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Sniper

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Everything posted by Sniper

  1. Rockauto shows to have Autolite 306's
  2. Yes, I told you it was a PITB. But I'd rather replace it at the time of my choosing, in my garage rather than having it let go on the side of the road somewhere.
  3. My philosophy, after playing the replace only the leaky one game, is that once one starts leaking the rest aren't far behind. So I replace them all, yes a PITB, but that's how I am.
  4. Again Bullwinkle?
  5. Why do jacks always disappear? I don't have the original one either, so I just bought a scissors jack to do the deed. Oh, I noticed you have a chock, I almost found out the hard way, you need chocks. That parking brake doesn't do diddly with one rear wheel in the air.
  6. My local NAPA recently moved to a bigger place. Autozone was the closest parts store with them being a block further away. The NAPA is now my closest parts store, yay. They are about three blocks from the house.
  7. You are exactly right.
  8. THHN wire is really not for automobiles. You want wire specifically for automotive use and THHN is not it. It's fine to wire your house but your house doesn't have the heat, grease, oil or gasoline in the mix an automotive application will have.
  9. Interesting, because as I understand it, the pattern on those axles is the same as many later model ones. I have an 11" drum setup from a Diplomat lying around, somewhere, lol. I might offer them up and see. This it https://p15-d24.com/topic/35125-tapered-axle-modification/https://p15-d24.com/topic/35125-tapered-axle-modification/
  10. Way back in my sailor days I used to work on a lot of gear that had tubes. Open heater circuits are the number one failure mode of tubes. The heaters are always running because the tubes won't work without them, so even if the tube isn't being used the heater is running, so that part fails most commonly. If it ain't glowing, it's bad, lol. That is also why tube radios don;t turn on instantly, till the tubes heat up they won't conduct. Now granted there are tubes out there that you cannot see the heater filaments, but those aren't used in our stuff. You did good.
  11. I think you need to reread what was posted and look very closely at how it was wired.
  12. Except those are the 8 3/4 axles and I am pretty sure the backing plates do not swap, easily.
  13. I think your pricing might be a little optimistic and I'm pretty sure none of the Piston manufacturers is going to be interested in doing anything like that unless you want to pay for them to do all the research and everything. In which case those fancy $1,000 for Pistons will end up being cheaper LOL
  14. The freewheeling Tony Smith has Pistons like that and they cost a heck of a lot more than just a little bit. I think they have to use a custom rod too which only Jacks the price up even more.
  15. You might try French Lake Auto Parts.
  16. I just wish someone made moly faced rings for our engines, I am sure you could pay thru the nose for a set of custom rings. I have a 318 with factory moly rings that have well over 10k miles on it and you can still see the crosshatch in the bores. In any case, if you go chrome you will need machine work and pay close attention to the break in procedures and get your machinist's advice as well.
  17. There really aren't any, unless by modern you mean made recently. If you mean modern design, not really. You have cast iron (bore eaters) and chrome faced (temperamental to break in) as your choices.
  18. I am real leery of stuff painted like that one is, spray can rebuild comes to mind. I'd price it as a core if I was looking at it.
  19. As far as I'm aware of the fat man dropped spindles but only for the independent front suspension
  20. Actually... lol, modern coil designs are a good step up from the old canister ones, but, alas, I do not believe they are setup for a 6v ignition.
  21. Careful or MoParPro will swoop in and steal your idea. Rich, even though I am not in the market, I appreciate your efforts in this area.
  22. Your friend has no idea how the ammeter circuit works. The only current it should be measuring is what is going to or from the battery, not the fuse panel.
  23. Sheet metal isn't the issue, again, if I recall correctly, but rather the frame itself. Measure the clearance between the top of the spring to the frame, then subtract the height of the axle and attaching stuff, that will give you your clearances.
  24. Your pictures aren't loading. I had a 38 Plymouth, decades ago. IIRC, the distance between the frame rail and the axle tube would be minimal after this swap.
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