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See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

Dad picked up this quart can of MMO from somewhere around 1975, and it has been refilled many times over the decades. It has also taken a tumble off of trucks, tractors, combines, even from a rooftop while fiddling with a TV antenna. Around 2000 it got snagged in a hydraulic linkage when the pump malfunctioned, doing a number on the can, and me and Dad thought this old thing was a goner...nope, still using it to this day, hasn't leaked a drop. Another oil can donated its nozzle cap shortly after the mishap since the original nozzle cap was kaput. With springtime quickly approaching, the yard maintenance equipment has to come out of hibernation, and this MMO can has been busy once again. They don't make'm like they used to I reckon

Did you do a disc brake conversion on the front axle? If so this will require shortening the tie rod. At least that was the case with my Rusty Hope kit. The caliper mounting plate moves the steering arms inboard and I found that my tie rod didn't have enough adjustment to compensate for this. I ended up trimming off an equal amount off of each end and reinserting the tie rod ends. This gave me the adjustability that I needed.

I had the same experience with that spring in the seal popping out. I posted a topic on that some time ago on here. I got lucky and just as I was about to slide in the axle I spotted something shinny in the differential tube there that confused me. Sure enough it was that spring. Wow! what a job getting it back in to the seal. On the other side, before driving in the seal, I coated the spring with Lucas Red & Tacky and then in addition I also wrapped tape from the inside of the seal to the outside of the seal in about 4 places to make sure it wouldn't want to pop out.

That actually wasn't possible. The existing key and tumbler in the lock was a smaller diameter circle with a "keyway" at the top compared to the replacement I got that was supposed to fit, which was a larger diameter circle with no keyway. I took it to a local locksmith that does work for us and he's sorting it out.

Maybe some hombre a tad further to the east was spit-ballin' 🤠 These small connections are hard to clean, but plugging-unplugging several times can scrape off some crud, and dielectric grease can help seal them from further contamination. At least the weather is warmer now, so fiddling with these little dudes is a little easier cuz ya can still feel your fingers 👈

I sent mine to Lauderdale Speedometer. Refurbished it and set it back to zero. Great work- nice people.

I moved some 30 years ago and I happened to be back int he area and drove by the shoe repair place and it reminded me that I left a pair of shoes there just before I moved. Odd chance but what the heck, stopped in and inquired of my shoes, they will be ready next Tuesday

This is something I have wanted to try, have not done it yet though. The key is to get the bulb on the end very cold. There is a gas inside the tube that makes the gauge operate ... gas expands with heat and makes the needle move. So when you freeze the donor gauge, all the gas is sucked into the bulb on the end. You prepare the original gauge by cutting the old line off leaving some of it and clean and sand it ready for soldering. Will need a larger tube to act as a coupling. Now take your frozen gauge and quickly cut the tube off of it and clean and solder it to the original gauge ... the solder job needs to be airtight. And this has to be done before the gauge thaws out and releases the gasses ... why @OldDad67suggestion to have a bucket of ice for the bulb to sit in is a great idea. My issue is finding a suitable donor gauge. I had a old gauge from the 1980's-90's with the metal tube and it worked fine and planned to use it as a donor ... then it leaked and is no good. Then I ordered another one off of ebay, modern gauges are using some sort of plastic tubing and not a suitable donor to solder to a metal tube. So that is the issue with fixing them now as I see it ... we need to find a manufacturer that still uses metal tubes that is suitable for a donor.

have you looked at this old service reference book? TROUBLE-SHOOTING IN THE HYDRACLICALLY OPERATED TRANSMISSION a link to the IMPERIAL WEB PAGES Transmission and Clutch Repair Information for Imperials and Chrysler Imperials

Would you consider creating a “how to”post on repairing these temp gauges? I for one would be most interested and grateful ! 👍

just like the truck....beefy

Marty, It will mess up the passing gear change as well. By the way I looked at your cover sheet. I played a Trumpet in High School and like Herb Albert etc. also. Dude the small amount of labor to fix that Carb Piston will save you tons of money. I spent $250 for a Kickdown Switch on my Tranny (That I didn't need) only to correct the Passing/Kickdown Piston in the rear bottom of my Carb. I may sell it on e bay, My Tranny is a '48 M5 with the single Pole Kickdown Switch which is rarer than the M6 double Pole Switch. I'll be rich someday. LOL - Not Tom

The 41 is still very much a project. It's scheduled to have 2" chopped from the top in May. Then all the other body patch repairs and complete new floor/trunk floor.

I always bring this up when people are working on the rear end. Check the vent and make sure it's clear. If it's plugged it will force the grease through the new seals and onto your new brakes when it heats up. I found this out the hard way when I had to replace the new brakes I had installed a month earlier.

Been a couple weeks since a update .... I have been working on it when weather permits. I got hub caps from Hubcapmikes,com and happy with them Windshield wipers were a bit of a mess ... I finally got the parts and working wipers for way too much $$. I wonder if there is anything special to do with vacuum wipers? ... I saw where one person suggested ATF into the unit to lubricate them .... I dunno they work alright, but wonder if some maintenance can be done. Been working on the wiring and getting first class help from this forum, the best help anywhere period. Yesterday I finished up the wiring inside the engine bay, tail light wire been done for a long time. Today I worked on cleaning up the wiring inside the cab and the fuse panel .... All the lights except turn signals and brake lights are finished, connected to switches and harness is cleaned up .... The passenger side light is not on ... could be I damaged a splice or possibly the bulb is burnt out ... I have not checked it yet .... waiting for turn signals then will hunt down the issue. I have the wires ready for the turn signal switch and should be pretty simple to connect .... I'm just not happy with the used turn signal switch I bought off ebay a few years ago. Problem is the switch was rewired and the color of wires do not match original and it did not come with a proper clamp to connect to steering column ... I made one and it sucks, I do not like it ... A new reproduction is not that much and I have one on the way .... special thanks to @Young Edfor sending me good information a couple years ago ... My switch only has 6 wires, most have 8 or 10 .... the image Ed sent me that I thought was correct, has 7 .... I'm missing the main power wire that feeds the switch. .... So at this point, I will wrap things up tomorrow and Hound Dog is getting pushed to the side. I have parts on the way for it and not much more to do until they arrive .... I need to start working on the wife car again, I had sufficient time to cool off and not so angry with it ... It is time.

Marty C, In the back of your Carb where the yellow wire goes is a switch with a piston inside. If it hangs up because of dirt affecting its operation you will have this problem. I believe its called the kickdown switch right inside the carb. Dis -assemble the carb clean out the cylinder and the bake light/plastic piston and re-install. That should correct it. another thing. sometimes the kickdown switch on the Tranny will hang up, you can remove the 30 Amp fuse from the Transmission Seleniod and re-install it I hope this is the solution I had similar problem and put a new kickdown on my Tranny and didn't need to because it was the Carburetor not responding to the Tranny Switch, because it was clogged up. Install a Gas filter to prevent future gunk ups. There is a long trouble shooting process in the Service Manual to run down the actual problem but dollars to donuts you probably have a gunked up Carb Kickdown piston Tom

The rubber just naturally ages if they get used or not .... then the rubber gets hard with age. If you let the truck sit for 10 years without moving it ... the steel belts will form flat spots I know cars that have sat for 5 years or more will have some vibration to them .... 29 years ... Sad about the rock, glad it did not hit your windshield ... the life of a truck on the road I put the 235's on mine .... no idea what the speedometer will read .... but we have gps.

A temporary fix for the hood cables is picture hanging wire. It’s the right diameter and it’s strong enough. I used that when I had a D24.

There are shops that can repair your temperature gauge. Or, if you are reasonable handy and comfortable with a soldering iron, you can fix it yourself. See https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge