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odds are if you on the cell phone with this you will miss the thunder.... https://www.youtube.com/embed/AsKjPwRaA5Q

More bodywork pics. Remember, the goal was to make the car safe so my wife can tool around town in it. I have never done any bodywork before, just watched Fitzy's garage and Lakeside Auto on Youtube. These are the results. I only wanted to fix the swiss cheese rust (especially behind the doors) and do my best to prevent future rust. That POR15 stuff is great by the way! Also tried using fiberglass as well as body filler. That worked well with the small holes, mostly by the mouldings where the water would sit. It was interesting to pull the chrome off and see the grey paint color. I think that was the original color but when I sanded the car to prep for paint there was a creme color paint hidden under there too. The bodywork came out good enough for me although I will not be winning any shows. The car is now at a paint shop awaiting a fresh blue spray. Hopefully I get it back next week.

Hello Everyone! i live in Europe Finland and i Have a projekt car Plymouth p11 -41 Now that is paint but i Have few parts that i need.could anyone help me where can i find new or used parts. Trim to both side(hood,door and backside)ashtray Cover,door lock parts,gasket to little Windows of doors.

It all started over a year ago when Chris Bamford (bamfordsgarage) posted about finding a really good steering box in a ‘47 Dodge club coupe which he got to use in his ‘47 sedan. I messaged him and asked if the coupe still had the rear window which is the only curved glass in the car and is different in size to sedan windows and hard to find. He said the window was in the car. I was visiting relatives this weekend about 90 miles south of Edmonton, where Chris lives, and arranged to get the window which we did. It’s perfect and will make a great spare! See pic below. However, that is only part of the story. I met Chris at his house and visited his Garage Mahal. Inside were some amazing non-Mopar cars, aka the benefits mentioned in the title. First was a 1912 Kissel Kar that was rebuilt as a replica of the Edmonton fire chief’s car. Pictures of this car “as found” make it an unbelievable restoration. The weather was decent so we went for a drive and then for brunch. After brunch we got in Chris’s famous 1947 Dodge D25 sedan to go and get the window from a wrecking yard 30-40 miles out of Edmonton. Chris's Dodge has been to the southern US in the summer and driven to the Arctic Ocean in the dead of winter. Looks a little rough but runs beautifully. Chris was kind enough to let me put a few miles on it also. We got the window from the coupe on the left below. This yard had hundreds of old cars from the 20’s to the 70’s. Returning to Chris’s home we then went out for ride in his Model T sportster. We went down and up Groat Road, a very windy and steep road, at speed. What a hoot! Chris has a couple more old cars. A 1906 Orient and a very original 1926 Model T. Chris is currently doing engine work on both. Thanks Chris for showing me such a wonderful time!! It turned out to be so much more than a rear window retrieval!! I realize this a long post but I thought other members would enjoy it.

Time to start welding. Don't worry, it will all be covered by new carpet. Also painted the floor with rust preventative paint.

Trying again The Hump needs some padding other than that great fit

The original cast pieces had varying quality as well...from a manufacturing standpoint, the casting looks good on paper but there is a cheaper, more reliable way to make this part that doesn't involve special tooling just to chuck it up in a lathe...at any rate, once the part is all buttoned up, the imperfections won't be readily seen

must have been a back to back six pack night

Yes the design is tapered. It primary function is to direct coolant up from the slots on top to the area under the valve seats. The shape and size of the slots assures equal flow to all the areas around the seats.

Its Tampere

Kinda sorta car related. My sister donated a Tea cart to me. I started doing an "Artsy" paint job on it. Then I found out that she not only didnt expect it back, she didnt WANT it back! So I painted the legs the Blue Ive been using as High light color and now I have a car specific Tool cart! (I put a silicone mat on top of the tray so I wont ruin the paint)

You will want to get new rubber mounts for the engine, new gaskets, and seals,, new pistons, rings. Rods can be reused if not in bad shape. New crank and rod bearings especially if they require machining.New timing gears and chain, new water distribution tube if yours is corroded. Valves and seats can be reused depending on condition, freeze plugs need to be replaced after boiling out the block. New valve guides.. Might want to get a new oil pump but I reused mine. Water pump, new h9ses and belts, new thermostat. Some folks get new heabolts some clean up and reuse the old ones.. if you choose new,, keep the ones that have the threaded heads.they come in handy. New spark plugs wires and tune up stiff for the distributor number on the dist data plate starts with three letters. Look at what is available from different sources. Egge for rings and pistons, vintage power wagons, Terrell machine parts for internal parts, Robert's motor parts, Andy burnbaum. And a couple others. Money can be saved by shopping different sources rather than getting a kit from one vendor.

All new Gaskets, New harden valve seats, maybe vale tappets and guides, Maybe grinding the crank and new or oversized bearings, water pump with sealed bearing, new distribution tube, Pressure plate clutch disk throwout bearing and pilot bushing. New engine mounts, new radiator hoses fan belt, rebuild or checkout the generator, starter, rebuild the carb, flushing the radiator, flushing the trans and possible rebuild, flush the rear end. new inner and outer oil seals, New brake shoes and lines and rebuild wheel and master cylinder. flush and clean the gas tan and possible new fuel lines also add an electric fuel pump. New u joints that can be greased maybe a spliced driveshaft. The list can go on and on hope this give you some direction. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I like the original engine color scheme of black and silver. It looks good once everything is cleaned and has shiny paint. I used POR 15 rust paint (the smallest can) and applied with a small brush. I like the shade of silver and using a brush gives you a bit thicker coat of paint than a spray can. Black is just good quality spray paint. Just my two cents worth. Looks like you are doing good work and accomplishing quite a bit. Bob.

Great explanation, thanks again! Bruce

I second Robert's comments... it was a real fun old car day! Up here in Edmonton, most northerly big city in Canada, we are not 'on the way' to many places and get few visitors. It's always fun when someone drops by and I can tell you Robert makes very good company. Here are a few more photos: Robert piloting the Mighty D25; a later-'30s Packard sedan; Pierce-Arrow sedan with signature headlights-in-fenders; more '30s sedans including a Packard with possible sealed-beam conversion; general yard view. Astute readers will note the sky clouded over since Robert's photos posted above — in fact, my yard photos are about a year old and were shot whilst retrieving the replacement steering box that is in the car now.

The dial indicator I used has 1" of total plunger travel. I usually set up the indicator say midway of the 1" travel. ***Next I very very firmly push or pull the axle to it's limit..Doesn't matter which way. ***Next while still holding the axle shaft I zero the indicator (rotate the dial face to align the zero to the needle... ***Next push or pull the axle opposite way and read the total end play. The reading you see is the total end play reading for both sides. The pic above I posted is a old picture shot to show general Indicator setup and reading. As for the .005" shown sometimes the axle and end play reading will stay when you let go of the axle. I honestly don't know/remember if that was what happened on that job. Pic was just one I shot for reference...ended up here!

Exactly my friend! Exactly! I mean, Whats the big deal about a little crankcase oil?

Possibly, though I am partial to the Big Chicken Barn in Belfast.

Ordered floor pans in March, they arrived at the end of June. Next time I will make them myself. They seem easy enough to make. The cross members were shot. Like I said, I am interested in safety, not originality so to make it easy I welded 1/8" box steel to the frame to make a solid base.

If the bearing cones or races have severe wear which would be obvious you would have excessive end play. New bearings can also require shim removal though the need to add shims is typical...not a lot...say a .005" maybe a .010". I have a stack of them I collected over time. But let's say the bearings are worn a bit..to tighten them up to spec you would need to remove shims. Typically the rear axle bearings last many many miles and years and do not require shim service. If the bearings (rollers and cups) after careful cleaning look like new and feel buttery smooth forcing the cup down hard on the cone while rotating back and forth use them! Maybe the last work on the axle seals those folks set the end play...? Incorrectly...IDK. That's great that the car was your parents car and now you are bring it back to good use!

That reminds me… I spotted this one a couple weeks ago.

i switched to non-stepped bores in the 1.5-ton. zero problems. as far as engineering goes, stepped bores went the way of left threaded lugnuts, it wasn’t needed.

I spotted it at the Morris, Illinois Cruise Night. I didn't see the owner so all I have are photos. If it shows up again at the October Cruise Night I will try to find the owner and get some background info.