Sam Buchanan

The transmission sealing I applied a couple years ago has failed so the tranny has been pulled for another go at it. I decided to replace the clutch while everything was apart--it was a good decision because the disc was almost worn down to the rivets. The flywheel needs to be refaced to complete the clutch job. I've removed the flywheel nuts but it jams against the bell housing when I attempt to extract it. The shop manual says the oil pan must be removed in order to remove the flywheel. My question: Can the flywheel be extracted with the bell housing in place? Do the flywheel studs need to be driven back toward the crank flange in order for the flywheel to come free? I don't mind pulling the oil pan if needed, I have gaskets on the way and I can take a look at the rear seal which appears to be pretty dry. Thanks in advance for advice from those who have done this job. Oh...one more question....is there a source for the rubber grommets for the bearing retainer cover bolts on the tranny? Thanks!

Update: Aluminum hubs are still available for the budget kit as an upgrade: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=282 $319.58

Update: Hubs are still available as an add-on for the economy kit: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=282 $319.58

I must have gotten one of if not the last of the full kits for my P15: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58096-scarebird-disc-brake-conversion-p15/#comment-625750 Yes, it is nice to be able to keep the original parts intact even though I have no intention of reverting back to the drums. If a machine shop is hired to drill and install the studs and machine the diameter of the hubs, and new bearings and seals are purchased the economy kit may end up costing more than the 'full' kit.

Yes, these are press-in studs.

As a wise man once said, “It’s not the arrow, son, it’s the Indian.” Good equipment won’t overcome mediocre technique, and good technique will work well with a wide range of equipment. ?

Oil diluted by gasoline? If the engine has been run on that combination.........

Excellent point that I neglected to make. Any impact or stress on the PVC (tripping over a hose connected to a PVC elbow) can precipitate total failure with extremely unfortunate results. Here is my present setup--three connections at tank pressure and one regulated connection for paint gun, rivet gun, etc. A 25' hose will reach any part of my shop. https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-compressor-accessories/fittings-valves-couplers/couplers.html

Marc, the concerns with using PVC for air is the failure mode.....hundreds of razor-sharp pieces of PVC being projected at horrendous speed. Also due to this being compressed air, it is a relatively long-term event as the pressure slowly bleeds down and can literally unzip the compromised pipe. I had PVC air lines in my shop for awhile but after thinking about it I took them out. I now have a multi-outlet manifold at the compressor and run conventional air hoses to where ever they are needed. Safest hard line material is copper or iron.

Hit the Easy Button.....try 3/8", if that doesn't work, only then upgrade to 1/2". 3/8" is the only size I've ever used.

Well....if it's on YouTube it must be fact! ? What does the manufacturer of your gun recommend?

Russ, you might get more responses on the truck side of this site: https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/

Clever solution, looks good.

That would work but might require more work in regard to hoses. Ready-made air hoses are pretty easy to hook up. Yes...make sure you attach to the exhaust on your shop-vac! ??

I used my 10 gal compressor (Home Depot) for the hood, a pancake compressor would work fine, not much volume needed. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-13-hp-110-psi-oil-free-pancake-air-compressor-57567.html $69

10-4, carry on. ?

Sniper, you just won today's prize for the most irrelevant post.....congratulations! Sorry you missed the humor in my post.

That stem sticking out the end of the caliper ruler is a depth gauge...flip the calipers over, rest the end of the ruler on the block and use the stem to take a depth measurement.

Thanks, Marc. Yes, fresh air is supplied by a small compressor (blue hose) located outside the shop to the hood. Only the hood is special, the suit is just a Tyvec coverall available in most paint and tool stores, the hood tucks into the coverall collar. You never smell the fumes. https://www.hisco.com/Product/S-657-31180?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Transactional - PLA - 3M&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=8827094775&hsa_cam=10331010423&hsa_grp=103215905952&hsa_ad=443006607011&hsa_src=u&hsa_tgt=pla-1050265673418&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzqSWBhDPARIsAK38LY9p6n27G90x5zbxIThnIi84DsDSoahySyEnXDuDq6hcUX-xigCAnhEaAiIKEALw_wcB

I'm sure the guys who were overhauling these engines in the back of gas stations back in the '40's were being this meticulous with their measurements..... ?

Thank you Marcel, that is N399SB, my main hot rod since I finished it in 1999, have covered a good chunk of the USA in it. That was my first experience with PPG Concept, it still looks great after 23 years.

Single stage PPG Concept is a superb paint. I've painted an airplane, a truck and a VW with Concept and gotten excellent results. It cuts and buffs very nicely which is a big bonus for this amateur painter. But the price increase of all the components over the past decade or so is breathtaking..............

Two points.... You need to consider using the same paint system as the primer you applied. Be sure you research how the top coat should be applied over the primer in regard to surfacing and timing. You may need to reshoot and/or sand the primer to get good adhesion. People don't 'eye-match' anymore. The paint shop can point their magic gun at your old paint and the computer will come up with a match. Now....we've criticized acrylic enamel a bit in this thread but my P15 was most likely painted with acrylic in the late 80's when the engine was rebuilt. When I bought the car three years ago I buffed it with 3M compound then waxed it and the old finish rejuvenated quite nicely....not bad for 35 years. There are some spots that are degrading a little but overall the old paint has held up pretty well. Of course the key to longevity is keeping the car garaged.

The first thing you need to determine if you are going to paint the car yourself is how you are going to assure your personal safety and the safety of any who will be exposed to overspray. Urethane paints have really nasty components that can cause long-term health problems. Spend some time reading the data sheets for any finish you are considering. A source of fresh air for your mask is the preferred way to avoid breathing isocyanates.