HotRodTractor

I made it home, gave it a quick shower, and she is now sitting in my garage. Hopefully I can start digging into the wiring a little bit this week.

Going off of memory... of the 25" blocks, the 265 is the largest displacement, but the shortest rods. The longest rods would be in the 237. (Same block, shorter stroke = longer rod). I know I was going to get a set of 237 rods and test with a 265 crank, but I fear that the rods might get too close to the cam/block to be useful.... its pretty tight in there on the 265.

No door lettering here..... yet.... still trying to decide the direction to go. I think I might letter the door with the farm name and logo, and then have a magnetic sign to slap on the doors for the other small business I am starting up.

I have a disaster of a desk at home, work, and my shop is a mess. Its time for a marathon cleaning in all locations...... I do try to tidy things up once a week, but that has fallen to the wayside in recent history.

Actually..... I do have 3D scanning technology. I can scan directly and make a point cloud and ultimately make a 3D model.... but for this it best to make a silicone mold directly from the part. Are they different side to side? If you can just give me some rough dimensions and maybe a weight I can run numbers and see what it would cost. Essentially take the originals, make a silicone mold from them, make wax models from the silicone, and use the wax to do some lost wax casting and finish up with some plating (which I need to check to see if I still have a resource for...).

Do you have one good emblem that can be copied? I have the means to make it happen, but it would probably take a few of them to get the cost down. Are those hard to come by?

Well right now its sitting in the barn. I cleaned it up, got her running good, and got headed down the path of finalizing a bed design, and work/life has gotten in the way of going any further. I'm in the process of changing some things though, so hopefully if all goes well there will be some traction this winter on the project.

So - I am sure I am very much the young guy in this conversation - and even I get fed up from time to time. I just recently put a truck on the road (OT vehicle) that was sitting in my shop for 3 years because I didn't have the desire to mess with it. I stripped the transmission out of it, rebuilt it, and then it just sat there.... waiting on me.... I was fed up and too wrapped up in life to mess with it. Step back. Take a deep breath. Find a local guy to fix it. Go for a short drive. Then decide if selling it is what you want. What should be a "simple" fix should be done to at least help you recoup your funds as best as possible - so it should be done either way. Just drive it again before you make that decision.

This thread makes me sad. Years ago I junked a few trucks that had some of these options and I didn't realize how rare they were until it was much too late. I know I trashed at least 1 passenger visor, a fresh air kit, dual horns, and at least two mirror dividers. Now I'm gathering a ton of these parts together to build a "factory hot rod" and I could have saved myself a ton of time and effort. lol Oh well. I can't change what I did 20 years ago. At least I saved some of the odd ball stuff.

He never did buy any of my "P" heads. Oh well.

I need to make it over there. I also need one of those t-shirts - too cool!

How is your timing? A bit too advanced can make the engine hard to turn over - especially when hot.

I'm not trying to be confrontational. I just am trying to help - mostly because I couldn't find this update: https://www.moparmontana.com/whats-new/edgy-cylinder-head-shipping-update This says what I was saying, only its a bit more optimistic than my predicted end of August/September. Have a nice day.

I like it!

I'm fairly certain this is the first batch that is being cast. The pre-order for December delivery wouldn't be being cast now as they are doing pre-orders to make sure they have enough orders to justify the costs to get the casting run done. I understand they originally thought they would ship the first orders the first week in July and I believe they are behind on their original time table.

So since this is the FIRST time they have been cast (post made 7-15-18) and machining won't happen until after Speedweek - then I wouldn't expect your heads until late August or September.

I would venture to guess that was ONE guys opinion and not that of the overall club putting on the event. I wouldn't judge the club by the actions of him. I would however let a couple of people in the club know what took place - their reaction will allow you to better judge the club.

If i read this correctly - THIS is the first run being cast right now and they are just taking orders for a future casting: https://www.moparmontana.com/whats-new/casting-has-begun

I might be mistaken, but I think the 25" heads were just cast and the 23" heads have yet to be cast.

I have a history of unsticking "stuck" engines when dealing with antique tractors. I start with a mixture of 50/50 ATF and acetone - the acetone thins the ATF to get it into spots you normally couldn't get it, and it eventually evaporates. I fill all the cylinders right to the top and let it sit at least over night (up to your judgement/discretion as to how "stuck" something is). On a flathead engine such as these - I then make a "best guess" at what cylinder has the valves closed (fastest way is to just use a rubber tipped air gun and hit each spark plug hole until you have resistance). Once I have my cylinder chosen - I top it off with diesel fuel (cheaper than oil and also soaks and lubricates). I then have an adapter I made that screws into the spark plug hole for that cylinder and allows me to attach a manual grease gun hose to it. With all the other spark plugs removed I start pumping - if I hit a lot of resistance I will let it sit for a while and see if it dissipates - if it doesn't, I find a different spark plug hole and try again. You have to be careful and methodical - but the pressure with either push fluid down past the rings and free it up, or it will start to turn the engine over. Be wary of cylinders that are at top or bottom dead center - they are no good to put pressure on. A manual grease gun can provide up to 3500-4000psi of nice smooth even pressure in a cylinder. Its also enough to brake things - so be cautious. On an engine that isn't a flathead its easier - just remove the rocker arms and make sure the valves are closed. It takes a VERY stuck engine, or a mechanically failed engine for this method to fail. In 20 some years and just as many engines - I've only not succeeded once.

I'm young - its a long term investment - lol. I just need to find the cash, and then buy one when sales prices are down - and I'll be OK. See that is me learning..... I bought my 1 of 16 John Deere 630LP Standard when prices were at their peak...... fun toy.... but its going to be a while before sales prices climb enough to recover on that one.

Someday I will own one of these lovely ladies. A T&C convertible with a hopped up 8.... cause a guy has to dream big. lol

I used to own a 36' gooseneck with electric hydraulic disc brakes. It was the best breaking setup I ever had on a trailer. I still had a brake controller in cab - but it was a little fancier with a PWM output that could feed either a traditional electric trailer brake setup or my hydraulic one. there was an electric pump setup on the neck of the trailer that provided hydraulic brake pressure based on the PWM from the controller. I would buy another trailer with this setup in a heartbeat, but its WAY overkill for what you need - go with the standard electric trailer brake hookup and get a good in cab controller. I would also recommend setting everything up for the "7 pin RV" trailer plug - then you can have a battery on board the trailer for powering things - when its hooked up to the truck and driving down the road, the truck is also charging that battery. That might be handy for a winch, or LED interior lighting, or a pump (air, water, ???).

If the engine came from a Massey 44-6, that was actually a continental 6 cylinder engine. If you do have an industrial Chrysler engine - no matter what its source - you should probably swap the camshaft to something better for street driving.

Very nice!