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It could throw off your valve timing. Is your engine running rough after you set the valves?

I bought my ultrasonic cleaner based on the plan if I rebuild a carb once it’ll pay for itself. It worked awesome. I did my ‘38 Chrysler carb. Excellent results. Then my lawn mower carb. Its as good as new now too. Then a hydraulic block. Some head bolts. Thermostat housing. On and on. It will get used many times. It’s earned its keep. Now it just keeps saving me money and time. I have been adding 1 cup of Spray-Nine. Then fill the rest with water. Works great. Mine is the 15L size.

I like The Carb Doctor. I’ve bought a couple carb kits there. No issues. My advice is, if you are going to attempt to rebuild a carb, you should acquire an ultrasonic cleaner. They work amazing.

You can see the contacts here in this video: https://youtu.be/xtCwHurDRgU

Miles on engine since last rebuild? Oi pressure? Main and rod plasti-gauge clearances? Cut open filter to inspect for possible material? Take an oil sample, send it in for analysis? Pull 1 spark plug at a time to determine if rod or piston pin knock at which cylinder. Current measured compression of all cylinders?

There is a guy near the airport in Kelowna. Does excellent work. He re-lined my hand brake. Make sure he adds a shim as new brake material is not the same thickness. He'll get it right. He knows this. Address: 4560 Black Rd, Kelowna, BC V1X 7V6 Areas served: Kelowna Hours: Closed ⋅ Opens 8 a.m. Mon Phone: (250) 765-7735 Province: British Columbia

Indeed my old Mopars are therapy cars. I get as much enjoyment from driving them as I do repairing and maintaining them. Its rewarding and somehow fulfilling to keep these old cars in tip-top shape, driving them regularly. The world is a happy, trouble free place when cruising around in an old car at 25 mph. You see the sights and the enjoy the smells. Like seeing the world through rose-colored glasses. I really like Sunday morning summer cruises at 6am. Before it gets hot. Head out, grab a drive-through coffee and cruise. Stop maybe for a photo op or shoot a little You Tube footage. Maybe Friday after work, get some take out food. Head to the park overlooking the river with Momma. Eat in the car, enjoy the sights. While the sun sets. Its hard to beat. I am in my happy place in and around my old cars. I am fulfilled.

My ‘38 Chrysler, I can feel a little king pin wear. I’ve never performed this work, yet I suspect I will be in there at some point. I’m seeing the effects on my tire wear pattern. Front end up on stands, I pump the king pins up with grease and notice the play is gone. Go for a short drive its back to the way it was.

Excellent work and thread. Congratulations. Thank you for sharing.

After a road test…Smooth! The needle is working better than ever. No jumping around anymore between 5-20 mph. Steady-eddy now. Happy with the results.

No I used an aerosol spray lube on the cable. Pulled inner drive cable right out. Sprayed adequate lube down cable hole. Also sprayed some on the cable itself when I fed it back down the hole.

Thought I’d follow up. I oiled up areas of the speedo mechanism that I could reach. I used 3in1 oil. I removed the glass. Cleaned it up inside. Painted the tip of the needle red again. I spun it up on the drill. Seemed good. I pulled the cable, lubed it up again. Reassembled all and lifted the rear wheels. I took it up to 40 mph in top gear. No noise. It looks better. All seems good. Off we go, cruising again soon.

I pulled speedo cable out 2x. Pulled out inner drive cable. Cleaned and lubed it. No improvement. I’ll try some 3 in 1 oil on the speedo parts. Thx.

Upon closer inspection this might be a lube hole. I have no experience with these. Suggestions of a lubricant? Thx.

Thinking, maybe get some light lubricant into these areas indicated by the red arrows?

That was interesting puzzle to access the speedometer. Its howling. No improvement after lubricating the cable. It does not utilize a wick or lubricating port. I may just try and spray lubricant into the guts of this speedo. It looks way too delicate for my ape hands to disassemble . I’ll surely break it. I may send it out for disassembly, cleaning and lubrication. Any have a similar experience? How did you solve it?

I suggest hooking up a digital multimeter. Set to continuity. One end at main input power lug. Then check continuity at each of the output lugs. Begin with the key in the fully off position. See if any output lugs are getting power full time. Maybe glove box light, depending how the car is wired. Cycle the key to the power-on auxiliary position. Now what lugs are getting power? Usually the radio and gauges in this position. Turn the key to the engine run mode, the position where the starter is engaged. Now the lug that goes to the starter relay is likely powered. Create an illustration. Label what lugs get power when. Compare it to the shop manual schematic. You'll have a full understanding by now and likely it'll all easily make sense.

Many of us have had issues with the rear main seal. I've been reading threads on them for years here. After rebuilding my engine I too have a leaking rear seal. I paid extra attention and followed steps I read about on here. I did not trim the oil pan gasket seals too short. I put a dab of silicone where the oil pan gasket side gaskets meet the rear. I pre-oiled my crank surface. I lubed the seal up. The crank seal area was polished up. Nothing worked. It leaks. I do plan to go back in there and look around again at some point. Take another crack at it. I am intrigued by the smoke machine idea. Hook it up to the oil fill tube and force the smoke down into the crank case? Create a slight positive pressure in there (2 psi maybe) watch where and if any smoke comes out?

Try vintage power wagons. They have lots of manuals available. https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/_files/ugd/a95fd2_a91e41eedc5f47e3be143ad1ec271ab0.pdf

Cool feedback. What a world we live in where a typical nobody, can make a video and share it with the world immediately. It's an interesting almost euphoric sensation to hear that I am welcomed in your personal lives. For example while you have your morning coffee. I see viewers of my YT channel, from all over the world. Check out this viewer list. This is all I could fit on one page for a screen shot. It goes on...I find it amazing Us old guys, think back when we were kids. This is like Buck Rogers, way off in the future stuff. That this is happening in our life time is absolutely epic.

Why are my brake pistons designed with 2 different sized bores? Why does my 50's Mopar have 2 separate front brake drum wheel cylinders per wheel? I had a pretty good idea, because I read a bit about somewhere. Yet I see now that I certainly lacked dept of understanding. This video is enlightening. Watch if from the beginning. Then at about the 8 min mark things go way over the top with sinusodial engineering math. I had to fast-forward all that. It makes my underdeveloped brain hurt. Then go to about the 1:05 mark and watch again. Look the illustration, that's classic dual cylinder front brakes found on many Mopars. Look how it works and why they did that. The discussion about the different braking forces required for the primary and secondary shoe was great. Good info! The engineering and math way back in the day is amazing. It was all there. The math told them so. The engineers just had to figure out how to put it into real life practical use in an automobile...And they did, so very well.

Oops. I meant to put this in this thread:

I think it would be interesting to see a graphic exactly where the cam lobes are in these 2-only crank positions. How far away is each cam ramp from the each tappet when only using the 2 crank positions. Gotta be real close in some positions. Just curious. I do find when I am down in the fender window, my head in the valves, its easy to mix up what valve you are on. Sticking your head in and out of the cavern many times to review the check sheet, and mark down your numbers. As we know the inconsistent pattern of intake and exhaust valve placement can add to the confusion. I find myself re-counting valve pairs from #1 cylinder back, reviewing my place to be sure I am on the correct valve. I was thinking. A paint-pen marker would be ideal. Once a you have set a valve, place a single paint-pen dot on the block near the valve you just set. This would ensure accuracy and the entire valve set job would be quicker I think. No mix up, and you'll be confident when all valves have the colored dot. A little brake clean or kerosene on a rag. Wipe the oil off. Then you have a clean surface for the paint pen to mark. When you are done, use the cleaner again to take off the paint dots. Easy-peasy. Like this image below. I think I am going to do this for sure, next time I do a valve set.

Welcome to the forum. I claim this is the formal home for all flathead Mopars, best in the galaxy. There are many great members here. You'll get all the support you need here. Where abouts in Canada are you? I'm in BC.