keithb7

Yup. I ran out of fuel despite my fuel gauge showing ¼ tank. Twice. 2 different cars. Indeed the pin fell out of my the arm on my mechanical fuel pump too. I swapped in an electric pump in minutes roadside, and drove home. (One of my finest moments!) Gotta love the old flatheads. We’re all experiencing the same things around the world. Lol.

Someone gave a a few crates of old tools and misc car parts. What where these pinchers primarily designed for? Blacksmith hot work? Horse hoof trimmers or shoe nail pullers? Something else? I’m just guessing. Is it worth keeping a small or medium sized pair for myself? Thx.

@Los_Control Look at this little devil, just waiting for your next trip that is more than 30 mins from home on a 100+ degree day...

Just for reference, in my 1938 parts book index by part number, there is no 790226 number found anywhere in the book. Under Group 23-K Glass: Quarter window glass 1938 Plymth P5 4dr sedan 739980, 2 dr sdn 738896 1938 Plymth P6 4 dr sedan 738894, 2 dr sdn 738896 I thought I read somewhere that the difference between a P5 and P6 4dr sdn at the rear quarter widow is the P6 pops open for a draft/vent. The P5 is fixed and does not open.I can tell you that my 1938 P6 4 dr sdn rear quarter window does indeed pop open. I cannot confirm the P5. 1938 D8 (Dodge), D9 (Dodge), D10(Dodge) models: Qtr window glass. D8 4 dr sdn 738893 D8 2 dr sdn 738895 D10 4 dr sdn 738894 D8, D9, D10 coupe 738899 D9 4dr sdn 739980 D9, D10 2 dr sdn 738896 1938 S5 Desoto Qtr Window Glass 4 dr sdn 738893 2dr & 4 dr sdn 738895 Coupes 738899

I have a an original 1938 parts book. Covers sll the Mopar models. I’ll check it later tonight and report back.

I was thinking of building a temporary remote reservoir for when I am bleeding the brakes. I’m down there at the wheel, and I have to keep getting up to top up the reservoir. This thread is giving me some ideas.

I’m in the coveralls. Dad and my brother yanking the hoist. I borrowed the hoist. Note the plywood. I was 16. My first car. I learned a lot of lessons on the grass, no cover, with few tools and no experience. Look how I turned out! Lol. I don’t have a photo but I remember replacing a clutch on the same grass. No jack stands. Chunks of wood. It rained a lot. Grass turned to mud. I figured, I’ll stay dry anyways ‘cause I’ll be under the car. I got it done. Had to. I had no other options.

Carbon steel piston rings sitting nicely in bare cylinders rust. Humidity in the air and time is all that is needed. Depending where the car has been sitting, and for how long, will determine how rusted the rings are. If you could get it jacked up and work under it, I’d pull the oil pan and have a look. The bottom sides of the cylinder walls may tell a story. As seen here. This one would not budge. I got it to move but there was nothing left to pull from the engine. A 2x4 and a big hammer from the bottom side is what finally got the pistons out the top.

I fixed my erratic speedo issue by removing it and using 3in1 oil on the gears. Lubing cable did not fix mine. No wicks in my ‘38 speedo.

I did a cylinder head replacement a couple years ago. I made a 3 part series. Part 1 is here: https://youtu.be/vlb2q9w0vGk?list=PLiWbTXH-Vdq71DBuggVl1_URZuov-2Rs9

My ‘38 Chrysler’s original transmission shift knob is crumbling apart. I think its made from bake lite? Anyway, chunks are falling from it near the threads. I removed it to stow it away safely. My dear friend who has machining tools agreed to spin me up a new shifter knob from aluminum. He has some 3” round stock. The original knob is 2” diameter. I said lets try 2.5” diameter for my big mitts. He made me a wonderful polished aluminum knob. It fits my hand great and feels so extremely nice. Its so comfy and smooth. Like butter in my hand. He must have used 2000 + grit jewellers rouge or something. It’s so shiny and smooth. It’s not stock but I think I can overlook that. To say I’m pleased is an understatement.

I concur, if the drive line is turning its directly turning the transmission oil pump. The pump makes pressure and flow only when the drive shaft is turning. The transmission valve check ball, its spring, the shift piston, and its return spring are probably all under unneeded stress from pressure while towing with the rear wheels turning. Sort of a snot-ball guess as its still not all 100% clear to me how it all works at any given moment. I’ve read the original service manual more than a few times. Watched the dealer Tech videos on it. I probably grasp 80% of it all. Enough maybe, that I sold my ‘53 Chrysler and now own 2 Mopars with manual 3 speed trannies. Lol.

Wow. Just wow. I can now say I have seen a YT video on how to vaporize your ear drums.

No Update. I've had second thoughts about going back. I figure if I go look at it, I'll be tempted to try and strike a deal. 2 years ago the elderly owner still hoped to do something with it. There is a lot of odds stacked against him to do that. I'm sort of at the "wait-and-see" what unfolds stage. In order for me to take this project on, it would have to be priced right. I might be tempted. I'd love to own the car and fix it up but my '38 Plym would have to go. I already have a coupe. My '38 Chrysler. I also like owning a sedan so I can pack-in more people. Maybe the right answer is I offer to take the Desoto to my garage. I park my Plymouth in his garage. I work on his 37 Desoto with the plan to get it running and drive-able again. He pays for all the parts, freight, fluids etc. He gets to retain ownership and drive it again. I get the pleasure and satisfaction of fixing it. Lol. I am not drawn to green Mopars. Then find me! Every single flathead Mopar I have owned (3) have been green. I am hopeful someday another color may appear...? Yet this orphaned, disparaged green '37 Desoto tugs at me. A very rare car. If it was made in Canada I'd guess they may have built 25 of them or so. It needs to be dug out. It needs to be nursed back to life and be enjoyed. Why do I want to take-in these stray dogs? Lol. I know they'll cost me more money and time.

I read the original post. I didn’t have time to give it much thought. I was thinking, maybe the tappets are really cupped? I didn’t reply thinking maybe I’m not educated on cupped tappets. I think you got it right with the lobe ramps. I feel that one needs to have the piston at TDC so you can positively confirm 100% that the tappets can wiggle up and down. Then you know without a doubt you are not on a lobe ramp. Neither intake nor exhaust ramps. Then you’ll get them set right. Hot or cold, I’ve done ‘em both ways with good results. Hot, then you’re down in the heat and crankcase gasses. By the time you’re done you look like a chimney sweeper in 1902. Your lungs may look similar. Lol. I read somewhere about the siamese design of our blocks. Coolant flows around the outer walls of each pair of cylinders. Not through the centre of each pair. I studied my blocks. Makes sense. They say due to this design the valves don’t all run at the same temps. Makes logical sense to me. It takes a good 15-20 mins of driving under load to get the entire block and all it’s related parts up to operating temperature. When all is hot, when we set the lash gap, we get it right. In theory a hot valve with less than efficient water cooling could be .001 longer than the next valve. In theory… A car with 40,000 miles and no valve set? Curious if you have you done a wet/dry compression test? Tight, hot exhaust valves break down. They open sooner and close later. The longer the valve is off its seat the hotter it runs. Hot enough to break down iron and steel. Like a oxy/acet cutting torch on your exhaust valves. That’s pretty much exactly what’s happening.

Growing up everyone spoke in miles per gallon. Its programmed into my DNA. Additionally, probably 90% of all flathead Mopars ever made were sold in the USA. That too reflects membership here. I tend to convert to imperial for the majority here. Litres per 100 km just doesn’t have much jingle to it. Here it is:

US gallons.

I too eye’d up the Chevron GL-1 here in Canada. I seem to recall it was only available in a 50 gallon drum. At this 1,000 miles per year, there will be GL-1 oil going to the new owner, long after any of my possible future grand-kids are done with the family heirloom! ?

385 miles round trip. Nothing to report about the car’s reliability , other than excellent. Calculated fuel economy worked out to 12.5 mpg. Seems too low for an OD equipped flathead era Mopar. Perhaps its time to look deeper. Float level high maybe. Rich main-jet maybe. I will look into it. I’ll check plugs, put some test equipment on it. Look at vacuum l, dwell etc. This was my longest trip in the car, hi-way driving. First time calculating fuel economy on my Chrysler coupe. The trip included hilly terrain. Some stop and go traffic thru Kelowna. Speeds of 55-60 mph mostly. Some strong head winds for about 1.5 hrs coming home today. Momma was comfortable and happy. Always a good sign when thinking about more tours.

Yesterday morning my wife and I left home and headed on a 300 km road trip to Osoyoos BC. My Chrysler was fantastic. OD was engaged on the hiway the whole way. Great cruising. Ambient air temps about 30 cel. The cooling system stayed between 170F, then up to 180F. T-stat would open then drop back to 170. The thermostat cycled and regulated perfectly. I did inatall a 6V electric aux pump incase needed. The whole trip was great. When we arrived in Osoyoos we got into some traffic. Stop and go. After 10 mins or so we got out of it. I hit the accelerator and she hic-cuped and sputtered a bit. I hit the switch on the electric pump, and it worked perfect. Just as I had hoped. 300 km back home tomorrow. Then I’ll post my fuel economy numbers. About and hour from departure I did advance my timing slightly. I could feel it. She got a little more jump in her step! A few picks of our area. Its been a great tour. More confidence building. More tours are to come!

Me too. Freshly rebuilt engine and same 2 pc rear seal leaked. I’’ve not gone back in there. Not sure what I’d do different anyway. I’m living with it. Kinda of a bummer but I can only blame the mechanic.

Maybe I'm not paying close enough attention, I will maybe state another way to look at this: You may want to understand what is unique about GL-5 and what it it designed for. What are the differences between the power transfer between gears in a transmission and a rear axle assembly? A rear axle has side gears and a crown a pinion set. The diff utilizes both straight bevel gears and hypoid gears. Hypoid and bevel gears, hmm. Are those types of gear sets also used in early Mopar transmissions? How does the transmission clutch gear work? Is it the same as a synchromesh? How does a synchromesh actually work? Does the power go through a synchromesh like it does in a hypoid gear set in the rear axle? Are straight spur or helical cut gears found in the transmission and the diff? A basic understanding here will guide you to what oil to put in your transmission and your axle housing. You can use modern oils for both, yet the right modern oils is important. I personally use a different oil in my transmission than I do in the axle housing. Modern oils, yes. Same oils, no.

Glad you found it. Unfortunately, 1 more ill-fated Pertronix story to add to the pile.

I think Red Line MTL has been mentioned around here before as a great xmsn oil. Fairly pricey. So maybe not ideal for the folks with a leaky transmission. ? Some good info here: https://www.redlineoil.com/mtl-75w80-gl-4-gear-oil They talk about GL-1, synchos, (clutch gears) GL-5 etc. Seems like the golden nectar for old Mopar trannies.

I seem to recall some confusion about reassembling the oil pressure relief in the block. It was likely because a year after I tore the engine apart, I was finally reassembling it. The parts diagrams weren't real clear on which way the plunger had to go in. Is it possible you put yours in, incorrectly? Another side note: I noticed my oil pressure was a bit lower with 10W30, versus 20W40 or so.