HotRodTractor

Dodge's own literature states the dual carb, dual exhaust option on a 265ci flathead increases power and economy. Coincidentally, the flat 6 with dual carbs and dual exhaust has more power than the V8 Hemi in 1954.

From my experience the only way plastic dip peels off is if it is applied thick enough and that the surface it is applied to is clean and smooth. Anything but and its too thin and rips easily and/or it gets in the little nooks and crannies and holds on tight.

If the railroad wants their spikes they need to come and collect them. The township used old rail bed grindings on the gravel road my farm is on about 15 years ago..... I am still finding spikes in the road. I bet I have picked up a couple hundred of them at this point... most of them the first year or two. I gave a lot of them away, scrapped even more. I just picked up another one on Saturday.

Happy New Year! (A day or so late) I missed some of my goals for 2018 - so now they are for 2019!

Under Coatney, over Coatney, whatever it all is, my P15 is covered with it....

Somewhere I have a picture of a dash I did with broken cab glass from one of the first Pilothouse trucks I bought. Probably drew that 20 some years ago.... its somewhere... just not sure where at the moment.

Unless you need it ASAP - you can pick up a used 1/2" drive Snap-On for under $200 pretty easily and then send it in to be calibrated to make sure that it is in spec. I use them just enough that I justified buying Snap-On pieces (I have a couple of different ones with different torque ranges). Snap-On (or any professional level tool) holds value too - so if you decide you don't really need it or use it enough - you can get most of your money back out of it. Also - check pawn shops - I have picked up some great nearly new or never used professional tools on occasion, but its totally luck of the draw.

Happy Thanksgiving!

I want to buy a nice cabinet saw - but I struggle with where I would set it up at and leave it. Perhaps some day.

I've been known to scribble on some paper. This selection of subjects are still vehicle related though.

The biggest advantage to multiple carburetors on an inline engine is better fuel distribution. The entire intake design isn't exactly all that spectacular on any of these. Dual carbs improve that, triples (one for each siamese runner) improve that yet further. As such - no - you don't really want to run a progressive linkage as you loose that improved fuel distribution. But a real danger would be over carbing it. I drove a stock 218 with a single carb for a long time (1953 Pilothouse) - now the P15 has a 251 with dual carb and dual exhaust..... night and day difference (it also has a shaved head and camshaft for full disclosure). That 218 while was a good smooth runner has nothing on the setup with duals.... but there is also several factors in play. I do agree that firewall clearance is a real concern.

To elaborate a little more. On Don's P15 that I have become the caretaker of (251 equipped) - it has a modified stock intake with a pair of D6G1 carbs - those should have 1-9/16" throttle and a 1-1/4" Venturi. I also have a factory 25" dual carb intake complete with factory E9K1 carbs - those have a 1-11/16" throttle and a 1-1/32" venturi. Now if it comes to triples... I would look at smaller carbs like a B6P1 which has a 1-5/32" throttle and a 1-3/32" venturi (just going off my limited notes - do not take this as gospel - there might be and probably is a better choice out of the Ball and Ball collection, but I have yet to find everything condensed into an area to help make decisions like this). Not sure if any of that helps or hurts - but I stand by my statement that with the right carbs it would be OK. Its just a matter of finding 3 matched carbs that are the right ones.

Triple carbs with the RIGHT carbs would be OK. The Ball and Ball carbs have been offered in so many configurations over the years I am sure there is a set of triples that would work splendid on a stock motor. The problem is - I have no idea what carbs to tell you to look for other than ones with small venturis. If they can tell you what carbs would work and you have room to fit everything - then I see no issue. Without that magical piece of knowledge or the desire to figure it out.... then I wouldn't go that direction.

I've read in passing about using them - I assume its stiffer (as I think that is what it might need, but I really want to drive it more first). I know I am going to swap in some F100 shock mounts - that might placate me for handling.

Yup - I bet the rear end has a parking brake built in. I'm in the process of hooking up a new set of cables now on my P15. Right from the factory brake handle to the brake levers on a Charger rear axle. I should have pictures of the setup mostly complete tomorrow evening.

All the more reason to keep it EFI.

You stated in the first post you wanted to update to 06 Charger parts to become a reliable driver - I'd like to thing that an 06 Charger with fuel injection is a much more reliable driver setup than a carburetor conversion. Quite frankly that article is poorly written when they start talking about how involved EFI is - that is someone that is scared of the tuning power that a computer can be capable of. I like carbs and points - but that doesn't mean I consider them to be the best thing since sliced bread for a daily driver setup. For the amount of money spent making the conversion you could have a much nastier EFI motor with better street manners.

I was just looking at these - it looks like they are available in 5-1/2" and 6-1/2" OAL - I haven't had an opportunity to measure the P15 to see what is needed. Also while on a similar subject - I have read bits and pieces about using a Jeep front sway bar - does anyone know what Jeep I need to be looking for? I haven't looked at it hard enough to be able to determine it yet.

Those two station wagons would probably be $4000 each here and in much worse shape. Plus - you are doing this work - the original poster already said they weren't a mechanic, so that means little to no tools, and it would take a while to get things going - assuming they don't want to just farm out all the work. We have all the seasons with lots of moisture plus salt on the roads. Things flat out rot into the ground here in short order.

The Signal Stat 900 doesn't have an integrated flasher relay - that is what determines if it can be used with LEDs. In fact I have a Signal Stat 900 running LEDs.

I think your goals are realistic, but like DrDoctor - I think your initial estimate for cost is on the low side especially considering you will be farming out the work. I actually have similar goals to you, except currently a much longer commute (and I'm only aiming for a "fair weather" daily driver) - but I lucked out and pickup a car that had most of the heavy lifting complete on the drivetrain - upgraded flathead, T5 trans, upgraded brakes, etc... I basically just had to wire it up, work out a couple of kinks, and I have to yet put an interior into it. Paul - Those of in the midwest aren't going to pick up anything worth a damn for $1500. In fact that is cheap enough that I probably could have bought it and trucked it across the country and sold it for a profit. For that money we get rusted out junk with no floors and no titles (most of the time).

That was one spot I had started looking and that was when I found there were at least two different people making tanks. Which one did you go with? The more OEM looking tank, or the "simpler" hot rod type tank. I'm leaning more towards OEM only because it looks like I might get more capacity. 17 gallons versus 15 gallons.

I tried searching on here with no luck.... What are all the replacement gas tanks that are available for the P15? I've done some googling and see a smooth tank and I see a tank that looks like an OEM replacement. does anyone have any experience with either of these? Just looking for a good quality replacement that doesn't have to match OEM.

Following - as I will soon be looking towards interior options. Personally - I was already thinking of a mixture of DIY with things done by a local auto upholstery shop - I have two different shops within 10 miles of me that do this kind of work.

I didn't get very far today. My OT daily driver needed a tire plugged so that had to go onto the lift first and took longer than it should have. Anyway - I put it on the lift and started by removing the existing parking brake hardware under the dash and running the new front Lokar cable from from the factory parking brake handle down under the car. That was pretty easy and uneventful. I pulled the rear wheels and drums and that is when I knew that I needed some more parts.... That would be part of the automatic adjustment feature on the passenger side.... missing the cable entirely and bent up pretty good..... so I'll have to source some parts to fix that. Other than that - I unhooked the old cables in the back and attached the new sheaths to the backing plates and played with routing for a few minutes. That was as far as I got. So my todo list is to buy the parts needed for the adjuster and finalize my routing so I can button everything up.