Sniper

A resurfaced flywheel doesn't mean it's evenly resurfaced, ran into that issue before. Put a dial indicator on it and see what the run out is.

Disc, the way the holes are machines a cupped one won't work properly.

Might hit the judged car shows and use those as a reference?

I got a new company truck about three months ago, Silverado 1500 with the 2.7L turbo motor. I had a Silverado 2500 with the 6.0L V8. I am surprised that the 4 banger seems to do fine power wise, not so much better on mileage though. I have no idea how it will tow, though it does have the factory tow package. I do not like the tow mirrors it has, blocks way too much of the view out the windows when I am looking for cross traffic at an intersection, been a few near misses there. I also dislike the lane keeping feature and the automatic braking. My BMW has auto braking and it is smooth, the Chevy is like an on/off switch. The lane keeping feature will fight you, got pulled over when the truck was real new for that, under 500 miles at the time. At the time I didn't know what had been going on.

It's been a long time since I changed a clutch but I don't remember them wobbling on the input shaft. I would highly recommend you just get your old one rebuilt. There's a place in Tennessee I think that seems to be a good one maybe somebody could pipe up with the name?

I think we need to define what the OP means by restoration. Typically, that means as it left the factory. All the factory bolts in the factory locations, wires run like the factory did it with the proper color codes and sizing, the correct markings on the parts, proper hoses, belts, etc. If that is what the OP is asking for, then no there is no assembly manual for that. You will have to do that yourself, take pics, ask for pics, hit up the car shows and ask questions, take a ton of notes, use the parts and service manual to elaborate where they can. Join the Plymouth Owner' Club. It will not be quick, or cheap. Now if you are just asking for a car that looks good, drives, stops and steers good, then the price drops, a lot. A good shop should be able to do that without too much fuss. There is a thread here where a HS kid went through a 47 Plymouth, lots of pictures, advice and such. Not sure how much it will help with a 48 but here it is.

Did a bit of quick research, online shopping only, not sure how/if in store pricing might change things. Autolite 306 plugs, price one each, not sure how/if shipping changes for 6. Tax not included but obviously the more you pay for the plugs the more taxes you get to pay too. Rock auto $1.89, $10.99 shipping Napa $3.99. in stock Autozone $1.99, home delivery only, free delivery Oct 23 O'reilly Auto. $1.99 next day to store Advance Auto $1.99, home delivery only, $9.99 Car Quest redirects to Advance Auto So in my case, best price is O'reilly, next day, If I have it have it NOW! Napa is the only one in stock at the store. If I were to be buying more than plugs and if they all come from the same warehouse it might make sense to throw a set of plugs on my next RA order.

Rockauto shows to have Autolite 306's

Yes, I told you it was a PITB. But I'd rather replace it at the time of my choosing, in my garage rather than having it let go on the side of the road somewhere.

My philosophy, after playing the replace only the leaky one game, is that once one starts leaking the rest aren't far behind. So I replace them all, yes a PITB, but that's how I am.

Again Bullwinkle?

Why do jacks always disappear? I don't have the original one either, so I just bought a scissors jack to do the deed. Oh, I noticed you have a chock, I almost found out the hard way, you need chocks. That parking brake doesn't do diddly with one rear wheel in the air.

My local NAPA recently moved to a bigger place. Autozone was the closest parts store with them being a block further away. The NAPA is now my closest parts store, yay. They are about three blocks from the house.

You are exactly right.

THHN wire is really not for automobiles. You want wire specifically for automotive use and THHN is not it. It's fine to wire your house but your house doesn't have the heat, grease, oil or gasoline in the mix an automotive application will have.

Interesting, because as I understand it, the pattern on those axles is the same as many later model ones. I have an 11" drum setup from a Diplomat lying around, somewhere, lol. I might offer them up and see. This it https://p15-d24.com/topic/35125-tapered-axle-modification/https://p15-d24.com/topic/35125-tapered-axle-modification/

Way back in my sailor days I used to work on a lot of gear that had tubes. Open heater circuits are the number one failure mode of tubes. The heaters are always running because the tubes won't work without them, so even if the tube isn't being used the heater is running, so that part fails most commonly. If it ain't glowing, it's bad, lol. That is also why tube radios don;t turn on instantly, till the tubes heat up they won't conduct. Now granted there are tubes out there that you cannot see the heater filaments, but those aren't used in our stuff. You did good.

I think you need to reread what was posted and look very closely at how it was wired.

Except those are the 8 3/4 axles and I am pretty sure the backing plates do not swap, easily.

I think your pricing might be a little optimistic and I'm pretty sure none of the Piston manufacturers is going to be interested in doing anything like that unless you want to pay for them to do all the research and everything. In which case those fancy $1,000 for Pistons will end up being cheaper LOL

The freewheeling Tony Smith has Pistons like that and they cost a heck of a lot more than just a little bit. I think they have to use a custom rod too which only Jacks the price up even more.

You might try French Lake Auto Parts.

I just wish someone made moly faced rings for our engines, I am sure you could pay thru the nose for a set of custom rings. I have a 318 with factory moly rings that have well over 10k miles on it and you can still see the crosshatch in the bores. In any case, if you go chrome you will need machine work and pay close attention to the break in procedures and get your machinist's advice as well.

There really aren't any, unless by modern you mean made recently. If you mean modern design, not really. You have cast iron (bore eaters) and chrome faced (temperamental to break in) as your choices.

I am real leery of stuff painted like that one is, spray can rebuild comes to mind. I'd price it as a core if I was looking at it.