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sap season has arrived again. got the "mobile" tank loaded onto the truck. tomorrow i will collect around 200 to 250 gallons of sap from the woods tanks/barrels, and fire up the evaporator for the first time this spring....pics to follow...

actually, riding to check on a GT6....spied this and took the opportunity for a photo shoot.....

If the bolt is loose you will see it turn when tightening the nut. If it does drop in, well you were going to take the starter apart anyways.

Lots of great information in this thread that will help others. I dealt with many of the same struggles with my brakes; I would get them to spin free but as soon as I tested the brakes they'd be too tight...the cheapskate here then invested in a set of new return springs. And that was that! I've yet to pull the back drums again; those dragging brakes might be costing me some gas mileage

My parts book shows two nuts on that stud.....one locks the stud to the starter housing, then the cable terminal is put on the stud and then another lock washer and another nut to secure the cable terminal. Sounds like you need another nut (5/16-18) and a 5/16 lock washer. I don't think the stud can fall into the starter...it may go in a little until it hits the armature assembly. Regards

I thought I start a new 2022 thread of all the fun things I like to do in my ‘38 cars. This evening after work it was time to get under my P6 and hook up the speedo cable again. I missed it with all the excitement of my new engine. I adjusted my clutch. It was a little too high I think. In 3rd if I floored it at low speed i could feel it start to slip. Maybe it’s the extra torque we picked up with the 237? We’ll see. Tonight I headed out for brief trip to the carwash. Then pick up a little beer for Sunday’s practice with my band buddies. Gas was $1.959/L. About $6.16/US gallon in US funds. She’s running good. The tranny appears to be all sealed up well. The modern output shaft seal I got on e-bay did the trick. A little sealant on the main and countershaft ends before reassembly dried those up. Getting better every day. Odometer 99,626 miles

Hi everyone! My name is Kirk, I'm 32, and I'm from a small town in southeastern Arkansas. One of my buddies and his dad run a scrap metal business and they buy a lot of junk cars. Most of it is usually modern throw away stuff. They let me dig through their junkyard when I need a part here and there. After they get the yard full they'll crush the cars and make room for more. I try to go there about once a month just to visit and see what they've dragged in. Well back in February I drive down and as I'm walking into the yard I see this car. I immediately called my buddy and asked if they were going to crush the Coronet and he said yes! I asked him what it would take to buy it and he shot me a price. It seemed a little on the high side, but I agreed to it because I couldn't stand to see that piece of American automotive history get destroyed. The car is fairly complete. Engine isn't seized. Carburetor is missing however. I plan to try to get it running and driving and hopefully sell it to someone that has the time/money to make it really nice. Let me know what you guys think of it!

I found an article about the eternal question, How Fast Should I Drive It?, especially for the younger collectors.. Interesting in the way ours engines are built compared to others brands.. .Plymouth First Decade: How Fast Should I Drive? (ply33.com)

In an attempt to keep the Building Thread "clean"... I thought I start this thread until its no longer needed. I appreciate Don C's comments and want to "move" it here and leave him the spot for his brake build, T-5, and whatever else he wants. I think 49dodge1ton has the concept down perfect and is a good example of how I saw this working. Any other ideas are definately welcome. 48D Don's comment "So many folks do a build-project-modification-work on a new vehicle-etc, and soon start a new thread for every nut they tighten. This makes it very difficult to follow progress. All build-project-modification-etc. threads should contain a starting point and closure once , and when, the job is completed. Bill Story (for one) is a master of this idea as his long thread tells the whole story. If someone does not want to read the whole story but only the last posting then they can point there mouse on this icon and go directly to the last posting. Also as this thread is "links" only no pictures should be allowed. This possible rule has already been violated and hopefully GTK will find a way to get around this. (those pictures have since been removed) Also the link discription should be very specific to the work so someone doing the same job can research what others have done. No for sale stuff, off topic stuff, I dont like this vendor stuff, etc. should be allowed. This should be only a reference starting point for anyone looking to see what others have done. Once again, GREAT IDEA!"

Always good to stop and look at any old vehicles. Glad you are on the outside of this one though.....not lying down inside ?

Sadly I'm going to have to cancel my plans for attending this year. As of today none of the sheet metal has been repainted due to weather and other associated issues trying to paint in cold weather. It's just been to cold and humid to paint. If the painter had a fully heated shop 24/7 it wouldn't be a problem but that's not the case so no painting until early next week. Paint isn't the only concern, the price of diesel is also a factor. At todays diesel prices I'd have to get a mortgage on my house to pay for the fuel. 5,000 miles at maybe 12 mpg avg....I'll let you do the math. With luck by this time next year I'll be retired, fuel prices will be down, the world will be sane and the truck will be done. Those conditions would make for a fun trip If the barbecue is on next year there is a much better chance that I'll make it. Y'all have fun

I've used various props for holding the pedal down over the years, unfortunately I don't have the seat in yet which makes using some sort of prop a little problematic. I've never done pressure bleeding before but I bought one just recently with the hopes of solving this problem.

18 DAYS AWAY!!!! Time to put the plan into high gear. Let the side show begin, hurry hurry, step on the pedal that makes it go!!! I'm cleaning up the BBQ Truck this weekend......might even take it for taste run...I mean, TEST run! lol ? CYA There! 48D

I didn't realize that Stromberg had one barrel carbs that worked on the fluid drive set up with the M6 Transmission. What model is it that has the two electrical circuits ( kickdown & anti-stall )? Will the linkage match up the same as my Carter B&B EV1 ?

Well I scored big time at a local junkyard. They usually don't have vehicles this old, but this one was brought in just a few days before. I really didn't know what to expect when I walked up to it, but as soon as I saw that it had a good exhaust manifold, I started wrenching! I walked out with the intake and exhaust manifolds, carburetor, and fuel sediment bowl for $20. The "flap" inside the exhaust manifold that I'm assuming opens/closes via a thermostatic coil to help warm the intake is my only holdup at the moment. I've gotten it to move slightly by tapping the shaft in and out with a hammer and brass punch. Correct me if I'm wrong, but there seems to be small bushings on the shaft. The bushings will move in the manifold, but they are frozen to the shaft. I'm open to any suggestions on getting this thing loosened up. BTW If anyone sees anything that they could use off this truck I'll do my best to get it before they crush it. I'm sure it'll only be there a few weeks.

I pressure bleed. I have a brake hold tool i made. Depress pedal and lock it. Crack bleeder and repeat. I will say, it not the hose. However, clamping a brake hose can damage it.

Great news Marc. Well,,, good news at least. Great news would have included figuring out why you've had so much grief getting that drum on. Time for a beer!

More ticked off. Well done. Is obviously satisfying for you as it's your project but also good for me an others in keeping us inspired to plod on with our own.......thanks for the update and pics.....

oil dye doesn't lie. put a bottle of oil dye in anything leaking and run it a while and shine a black light or uv light on it. you might be very surprised where the leak is actually coming from. proper diagnosis is the most important tool.

Thanks for cleaning off the dust slowly and carefully with your "truck duster" Brent... Really helped when I was drifting with ma '72 Charger! ? 48D

VINTAGEPIC: Route Van spotted on the FB

So the Fire Company agreed to take ownership of the vehicle again. I am currently awaiting title transfer and the means to buy parts. I have a $6500 budget for year 1. In other news, what are you using or where are you guys getting replacement master cylinder cover gaskets? lol

There is a machined-in stop for both the inner and outer bearing inner race. Those races should be firmly seated against that stop as a first step. Then the inner seal goes against the inner race. If your race was above the hub, where was the seal??? Something sounds really off here!

Weekend's work: Modify the door linkage to use the inside handle where I want it and keep the sliding parts where they need to stay w/o hanging up. Also the bearclaw connector addition. 7766.mp4

You will never regret adding a winch to your lift. I cut my control cord and wired on extension cord ends. Now i can plug in 100 foot cord and run winch from driver’s seat. Same winch goes on my trailer. Used a square tube mount.

Brent, I thought you might find this interesting. I ran across this video on youtube today and noticed it had a 6000 GROSS label on both sides of the bed Apparently the truck is in England now but it supposedly came from the Oregon desert area.

47 Project.

IMG959632.3gp It's alive! Aside from the spitting and popping through the cracked exhaust manifold, the motor sounds great! 40 pounds of oil pressure at idle. All it took was a new set of ignition points and that old eBay carb. It really needs a proper rebuild. It doesn't like to idle very well. My plans are to rebuild the carb and then make sure the timing is dialed in. I'm assuming this was its first start since 1997. According to an oil change sticker on the windshield, the oil was changed, it was driven 5 miles and parked. My next dilemma is transmission. Can someone school me on Gyromatic transmissions?? The clutch pedal moves, but all it seems to do is pull on a big spring that's on the linkage. The clutch fork or clutch itself seems to be seized. Thanks for all the support guys! We're well on the way to getting this thing back on the road!