Sniper
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Posts
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Everything posted by Sniper
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I used to have an old Opel wagon that would pop out of third if you didn't hold it. I used to shift from 2nd to 4th most of the time but lot's of times I needed third.
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Out them n my P23, raised the front end up quite a bit over the 70+ year old originals. I have no idea what it is compared to the stock original ride height. . Handling was improved quite a bit, again compared to 70+ year old original springs. I also put in performance gas charged shocks. Yes the Moog springs are shorter, unloaded. Loaded, they sit higher due to the increase in spring rate over the originals.
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Your starter solenoid should have three terminals two big ones and a little one one of those alligators Clips goes on the little one and the other alligator clip goes on to the big one that has the cable hook to the battery
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If I recall correctly, when I was looking into that specific booster setup it was only good for drum brakes?
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PCV's work backwards of how I'd think they would. minimal flow at high vacuum, max flow at no vacuum. But if you think of it with regards to blow by, then it makes sense, minimal blow by at idle, maximum at WOT. https://haynes.com/en-us/tips-tutorials/what-pcv-valve-and-what-does-it-do Keeping that in mind will help you tune the areas most affected.
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Well, the PCV is a metered vacuum leak so retuning isn't unexpected.
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Do your research. Plenum volume comes to mind.
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That would be dependent on the kit used. In the download section I added the instructions for the Rusty Hope kit I used, it has that info, for the most part. I also, in this forum, ran thru my thoughts on that kit. That kit has it's issues, as do the instruction it included. My thread adds the info it should have and details into issues I saw.
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WD40 has it's uses. I used it as a prewash after I get home from the range. Does a decent job of washing carbon out of places. As a cleaner, yeah, as a permanent lubricant, no. A nice dry film lubricant comes to mind, you don't want something sticky catch grit and tearing things up.
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Good luck is all I got to say. I think George Asche makes, or made, one. Other than that, Ebay.
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Sounds like you lock nut isn't locking like it should be. This let's the lash open up.
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It really isn't about the number of entrances so much as it is about better fuel distribution. With the stock 1bbl intake the center intake port is overly rich compared to the outer two intake ports. Remember, there are on three intake ports in the block. Each port is shared by two cylinders.
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I wonder if he can spell ridiculous? Yes, I am a spelling nazi, lol. No lol. 👀
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I would run a separate circuit for each set of lights. heck, I run a separate circuit for hi and low beams on my 12v setups.
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Well, the seller is asking $3.5k for it. Which is way out of line, imo, but I just wanted a reality check from those here. I have been sort of keeping an eye out for one, never seen one that was under $1k. At that route, I'll just swap in one of the A833OD's I have.
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I do not believe I have seen even the most wore out, scrungiest looking core R10 anywhere near $500. They usually ask $1000 or more, not sure what they actually get though.
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I appreciate it.
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I know what the seller is asking for it. I'd like to get some input from The Forum on what the consensus is for a good price. I'll let you all know what he's asking but I don't want to bias any opinions right now. I don't know the person they claim it's still in the crate George shipped it in. I don't know if they have any documentation but I can ask
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Got a line on an OD trans, thinking about it for my 51 Cambridge. Supposedly it's been gone thru by George Asche, which if true is a good thing. Pretty sure it's a bolt in as well. Setup for 12v, which is fine since my 51 is a 12v car nowadays. Anyway, what's a fair price? I've seen used boneyard refugees on Ebay going asking $1k which is about twice as much as I think they are worth, lol.
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I call mine Sally, after a girl I knew in HS and still keep in contact with.
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Here;s what I used
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250 ft/lbs minimum
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Changes in dwell can affect timing, however the culprit is the dwell not the timing, the timing change is a symptom. Just put a dwell meter on it and see how it acts above and below the RPM level where you're seeing the issue. That will help sort it out -
I once made the Kessel run in 12 parsecs.
