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JR-39D11

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington State.
  • My Project Cars
    1939 d11

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  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    cars, bikes

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  1. well duh now that you say it, it's obvious. that would have been good to know yesterday when it was 85 out and 95 in the car.
  2. It's been awhile since I gave an update but after struggling with the brakes and getting them to stop locking up I took the 39 Dodge on a weekend trip and put about 400 miles over the weekend; 200miles each way to the coast for a little car show and back. Everything held up pretty good and she handled pretty well and I was able to do around 55 the whole way. The only issue was the heat, not the engine heat but the little six volt heater in the cab with the doors that open to expose the heater core. That thing was putting off a ton of radiant head any easy way to disable for the summer driving but having it for cold weather driving.
  3. Can you provide me the pointer, I'm looking as well and having trouble finding with my keyword search.
  4. Thanks for the advice. I'll be able to start working on it this week and will report back.
  5. So after driving in heavy stop and go traffic to get to a car show my rear drivers side brake locked up. What I first noticed was it seemed to stop very quickly I pulled over to get gas and noticed that the brake lights were still on and it wouldn't roll. After waiting and moving the car bac n forth the brakes released. I went back on the freeway and soon my peddle was rock hard and I could smell brakes, pulled off and the rear drivers was smoking. I'm in the tow truck now and looking up things to try. i have new rubber lines and I never touched the rear brakes I think there both sticking but definitely the drivers side is worse also by the time the tow truck got there my brakes where fine. I'm guessing some mc issue but looking for advice on what to check?
  6. Not a concern for me. I'm not going after trophies or points, I like the fact that the car is a real survivor with vintage equipment. Most of the new stuff I see at the swap meets is Chinese junk that I will not put on car; I would do a turn signal if it's vintage period correct made equipment like I said but it's not a big concern. I guess my tolerance for risk is higher, that might be do to the fact that I also ride a motorcycle. I can say that I feel safer in the Dodge that tops out at 65 even without it having seatbelts or turn signals on the freeway than I do on the bike so safety is relative. I've been driving classic cars for a long time without the bells and whistles, using hand singles to indicate my intent add that fact that this is a weekend toy that I drive much differently than I do with one with anti lock brakes and not in rush hour to work traffic or typically at night, etc... Some folks are so concerned about safty they need to change the windshield glass, get rid of the stock steering column, change the brakes, swap out the bias plys for radials and probably a lot of other changes, I don't' find those cars with many changes as interesting at this point in my car life.
  7. Turning the fender lights into turn indicators is on my maybe list, I would have to find a true vintage 6v turn single switch first to consider it. My goal is to not have anything on the car that isn't pre war made or close to it.
  8. I'm not after trophies but it's nice to have all your hard work recognized. Winner of a local peoples choice award.
  9. I can't get enough leverage on the dash to make it stop while driving. I'll give that a try.
  10. Thanks for the suggestions, I wasn't able to tinker with it yet but the noise is coming from the dash but I think it may be the steering column shaking the dash and if I push up on the wheel I'm stopping the shake.
  11. I'll have to look when I get home, I'm sure it's original equipment however.
  12. I've got about 300 miles on the dodge now and I'm still working out the kinks but the one that is driving me crazy is the squeaking from the dash, it is much too loud and very annoying. I think it's the vibration coming up through the steering column cause the noise, if I push up on it on the steering wheel it gets quieter. I tried tightening the clamp that holds the steering column to the dash and the steering box to the frame but that didn't help. Anybody out there deal with this and give me some tips? Could I have missed a some rubber mounting pad on the engine rebuild, there was one round thin pad that didn't appear to be needed so it wasn't used however it did come with my engine/trans mount kit.
  13. Thanks all, the color is great but I can't take credit for picking it, that's what old paint looks like when you do about seven stages of buffing. the before and after shots I have really show how that old paint came back to life but it was very labor intensive. I have the rear bumper but it is very rusty and the chrome is peeling away. I want a nice used bumper, my goal for the car is to make it look like a survivor that aged nicely and not have a bunch of new or redone stuff unless it is NOS from the right period. The picture shows how drastic the paint improved.
  14. Still need a rear bumper and glove box door and to break in the engine. [
  15. First drive this weekend, not to far but about 20miles, didn't want to push it, the car is not insured yet and I don't have bumpers but it did good. The brakes worked good (took about five bleeds to get all the air out) steered okay but I still need to tune the front end, the Camber is way out of whack in fact everything works accept the radio, that just blows the fuse a half sec after turning it on. I hope to have some better pictures soon of how good the paint buffing came out.
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