and rim. Then jack up the car and remove each jack stand. Rear loosen the bolts or lug nuts on the wheels. Jacku p the rear end and place jack stands out as far as you can but leave room to work behind the backing plate. Get you three or four arm drum puller. Screw out the castle nut to the end of the axle, DO NOT TAKE OFF the castle nut. Put on the wheel pullerr. bring it up tight agains t the end of the axle. Hit the dig Bone end with a 5 lb hammer. It might take several times but the drum will pop off. This is why you left the castle nut on the end of the axle. Pull the drum off with the key. Do the same for the other wheel. I also keep the floor jack under the center of the rear pumpkin ask extra support. Do one wheel at a time so you have an example to alway refer back to. Complete both wheels, Adjust the clearence according to your manual for your car. Bleed the brakes if needed right rear, left rear, right front then left front. After bleeding the brake also check the brake pedal to reset the shoes. Also have extra brake fluid on hand to efilll the master cylincder as needed. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

here is the info on the starter selinoid that Bingster was talking about. Autolite Starter Controls Soleinods.pdf