HotRodTractor

I spent the weekend cutting up every mulberry tree withing 100 yards of the house. I also dropped the old fuel tank and attempted to install the 1948 Plymouth tank. Having them side by side really showed me that there are significant differences..... enough so that a "factory" tank doesn't fit on this car without reworking the exhaust and the brackets that hold the tank on. After looking at the tank and seeing an old repair around the filler neck that was obviously not working as intended - I stripped all the old repair (looks maybe like 2 part putty???), sanded the area down around the filler neck and on the tank and cleaned it really well, and proceeded to apply some JB Weld to it. Not ideal, but if it holds, then I'm good. If not, then I need to figure out if I want to redo the exhaust on the car, or find a different tank. I removed the mechanical pump off the engine - it has a nice big hole right in the side of the casting that looks like it might have been caused by a casting inclusion. In any case - it is being covered under warranty for the pump and a new one is already in shipment. I also have the electric pump mounted, just need to get a new filter, hook up some lines and run some wires and a switch and I will be ready to go.

The "Y" adapter in your picture is the heater control valve that mounts on the head of your engine near the firewall. A push/pull cable operates it to control coolant flow to the two heater cores.

I don't doubt that many people removed the governors - in fact the King Seeleys on the dual carb motor I posted a picture of miraculously have missing butterflies. lol

I know George Ache is the man - and once I have some spring stuff done I plan on making a drive out to see him in person. As you guys know - he isn't going to be around forever. That is why I am asking questions - the more knowledge we document the more these old beasts can live on once all the guys that have "been there, done that" are gone. Also - as far as parts rarity goes - it seems everything I want is always hard to get. lol When it comes to these carbs - I view things like jets and inlet valves as commodities that I can easily manufacture if I have to. The jets themselves would be very easy once I have some critical dimensions (through hole diameter) along with understanding the test conditions for the stated flow rates above. I could easily make these (or even drill out old smaller jets larger if needed). Truth be told I was even kicking around the idea of building installing an adjustable main jet if I found it beneficial. It looks like with some minor modifications to carb body it could be done (I'd do that on some common carb, not an E9K1). Honestly I think the shear number of variations of these carbs are why they aren't more popular. Pick up a Stromberg 81 or 97, or a Holley 94, etc... and you pretty much know exactly what you have. Grab a Carter Ball & Ball and it could be one of a few dozen variants. I feel like Forrest Gump with a box of chocolates. lol

If someone doesn't beat me to it - I'll snap a quick picture of the parts book for this. I would highly encourage you to put this on your list of things to acquire for the car.

It was. I decided to take a gamble on it and figured if nothing else it could be good for parts - I have two more of them that I plan on restoring. First quick pass its missing the inlet needle and seat, the main mixture needle, and the little wire pump link. Everything else looks like its there. Is the "159" series of jets just an updated part numbering system for the "224" series of jets? That might help.

I recently picked up a Carter Ball & Ball E9K1 carb - which was one of the carbs used on the dual factory setups - it was relatively cheap and looked to be clean, mostly complete, and in overall good condition. When I stripped the top off when I got home to see what the insides looked like - I noticed that the main jet is the richest one offered for this carb (224-10S) and that got me thinking about jetting. Near as I can tell.... Carb jet part numbers go from richest to leanest with flow numbers that I have found: 224-10S (332-336cc of flow) 224-13S (315-319cc of flow) 224-14S 224-15S (287cc of flow) 224-12S 224-11S (256cc of flow) 224-17S 224-18S Does anyone sell new jets for these carbs or am I relegated to scrounging for old parts either from unused inventory or other carbs? Does anyone perhaps have the through diameters measured already - it would save me a little work. Has anyone found a need to change the main jet in these carbs to compensate for "modern" ethanol enriched gas? I could see where it might be necessary to perhaps go one jet richer, but I haven't actually done any testing or taken readings from an oxygen sensor (I do plan on doing that this summer if I can get everything else done to start enjoying the P15 a bit). Does anyone still sell a Grose jet to replace the inlet needle and seat? The P15 I picked up from Don has them installed on both carbs and I can see the merit. It would be nice if I could find some for future carb rebuilds for my Pilothouse project. Does anyone happen to have the Carter service manual pages for the D6G1 carb? Those are what is on the P15 and I would just like to compare notes between what is actually built and the carb sheet the next time I have to go into them.

For temporary tanks I have an old lawn mower tank with a shut off valve that I hang off the hood or wherever above the carb and just let gravity do the work.

Manuals are just a collection of manufacturer's opinions on how things should be done. lol

With some patience, and diligence shopping for parts - this is a very solid and reliable option. Last fall I picked up a P15 that I easily consider daily driver capable. I'm slowly working on some small issues to make it a rock solid driver (new electrical, minor fuel system stuff, etc....). It has a 251 Desoto engine with dual carbs, dual exhaust, T5 transmission, updated rear axle, disc brakes, etc... It moves out very well. I've put roughly 50 some miles on it while working through stuff and am quite pleased. It will easily start, keep up with traffic on the interstate, stops reliably, and anything else that you might want in a driver. I lucked out - someone had already done the heavy lifting on this ride (Don Coatney), but I also know that everything done can be done quickly and easily on a budget. I know because I already own a similar set of drivetrain parts for my Pilothouse pickup that I acquired over the course of time.

Maybe - but I always thought that the carb governors of this style limited vacuum in the carb - and in a way limited not only top speed, but acceleration as well. I never thought they controlled RPM specifically all that well, more of a load control - of course I could be all wet with this idea as I have never driven something with a carb governor. (And the governors in my picture has had the butterflies removed, so obviously someone thought they weren't necessary! lol).

This engine was out of a firetruck. The combine engine only has a single carb and has an RPM governor that runs off of a belt.

Does anyone know if the balance tube and carb speed governors were standard equipment on the factory dual carb setups? They appear to be missing from the one in Don's picture.

I don't have the info in front of me, so I am going off of memory - but I believe the 265ci engine was advertised at 136hp with factory dual carbs and dual exhaust in 1954 (the same year the Hemi was introduced at 133hp). This would have been for larger trucks 2-1/2T and up.

Not all inclusive - but camshaft of an industrial needs swapped out, distributors usually lack vacuum advance, and sometimes the intake/exhaust manifold setup isn't conducive to a car/truck (vertical exhaust, updraft carb, that kind of thing). Beyond that - they are pretty interchangeable. They installed them in pretty much everything. I've seen them in combines, tractors, generators, air compressors, loaders, forklifts, airport tugs, I almost bought a crazy all wheel drive skid steer tractor type thing at an auction years ago because it had one in it, but the semi was already full and its a long road to drive it home from Colorado. And they made them for industrial purposes up into the 1970s.

For what its worth - I picked up a very low hour late production Industrial 265 that just happened to be wrapped in an Oliver combine. I paid $100 for the combine 15ish years ago with 300 some odd hours on it. Pulled the engine, scrapped the combine. A cam swap and it should be up to the specs needed - if you go the industrial route. Spitfire heads are plentiful if you want to go that route - or pick up an aftermarket finned aluminum head. Dual carbs and exhaust can be had as factory parts as well. FWIW - I'm kinda doing the same thing except with a PilotHouse pickup - basically making it a "factory" hot rod with a 265 factory dual carbs and dual exhaust, Spitfire head, etc... Took me a long time to pull together the base parts for the project. Now comes all the work. lol Some good motivation has been a P15 that I picked up from Don with a drivetrain pretty similar to what I was already working towards. I only have about 50 miles on it, but its definitely encouraging me to get rolling on the pickup once I finish a few fixes to make that a DD capable ride (wiring, minor fuel issues, typical old car stuff).

No disrespect taken. I am going to add an electric pusher pump, but my plan has always been to keep the mechanical pump.... starting to think my plan is flawed. lol Maybe I have just had a good run of parts up until now. I've had really good luck with aftermarket parts - even in the world where nearly all of it is built on the other side of the globe.

Are you #$&@#*$#&ing kidding me? Brand new Airtex pump sprays right out the side of the casting in the flat area above and behind the outlet. Probably a porous casting..... I just shut the car off and walked away for the day.

Guess I will now.... lol I know the one I bought was a chinese special and had phillips screws holding it together. From the looks of it the Airtex units had hex bolts - so I figured at the minimum it would be different. lol

To be fair I've looked at the ad for that truck a few different times over the last 6 months. I think the price is OK if the work is decent. If the work isn't.... then its a complete do over. Wiring doesn't generally bother me.... but from what I see - I would strongly consider it a wiring project going into it. Take that for what its worth. I'm a bit closer than you to it (central Ohio) and I haven't brought myself up to looking at it.

I finally got some time to spend with the car in the shop - kind of a birthday present to myself. Working on trying to figure out where to mount the new electric fuel pump and filter, I don't want it on the outside of the frame rail, so my options are kind of limited..... thinking about hanging them both right in front of the fuel tank..... but not sure yet. I had an idea for the headlight wiring this morning on the way to work that I think will solve my issue of how to have daytime running lights and everything working as they are supposed to.... I'll outline the details later this week, hopefully as I start implementing them. Nothing else really got done as I spent my time cleaning up a few things, and troubleshooting a fuel leak..... I finally started the car on the lift and raised it up to see exactly where it was coming from...... my brand new mechanical fuel pump installed last fall has a crack in it where the outlet fitting is...... I've installed lots of these over the last 20 some years and never had one crack..... popped it off the engine only to discover the inlet port is cracked as well..... either I don't know my own strength or this material just ain't what it used to be..... ordered a new one, making sure its an Airtex that should be here this week and we will see how that goes..... Parking brake is kind of boring to take a picture of. Here is where the front cable assembly mates with the rear cable assembly and gets adjusted. I know the front bracket looks a little crooked, it has to do with where and how I routed the front cable, but it works smoothly, so I am not too concerned about this slight aesthetic that is hidden on the inside of a frame rail. It still needs some minor adjustment, but I need to drive it more before I mess with it any more. The Lokar parts worked well and bolted right to the factory handle on the front and to the drums on the Charger axle out back. I only trimmed the rear cables for length and am pretty happy with the ease of the whole experience.

That truck has been for sale for months. I honestly debated on taking a road trip to go look at it, but in the end decided it was too far away with too much potential for being cobbled together - but I haven not seen it in person nor have I seen enough pictures to know for sure. If done correctly and if everything is in good working order - that would make a great driver. I would want a lot of pictures of the fabrication work before making the journey to look at it closer - I would also plan on some serious wiring cleanup. Battery terminals are not power distribution points (although we have all run a wire or two from them - I count at least 7 or 8 wires other than the main positive cable coming off the positive terminal).

http://p15-d24.com/topic/46621-chrysler-a161-prototype-hemi/?tab=comments#comment-494365

This comes to mind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9R2hOlVqqek

Small update - I'm hoping the weather warms up enough to get into the shop soon - there is plenty to do. New fuel tank showed up - need to install it and an electric fuel pump and filter. New headlights with built in daytime running lights and turn signals still need to be installed. Need to install the heater Need to loom up the wiring under the hood. I did however get the rear brakes squared away and the new parking brake installed. Apparently I never posted any pictures because I failed to take them..... I will do that when I am doing the gas tank and associated parts.