HotRodTractor

Many thanks to all veterans on this day. Each and every one of them have bought and paid for our freedom in this fine country.

Yep that is a pretty good distance from my place - but my girlfriend's parents are in West Salem right by Dragway 42 and I make it to Hartville Hardware once in a while.

Where are you at in Ohio?

That is a possibility, but I have never seen a rig like that and I have seen a pretty good amount of dairy collectible over the years. Its not uncommon to find an old farm vehicle with a vacuum port to hook up to an old pulsator.

You have to unbolt the top plate that the shifter goes into.

Most of the collection was 30 series. I had an example of every engine type for every model except an 430LP and a 530LP. The only tractor I ever regret selling was my 830I with one of the sweetest running pony motors ever.

I suppose you could say I'm partial to green..... At one time I was over 30 tractors - I've paired it down to just a half dozen-ish now. lol

Well.... around here in the Ohio area.... I've been messing with flathead Mopars for 20 years and I have only seen one Mopar COE in person and it was a 1940 model. I do tend to get to a few car shows around including the Columbus Goodguys show and I get to ALOT of farm auctions because I also collect antique tractors. Pretty much all of my gearhead friends contact me if they see anything remotely close to a flathead Mopar. Take that for what its worth.

I know once I get a couple of things cleaned up and changed around here that I will be looking for an early B series COE. I expect I will have to pay more than that for what I want and I am looking for a project.....

So its been pretty crazy at work this week and I haven't had time to do much with the car - except order parts. I picked up a Lokar emergency brake cable set - everything from the brake handle all the way to the lever arms on the rear Chrysler drums. It looks mostly painless to install, and I should never have to worry about the e-brake cable ever again. Hopefully I get to that over Sunday. I also pulled a set of headlights out that I have had sitting here. They are 7" round lights with H4 bulbs installed - and a daytime running light halo with amber turn signal switchback capability. I figure as blind as everyone is on the road these days - DRLs are almost getting to be a necessity (and they do help with visibility). The built in turn signal function could take care of my front turn signal dilema - but I also feel that I should swap out the parking light bases and bulbs for some dual filament jobs to further improve visibility. If this link works its a quick video demonstrating the DRL and turn signal switchback capability: CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO

Turn your hearing aids down. Problem solved!

Can you just deposit it into your account? I can't imagine they could charge you to make a deposit (and if they want to, speak to a manager!).

I've never had a bank want to charge me for coins if I have an account with them.

I had to go look that up as I didn't remember that section of your build exactly - that is some nice coverup work that I can see myself doing on a project for a driver. HERE IT IS for anyone that is interested in going to read it.

Can confirm. I have a leak after putting 10 gallons into it yesterday and having maybe 1/4 of a tank in there already. I'll have to take a look at that in the next couple of days.

Then perhaps I was going faster..... lol I was in overdrive with about 2200RPMs on the tach give or take. I wasn't pushing it, but it was moving pretty decent with way more available if I desired.

Let me confirm this weekend -but I have an engine I stripped down into parts years ago that I think was a 230. I'd sell you the whole pile for $250 - but you would have to come and get it.

Got off work a little early today because its been a long week with way too many hours. Came home, fired up the car and went for a drive into Urbana to get a VIN inspection for out of state title transfer - this thing runs pretty damn well. Speedometer is definitely reading too fast (it read 40mph when I was doing 30mph according to GPS) - but the odometer now says 35 miles on it..... so I've driven it at least a couple of miles now I got it up to 70mph or so on a remote road in Mexico and it was perfectly happy.

Where are you located Tyler?

Seems doable.

The piston may or may not be slightly above or slightly below the deck surface at top dead center. You need to measure the distance the piston travels up and down in the bore - that is your stroke.

Actually there is a plug on the head above the #6 cylinder that you can use to measure the stroke. All the bores are the same per length of the engine block (other than oversized) - so you will at least be close and know what it started life as.

I have a Wilcap adapter - its a nice piece. I bought it to add to my pile of parts for a 1928 Ford RPU that I intend to be powered by a Chrysler engine. My decision was made to make it easy to install a T5 and knock out a ton of weight. I don't have it installed, but I test fit everything and it works really nice for my application.

Which "idle screw" are you adjusting? The idle mixture screw - or the idle speed screw? Turning the idle mixture screw all the way in will lean out the mixture at idle. Turning the idle speed screw all the way in should increase your idle speed.