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I'm not after trophies but it's nice to have all your hard work recognized. Winner of a local peoples choice award.

There seems to be only one hand signal people recognize these days, that's the "Number One" signal. I get that a lot but try to not let it go to my head.

In support of Wayfaring Stranger, I identify with his idea of building something different but within parameters he has established. WHAT'S WRONG WITH THAT????? He is looking for a little input from those of us who might offer some experienced, constructive and/or objective opinion. Can't we respect that request. Those who are predisposed to stock, or flat head only, or Mopar only, need not chastise. "Let it go" and let others of us enjoy the dialog that this subject may instigate.

Whoa!

Clean, paint, install, etc. .........................................

I've been wanting to take off the oil bath type breather, and replace it with a modern type filter, but more unique than the cheesy aftermarket pieces. This is easy to do in your garage with a few hand tools and some old parts. Find the bottom section of an oil bath breather and a dog dish type hubcap of choice .................. that's it ! Cut the old breather housing about .75" to 1.00" above base. The design may vary, but leave nothing but the bottom plate with the clamp and velocity tube. Pry apart. There are a few tack welds that can be tricky ! Smooth your cut. Now you must get a filter for your housing, so you can measure for the center bracket. I used a 8.5" x 2.5". Place you hubcap on the filter and measure for your center bracket. I used .125" x .750" cold rolled, because that's what I had in the garage. Bend your bracket in the vise with a little heat and a hammer to get nice bends. Allow approx. .250" from top of bracket to hubcap. Remember to NOT make bracket top too wide, because the hubcap is curved ! Attach bracket, with center stud for hubcap. I bolted mine for now, in case I want to change something. I'll weld it later. Center drill your hubcap and test mount. You might have to adjust the center bracket, pending accuracy of your measurements.

I did a little googling in regards to the turbo 4s. The pt cruiser GTs and dodge neons SRTs had different configurations, but I feel are both likely to fit. The neons were really a test platform for the 07 Dodge Calliber SRT roll out. They seem to have made some changes as the neons had 224 hp and the Calibers 280+. My guess is all of them have similar things to overcome, mainly rear wheel drive trans set up and overcoming the computers. I do think the drifter community is very tech savvy and likely a good source for these answers. I'm still waiting for someone to say "steering colum...won't fit." In case they do,... ..., could you take a rear ended donor dodge caliber and make a front wheel drive wayfarer.....hmmmm. Ps its been brought to my attention that reading such "ideas" makes half of us smile and the other half vomit. Please remember if you are smiling, be respectful of those purging, and if you are heaving as you read this, we aren't laughing at you...we're just smiling. Enjoy WS

I have read this thread several times and focused on understanding your goals. ​I get it and I applaud your perseverance! Please press on. The folks who are interested will continue to support with information, questions and "atta boys". Those who are rubbed the wrong way will go silent. The idea of an old car with updated and adequate power that fits, w/o major surgery, in the hole available sounds like a fun and satisfying project. It's something where you can learn while you solve the "build issues" and then enjoy the driving experience with something different. All that said,.....I did the "shoehorn bogey" with no regrets. Not for you, however, one item that may apply to your search is that the stock radiator can be moved forward by several inches by simply reversing the "radiator hoop". It was the means by which Mopar accommodated the longer 6 cyl engine and that has been done by several on this forum. The extra inches may allow you to consider other engine options 'tho the Slant-6 is still too long. Somehow I'd lean toward the Turbo 4 cylinder. Mercurys, Lincolns and I believe Fords had them. I'd guess you could get the engine, trans and computer in one package, maybe even get a whole car for cheap. The wrecking yards are full of them and I'd guess that parts and service are readily available. The challenge for me would be the electronics. 'Tho must be lotsa YouTube info on that. Success at clearing the electronics hurdle would be very satisfying. Good luck. Don't take too bigga bite for your abilities. And, keep us posted.

I cannot address your body/frame style as I have only Desoto's. That said, Sondra and I are planning on putting some serious miles in a few years on the big Desoto. I looked into everything from the SBC to the inline 4-5-6 Chevy/GMC engines (Vortex) of the 2000's and most things in between. The problem I kept running into was that in every case, I hade to cut up the steering, firewall, or frame to get them to transplant "Well". In a couple of instances they could be made to fit but long term maintenance and other issues would be not fun on the road away from home. I came to the conclusion that unless you want to cut up the body, frame, steering you are better off staying with the stock engine block. What I am working on, slowly, is to build a 265 Chrysler that has computerized fuel injection, a very small (4 PSI) turbo and a modern transmission with overdrive. I am looking at mating up one of several different transmissions to the stock bell housing and have not decided on which one yet. On the steering issue, I may go the Don Smith route and use a late 60's GM power steering box as it will fit my large Desoto pitman arm as they have the same spline. I am sure that the P15-D24's are not the same. But, if you dig like Don did you may find something similar. If you cut the column and fix it to the dash and have a set of joints on the way to the box, odds are in a head on the joints will fail and you will not suffer the "spear in the chest" problem. You can get an adaptor plate from Wilcap today that will put a GM trans behind the flathead. I want to try and use the stock bell housing. If not, I will go the Wilcap route. My point is that you can have your cake and eat it too if you are willing to take some time and think through a serious "upgrade" to the flathead six. The one engine/trans I would like to know about in these engine bays is the early slant 6. Will they fit without cutting the firewall, inner fenders, or anything else? Good luck. James

Certainly an interesting topic with the potential use of late model, normally computer controlled whiz-bang engines. Oh, the 5.7 does fit, there are examples, but nothing is going to be a bolt-in...well, except for 'that' engine... The LA small block is about as easy as a swap will get and if you go to the Magnum series they are certainly spirited. The new generation of v-6 engines are also powerful, but highly complex in terms of the computers, and not likely inexpensive. How about the 4.7? Millions of them on the road, very durable, quite powerful, not-so-large-displacement, same concerns with computer controllers. I'll stay tuned for late breaking news.......

THE PACECAR IS PAINTED ! Base coat / clear coat . ppg deltron with omni clear 161 it took approx 4 hours to paint it. it came out real nice !! very little dirt ......... not bad for doing it in my garage. boy.............. that was a big job though .. I was totally exhausted after that. I'll let it sit over the weekend and then start wet sanding and buffing her out.

Well you know I wasn't going to tell Don that since he'll have the dash out and the windshield trim the new headliner and windlace goes behind those pieces......

Sigh… I did have some people wave back at me the other day. There are getting to be more and more people who haven't got a clue about hand signals. Almost makes me consider adding turn signals. I guess if I had two tail lights and external parking lights in front I would be more inclined to do it. But… I seems that the majority of drivers in my area no longer use turn signals anyway. So maybe the easiest path is to join the crowd and simply stop signaling.

Sand lines disappear when Whileyeratititis shows up.

Or, just go OLD SCHOOL, roll down the window and use arm signals: arm up= right turn; arm out = left turn; arm down = slowing or stopping, that is unless you have wet finger nail polish! LOL

One "draws a line in the sand" beyond which he (or an opponent) will not go. Definitely, absolutely. Then one crosses the line for some really, really good, compelling reason. What to do now? Draw a new line in the sand.

Please keep it civil. In general, a reasonable rule is if you don't like a post then just don't respond to it.

Mark, I remember asking your girl freind if the Vikings are going to have a team this year since they have'n thad one for years. I starting to think she might have poked the hole!!! Merle, I will have it rolling by then, I also hope to have the boards done in the box and the interior. We are crazy busy at work and I am working out of town alot. Sucks but I like it better then no work at all.

Rebuild the straight six, you'll be money ahead, why mess with a good design? If you want a modern driving experience then take your new car to town.

Beautiful car! I think it is a Beauty Queen.

Just what we need. A geriatric race to the wire

Thanks guys for all the nice compliments. And, it IS done, all I need to do now is drive and enjoy it!

Here is an alternative. McMaster Carr # 92735A250 $7.50 for a pack of 5. Quarter inch pin with 1 3/8 usable length. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pivot-pins/=sza44q

i wouldn't call what i'm doing "restoring" an old car, but i am resurecting an old car. like Niel said we are just the current care takers of these things, and i'd like to leave my mark on the history of this one.

Attached are additional photos that did not attach to my original post. As you will notice, the windshield wipers are not on because I do not yet have correct blades for the original arms.

american graffitti guy here my self,,,nice looking 48,,glad u made the switch from that other brand,,,,lift looks pretty good to me,,,so does your garage,,,,may i ask where in pa ??? im out side philly sorry to say on the nj border,,,