Sniper
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Everything posted by Sniper
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The parts you mentioned, I found the website, your link worked.
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I believe the op said there was no wire. In that case some weed wacker string does the trick
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I couldn't find it?
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A generic small block Mopar swap kit would probably work just as well
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I just used a pop rivet for the button head under the horn button. Took the center out of the pop rivet and crimped it. For the other end I believe it was one of those blue bullet connectors work just fine
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If you are looking to get into these cars for money, well I hope it's losing money you are wishing for because making money isn't going to happen. No, it doesn't add anything to it's value. Maybe if it was in pristine, unrestored condition it might make for something interesting for the auctioneer to claim.
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My parts manual shows two different shifter setups, one for standard transmission the other for Gyromatic, Tip Toe Shift and under drive transmissions. None of which show a separate rod for reverse.
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Depends on how you use the car too. Trailer queen that only drives on and off the trailer, who cares. Daily driver? Well you'll probably wear them out before you age them out. If it's just you driving, versus the wife and kids, well I love them, sort of, lol.
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You bring up a good point about the tie rod ends. When I tested those Mopar cop car rims with a spacer so it wouldn't crash into the upright it was extremely close to the tie rod
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I am running later model Chrysler 300 / Dodge Charger / Challenger rims on the back of my 51. They fit just fine but they're 17 in. In the front I need a bit of a spacer to clear but they fit the backs just fine.
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What would be really nice as a good source of timing chains and gears. Starting to get thin on the ground and I fear that pretty soon these engines will be very expensive to rebuild Vice just plain expensive
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That's what the accessory position of the ignition switch is for. Powering everything but the ignition system up so you do not burn out your points.
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As long as you're not driving around on them I don't see a problem. However 225/75/15 are kind of big they might actually hit. I know when I put 225 60 r15s on Mopar cop car rims they hit the upright
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Any places to NOT use anti-seize on flathead bolts?
Sniper replied to '41 Fat Bottom Girl's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The specified lubricant for factory torque values is 30wt oil, unless otherwise directed. Using antisieze lessens that value about 15%, which means if you are using the factory specs and antisieze you are over tightening the fasteners. -
The fan belt has nothing to do with timing.
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I don't see the exhaust flapper being stuck mentioned.
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Might not hurt to put a torque wrench on those steering box mounting bolts. I did on mine and they weren't to spec.
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I had a 38 years ago, I do recall that it did have a sway bar. However, I do not recall it having that bar the OP is asking about. It almost looks link a link to keep the ale from moving fore and aft. Here's a video someone posted that doesn't show it Allpar's write up on the 38 shows a sway bar https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-glamour-car-plymouth-for-1938.227894/#post-1085221992
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This is a great question. Certain NOS items, imo, are not the best choice. Things like rubber or cloth as part of the material used can and do deteriorate sitting on the shelf. Sometimes that's your only choice though, which makes it a conundrum.
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Where the jack stands go really depends on what you're trying to do. There's another post recently where somebody thinks something's binding in their steering. In that case I would put the jack stands under the control arms so that I could get under the car and observe the steering and it's normal position without the wheels hanging down. I wouldn't put them under the control arms because I would want the arms the group to make more room to do the brakes. So it just depends. Same thing for the rear if I need to take the rear tires off I got to have the axle drooping otherwise I don't have room. No I do not have stock with tires LOL
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All I can say is ask them. It appears that those bushings are in the kit but I'm not 100% sure
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https://www.moparmall.com/Front-Rear-Spring-Shackle-Bushing-Set-for-1936-p/360-021.htm
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Wouldn't that would be your vehicle that was not properly maintained? Not too hard to find the source of that problem, fixing it though is another story,
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Plumbing solder/flux is usually acid based, use electronic solder and flux. Yes, you want good strain relief to prevent this from happening again. When I rewired my 51 every connection was crimped, soldered and heat shrinked. Then the wire runs were taped together using cloth electrical tape for further relief.
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My 51 had no issues running during snowmageddon a couple years back. Got close to zero here for about a week. To be honest though, when it gets that cold with snow on the roads I don't generally go out at all. But I had to get groceries, no power at my house, power in other parts of town, lol. Needed more gas for my generator, unless I wanted to siphon, no thanks. Heater was so so, still need to address that.
