HotRodTractor

Here are the pics of Mike's tag. Thanks Mike!

Click here for Langdon's Stovebolt Store

Could you post up a picture?

So you mean you don't have a vacuum line hooked up to it? In any case... exhaust can't leak out of the intake.... so you have other issues in that area if you have exhaust coming out. Perhaps the manifold heat valve is leaking - its right there at the interface of the intake and exhaust manifolds.

The only thing that I have found is the corner of a riveted tag right over the freeze plug hole right below the pad. It could very well be rebuilt and would agree with a theory that I have about the life of this engine. This is a 25" engine with factory dual carbs and dual exhaust. Somewhere along the line throttle governors were added under the carbs because the linkage going from the manifold up to each carb was extended for them by welding in more material in the middle. When I got the engine the butterflies were missing out of the governors. I suspect this engine saw some abuse.... lol Supposedly it is out of an old fire truck - which jives with some other information I had about a factory dual carb truck in the same basic area that I was trying to track down.

Interesting. I've got an engine at home with no number on it at all. Its still raw cast on the top and side.

Photo hosting sucks. Back in the day I had a Webshots account and had a TON of forum links to pics there (other forums). Then they up and changed their whole direction and everything was 100% broken. They did give notice and provide a method of downloading and backing up the entire contents of your space though if you needed it. I then transferred everything over to Photobucket. I had a Photobucket account since 2001??? but I had stopped using somewhere along the line... but it was easy to start right back up again and move forward. But Photobucket has been terrible lately.... It would be awesome if this site allowed the image tags (video tags would be great too!!!). I'm positive this is the only forum I'm on where I can't use them.

I have the capability to 3D scan objects and use that information to create very accurate solid models in CAD software of the part scanned. I'm a bit swamped at the moment, but I would love to scan a vintage Edmund's head. I don't know if I would ever do anything with it, but digital storage space is cheap, and I have the capabilities to make molds if the need arises as I deal with the casting process on a daily basis.

Ultimately - I would love to have a document that could easily be searched that would tell you the exact differences between the carbs. I don't have everything for every carb, some carbs I have more information on than others, and even then I am learning more and more as I dig. By the way - if anyone out there has information on the jet sizes, part numbers, through holes, etc... I would LOVE to get my hands on it. Back to your question, I don't have a ton of time tonight, but I will try and give you some info that I know. Here is the information on the DTE1 carbs - you can then compare it to the above E7T2 information. You'll notice that Below - I have the information for the EK91 and E9Y1 carbs - these were used on the factory dual carb manifolds on the 25" engines. I'm providing these as another point of reference for you to compare to. I plan to get a lot more familiar with these carbs and carb tuning in the future as I get my truck dialed in as a daily driver.... but I need to get my truck assembled first! lol Take this information for what it is - information. This is years old and many things have changed included the gas we run through them - so you mileage may vary (pun intended). As you can see there are small differences in the carb bodies as well as the jetting. Again if anyone has any information about the dimensions of the jets I would be very interested - or if they can give me the test conditions where say "334cc per minute" is achieved that would work as well. (fluid used, pressure)

Which carb do you want specifics on? Not everything I have is digital. If you let me know what specific carb, I'll post up/email you everything I have on it.

Based on a Carter Service Manual PDF that I have: E7T1, E7T2 is for a Dodge truck 1950-1958 1/2T through 3T looks to be multiple engines, single carb E7T2 is also listed as a sub for 1942-1949 trucks (251ci) E7U1, E7U2 is for a Dodge truck 1942-1952 2-3/4T through 4T Dual carb on the BIG motors (307ci, 331ci, 377ci) I don't have anything on the D6G1... I've been looking for a compiled reference just like you, but I have not found it. I do have some specific info that I could post, but its just too much to post it all at this time.

I think this might be the most plausible cause for the damage pictured. Generally if its overheated the damage isn't as localized as this damage is. This could be as simple as a crack that happened when it was first assembled and then over time it broke free, got lodged, and progressively worse with wear.

Can do. It will be sometime this winter after the girlfriend finishes her work for her master's degree.

I've been wanting to check that museum out for a while now. Plus the American Auto and Truck Museum that is right beside it. I figure that would make a good and simple day trip from my place.

Lovely ride!

I'll gladly add to this list. I have one bell loose at the moment and two more hanging off engines that need to be removed, plus one still in a chassis. All truck bells and I know at least two or three variants. I might suggest though is some pictures of the bellhousings, perhaps a simple diagram explaining how to measure to ensure that everyone measures identically, and perhaps at least a picture, if not a dimensioned pattern of the existing holes in the back of the bellhousing.

That actually why I asked - I ran a set of bars on Fleabay the other night to $400ish bucks plus shipping and thought that was plenty. I have been quoted as much as $800-900 to restore that very set based on the pictures that I had. I have a set that needs to be restored already - but I also have a set that is missing the bottom bar - which from my experience seems to be the one most likely damaged. I'm just trying to weigh my options.... if its worth just buying a complete and finished set versus piecing a set together and having them restored. The set I was bidding on the other night seems to what I figure is the upper limit of the value. I was just more or less trying to determine if the prices are that much higher now than when I was looking several years ago. Sounds like they are just slightly increased, which is totally expected. Thanks!

What is the going price these days for the stainless grill bars (both as found and restored)? What is the typical price for restoration? Where do people recommend getting them restored?

I have been very cautious when looking for project vehicles any more. I specifically check titles to match the body tag and not the engine stamping. As tough as titles are getting to be to transfer around and the amount of scrutiny they receive on older vehicles around here - to me its worth it to have a good title to a matching body tag.

Probably a tractor or stationary power. The combines I have looked at and owned used a downward exhaust.

I'm 35 years old. To answer the above questions I've had a Pilothouse of some flavor for the last 21 years (a couple of drivers, and several parts trucks). I just love the old flathead and the pickup built around it. Hence why I am on the mission to build a daily driver over on the truck side of the forum.

I have a photobucket account and I still get the "OOPS" image.

Going from memory - I think this is a C53. I can look tonight when I am home and in the shop. M6 would make sense. I poked around looking for some pictures and I think this is probably correct. So do I understand correctly that the M6 has a "high range" and a "Low range" and then can shift between two gears in each range just by some throttle pedal motion (push down all the way, or lift off)?

Several years ago I picked up a 251 engine for parts (turns out it has no compression to speak of in most holes) - anyway attached to it is this fluid drive transmission with some solenoid cans hanging off of it. Help me out - what is it and what did it come out of?