Sam Buchanan

Yep, a new tank is the final solution and the only one that guarantees a trouble-free future. Pay a little more than what the repair costs and be done.

Or.....have him add a bung with 1/8" NPT threads so you can connect a new fuel line and plug the old filtered line.

There is nothing like B/W prints made from a large-format (4x5 or larger) negative. Georgous.

I don't recall what size fittings but they are the same as found on brake lines with "American" (not metric) threads. No need to order this stuff, just source it from a local auto parts store as needed. That way you can return items that either don't fit or you don't need. I plumbed the entire fuel and brake systems on my P15 with brake lines purchased locally.

Then there is the rubber hose held to your ear method.....

If the linkage or shift forks are messed up it probably wasn't in neutral.....may have been freewheeling in a gear until whatever it is popped and sent power to the rear end.

I suspect you have a freshly rebuilt engine. The fact it wasn't in a vehicle probably means it has no mileage. Good score!

If what you have is working well then that's all you need. The only point I will make in regard to your post is that 0 gauge cables are not expensive and are readily available. I used this vendor and had my custom-made cables in about a week. Two battery cables, a chassis ground cable and a starter cable were $40 shipped to my door. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg

I think metal lines would be more prone to vapor lock than rubber lines. See if you can get your filter farther from the exhaust manifold, having it that close is most likely heating the fuel.

To assist someone who isn't concerned with originality, here are the sills I made from running board rubber. The front is the new one, the rear either original or a reproduction. I can't find the eBay vendor where I bought the material but here is something similar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/200416841509?hash=item2ea9c64f25:g:-FsAAMXQ9MVRhdZx I bought material wide enough to split to make two sills. The original, rusted metal sills were removed and aluminum sheet riveted in their place. The rubber was glued to the aluminum.

I wanted to make sure the cover didn't leak so went bonkers when sealing it back up with fuel tank sealant. The large gasket should seal the bore the shift rail rides in but I took extra care sealing the gasket in that area. It worked.

I run the cheapest 87 that has been contaminated with ethanol and my '48 P15 is happy. More importantly I usually only put in 4-5 gallons to keep the gas fresher. There are no problems with mixing different octanes in the same tank.

I'm not worried about the switch, I have a method for quickly bypassing it. Guess this goes back to my aircraft building background where we try to eliminate as many single-point failure modes as possible. But the most dangerous single-failure point in our cars is the nut holding the steering wheel....... ? This guy had it figured out a hundred years ago: You know you've achieved perfection in design, not when you have nothing more to add, but when you have nothing more to take away. --Antoine de Saint-Exupery

The switch is Ford but there are also generic ones available. Here is the Ford switch I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233966503511?fits=Make%3AFord&epid=1817778782&hash=item36797d8657:g:uLIAAOSwzIVZcyS4 I have mixed feelings about the inertia switch, not fully convinced it is really an advantage. It creates a single point of failure in an electrical pump only system. I wired mine with male-female connectors where if it fails open I can unplug the wires and replug them bypassing the switch but it has been reliable so far. If in a minor accident, just reach over and turn off the key and the pump stops. If in a major crash in our old car......it probably won't matter...... I eliminated the mechanical pump...why keep it?

Same here except no dash switch. Pump is located on frame near rear axle. The polarity of the car makes no difference, a pump can be wired either way. The inertia switch is a personal decision, I ran the pump for a year before deciding to install one. Mine is on the firewall.

All of the classic car policies I've had have been based on agreed value with no funky clauses....that is why I buy them instead of just adding the classic cars to my daily driver policy. I'm one of those OCD types that actually reads the policy. ? I'm not familiar with policies that have stated value or some rinky dink definition of agreed value....I wouldn't pay anything for one of those.

Rich, go back and reread my post carefully. I said "due to one being actual cash value and the other agreed value". The F150 (a 2013 pickup truck) is actual cash value and the classic car policy is agreed value. I am very clear on how these two coverages apply. The following is a quote from the definitions page of my policy: "Agreed Value means the value of the vehicle at the inception date of the policy that you and we agree on. You agree that we may change this amount when the policy is renewed to reflect current costs and values." I'm thinking Agreed means......agreed. Now, if a fire consumes my garage and it is evident that the engine, fenders, and all running gear had been missing from my car at the time of the fire and were nowhere to be found, the insurance company would most likely have issues with my claim. But that is an extreme example and doesn't reflect usual protocol. They expect the car to be in at least as good a condition as it was when I submitted photos to them when the policy was written. They actually told me my requested agreed value of the TR6 was lower than market value and incouraged me to increase coverage, which I did with no additional premium. There are some conditions placed on value of spare parts lost/damaged, values may be reduced due to depreciation or wear. This may be what is causing some confusion in this discussion. But there are no statements amending the agreed value of the vehicle in my policy. I just don't see the problem here.

Well...this is interesting. I pulled my SafeCo auto insurance policy for the F150 and laid it next to the American Modern policy I buy from Heacock Classic for the Plymouth and TR6 and the liability and medical coverages are nearly identical. There is a difference in how comp and collision is covered due to one being actual cash value and the other agreed value but I don't see any gaps in coverage for the classic car policy. The Heacock policy has towing coverage which my F150 policy doesn't have. I assume the lower premium for the classic policy is due to restrictions on storage and lower mileage (risk exposure) expected with the classic cars. They probably also assume I'm less likely to use the P15 as a battering ram on the idiot who pulls out in front of me than I am with the F150. ? If Hagerty has gaps in their policies anyone with one might want to take a close look at it....but I suspect it is similar to the policy I have. ?

I purchased a driver's side glass for my P15 from this vendor: https://www.sandersreproglass.com/ The glass fit perfectly, was shipped securely and I think the price was very reasonable. I got the pencil grind on the edges.

One more suggestion....once you get the carb working nicely move that fuel fliter away from the exhaust manifold. When the manifold heats up the filter you are likely to see vapor lock problems.

The main reason for my "metallic disk" comment was the implication not to use some sort of plastic-like material. It would function fine on the filter until exposed to high temp which could make it distort and lose tension holding the element in place. Yep, purist will prefer the oil bath filter. But I really like having a modern, maintence-free for all practical purposes, filter element that doesn't detract from the original look. It's good to have options. ?

I agree and I've never had a backfire with my car. But can you say with certainty that a backfire will never happen?

The carb won't "fill" with the engine stopped because the fuel pump only functions with the engine running (unless you have an electric pump). You may not have run the tank dry this morning. You may have experienced a clog in the fuel system or a failed pump. Take the fuel line loose at the carb and put it in a bottle. Disconnect the hot wire from the ignition coil and crank the engine to see if a strong stream of gas is flowing from the pump. I can't explain the white smoke.....losing a head gasket and fuel pump at the same time would be quite the coincidence.

This was with the engine running or off? What are you describing as "when it stalled"? The engine lost some power or it quit? You may have a fuel flow issue. The loud bangs may have been backfires as the engine ran out of gas???

Maybe I'm just dense, but I don't have a clue what the above quote means.........