Sniper

I have occasionally pointed people here with regards to answering questions they had, but since the forum was closed to guests I don't do that anymore.

You live in Bell County? Not too far from me. Used to lie in Killeen in the mid/late 90's,

You had best ask the maker of the adapter what's up. I can bet that it's a no go if I were a betting man.

Yes, my 51 Cambridge did that as well. It was the tip of the needle that was messed up. I just did a good cleaning and rebuild on it. http://www.yourolddad.com/carb-rebuild

The problem with leaving the windows cracked a bit for air circulation is that mud daubers get in there and make nests

I imagine the owner's manual would show you what the various switches do and you could infer their location? You probably don't have one but you may be able to buy one

I can remember when I was a kid my old man having to bring the battery in during the winter on a 70 Buick Skylark. So yeah cold weather starts for 12 volt cars were problematic in many cases as well. And you may have a point about electronic ignition and other advances but you know what starts up on the coldest days no problem but I stay on top of the maintenance as well like anything if you ignore it long enough it'll quit working

Great to hear. Now you can offer solenoid rewinding services, lol

When I first started driving incandescent headlights were the norm. In 1986 I bought my first new car, a Daytona. It had halogen bulbs and I thought they were the greatest things. Many years later, and many rides later, I got a set of Hella H4 housings for my daily drier, what a difference. Still halogens but with good optics, not your off the shelf mass produced good enough stuff like what I had been using since forever. For the Cambridge I stepped up to good housings sporting LED bulbs. The difference was similar to going from incandescent bulbs straight to the Hellas (skipping regular halogens). I would venture to state that the head lights in my 51 are now as good as the headlights in my 2015 BMW.

Ii think the biggest issue with 6v, especially when they were new and in daily driver status, is that there is little reserve. Remember having to pull the battery and keep it inside during cold weather? Combine a cold battery with thick oil due to low temperatures and cold weather starts were interesting. Not too sure many of us drive them in those conditions any more.

51 was the first year for the Hemi in a Chrysler

Many years ago my wife had a Redbone Coon hound she just loved. I worked weekends out of town. Left for work on Friday and by the time I got back on Monday I had no dog and a $1500 vet bill. I forget the details, I think his kidneys shutdown, but whatever. The wife was the dog person in the house. I like dogs, don't get me wrong, but I do not like being a dog owner. I, personally, would not have spent that kind of money but when your wife is on the phone crying you tell her "money is no object". She's one of those people that think dogs are people in furry coats. Me? I think they are dogs. Short time with us, usually wonderful to be around, but they pass, all too soon sometimes. I do not get emotionally attached to them like she did. I feel for those of you that lost your best friends.

LazyK beat me to the punch. I mentioned a cabinet blaster earlier, well the shop also had a large, walking, your suit up to blast cabinet. You could fit a Beetle in one. We experimented with various media to blast fiberglass. Some sort of plastic looking pellets. It worked, but was tedious to do. The method we normally used to strip paint off of fiberglass was paint stripper. It worked, but was fairly nasty stuff. Soda blasting is supposed to be gentler, but I hae zero experience with that. No idea how quick/slow it may be, how long thee media is useable, etc. HOWEVER, and this is very important, if you have an oil pan with baffles anything else will be a big no no. Soda blasting residue can be easily washed away. Sand/garnet/slag etc will leave a residue that is hard to clean and will destroy your engine if you do not get it all out.

I haven't used a sand blaster since my time in the military. we had your standard cabinet style with dust collector and such. It worked fine, but it was messy adn I'll be darned if I remember who made it. Used a CO2 blaster when I worked in semiconductor R&D, no blasting residue. But you need to have dry ice blocks handy.

One other thing to seriously think about, your stock wiring is probably toast or close to it if original. While you can get the correct 6v rated harnesses new in many cases they aren't cheap. If you put in a generic "hot rod" harness like the PO of my 51 did (real hack job too) it's not rated to handle the current a 6v system runs thru it. I ripped it out, put in a new hot rod harness and converted to 12, didn't count the cost of the harness in the conversion as it was required regardless.

My primary issue with a 6v car is head lights. I drive my stuff, regularly. In rain, snow, shine or whatever. With regards to incandescent head lights, well I may as well hang my Zippo out the window for all the good those lights do. I believe Keith did a write up on 6v LED headlights awhile back, not too impressive. I know a guy that is really into automotive lighting and he's pretty much death on retrofit LED headlight bulbs and has the data to back it up. I am running a set of GE Nighthawk LED headlight assemblies in my 51. They light up like modern lights, as they should since they are designed as a unit and not as a bulb retrofit. Anyway, to each their own.

Yes 5 qts but how much of that is in the filter? I was watching Engine Masters the other day and they did a dyno test on oil amount in the engine. They found that, invariably, as long as oil pressure was sufficient, lower oil level in the pan made HP. In some cases they found that pressure went up as the level was dropped. The thinking was that less oil was whipped up and aerated causing better pressure and less HP consumed. Now this was on an engine dyno so no vehicle dynamics were involved. However, they found that even deep sump aftermarket pans benefited from being filled to less than capacity, such as a "7qt " pan filled with 5 quarts. Not sure I'd want to experiment too much with this though. Especially if you have and oil leaker, lol.

powerflite is a two speed automatic

Why is it whenever anyone asks how to convert to 12v the anti-12v crowd jumps in with why not to? If they asked the pros and cons, yeah that would be appropriate. If you want any sort of electrical accessory you are either stuck with archaic, poor performing 6v stuff, Am radio (or beaucoup $ conversion), poor headlight choice (6v incandescent or crappy LEDs). It is what it is.

My answer was a little lacking in detail, I was on thee road using my phone. Here's the valve guide picture from Tony https://www.facebook.com/thefreewheelingtonysmith/posts/pfbid02DEDHDF8oDH4At7zqLpbdj4yX9ybU4LEwpbEYi61TjEXyShNvaDHy84M1feqYGg7Tl How long a guide do you need? https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19767 Assuming a 218/230 length * 1.15 * stem diameter = 4.845 * 1.15 * 0.3405 = 1.89" Stock guide length is 2.813" So almost an inch can come out of the guide length, all of it from the port window.

Two things, the static level will drop as the pump cycles oil thru the system and as you drive the car the oil will slosh around changing the eleel. Then there is windage, as the crank spins it will trap a portion of the oil in it's orbit. So, your actual level will be less. The oring is insurance.

You trim down the portion that sticks in the port. The freewheeling Tony Smith has some info on his Facebook site

Last eclipse we had, couple of months ago, I showed a friend (23) that trick, she had no idea.

Yeah, the stock exhaust is a cork. So are the stock valve guides. Anything else done without addressing them is less than optimal.

https://www.vintageautotools.com/tools-carburetor-gm-all-divisions.html scroll down, or search T109-70 on the page. $10.