Electronic ignition distributor conversion

[Sniper]

So, I finally got around to trying to convert my points to electronic ignition.  Following this method.

 

Ran into some issues to note.

 

Bought a new, not reman slant six distributor. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VVB46R0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Started the conversion yesterday, had a different idea I was going to persue but the stuff I need to do that method won;t be here till Thursday.  Got impatient and tried the above method.

 

The distributor I bought is not compatible with the flatty to slant parts swapping conversion, here's why.  The top of the distributor shaft that the rotor rides on is retained by a hair clip on the Mopar distributor, whereas on the aftermarket one it is retained by a phillps head screw.  So I cannot use the old lower shaft with the new upper shaft. 

 

 

 

 

[Sniper]

So I will have to step back and punt, till my stuff comes in for the other method I was thinking of.

 

Will update on that.

[Dartgame]

Why not get a used slant 6 electronic distributor? That's what I used when I did the conversion a year ago.  I bought a spare at the mopar nats this year for $10. Cleaned it up and everything works on it, including the vacuum advance... you are in west Texas - right ? Take a hop down to the local bone yard that has old cars/trucks in it. Bet you find one.

[Los_Control]

23 hours ago, Dartgame said:

Why not get a used slant 6 electronic distributor?

Would be interested in knowing which years work?

I'm following along this thread because someday I to plan to do this conversion.

 

@Sniper got me a little confused with upper and lower shaft .... sounds like shaft is 2 pieces.

I always thought we knocked out the pin then removed the shafts from both distributors ..... then installed the old distributor shaft into the new distributor.

 

Doing this, who cares how the rotor button fits on the new distributor because that shaft is getting tossed away and the old shaft we are used to is what we are using?

Mark me as confused  🤔

 

While I currently do not have time to work on my truck .... I'm thinking in a week or less I will be able to start back on it.

First thing I have to do is fix  a no start issue .... while not positive, the spark looked funny and I believe I need to replace the condenser ....

No big deal staying points if we had quality replacement parts ..... I have a new condenser in it now, I have a known good 20 year old condenser and also 3 new untested condensers on hand. ..... simply because I have no trust in them I collect them.

When the truck is actually driving on the road, I do not want to deal with these issues and will do the /6 conversion.

 

[Dartgame]

Los - any stock mopar electronic slant six distributor will work (1972 - 1980's) except for a lean burn type. You reuse the lower shaft from the flathead, and the upper mechanical advance sleeve (if you will) from the slant distributor, that slips over the lower shaft.  In addition you re-use the slant's breaker plate, vacuum advance etc. Most challenging part is turning down the body of the dist. to fit in the block. More succinctly think of it as reusing the slant dist., with the lower shaft from the flat head dist.

[Sniper]

On 9/3/2024 at 2:45 PM, Dartgame said:

Why not get a used slant 6 electronic distributor?

 

Because boneyards around here don't have slant sixes in them. 

 

2 hours ago, Dartgame said:

except for a lean burn type

 

I have a lean burn one on hand, no mechanical or vacuum advance at all.  It's part of my EFI upgrade, going to have the computer handle timing.  That one you cannot do the shaft swap trick on, which is why I already had a plan to address that.  Essentially, I am making a shaft extension that's use the stock /6 roll pin to hold it on.  Only reason I am even messing with the /6 version with advance is because I am tired of the new made points rubbing block wearing out and the EFI swap goes on the 230 I am building.  Less than 1500 miles on the new points and the dwell is at 20 degrees.  Plus it was Sunday when I was messing with things adn Napa wasn't open, only place in town that has the points in stock.  So I thought "hey, perfect time for the conversion", lol.  This way I can use /6 cap and rotor, don't have to worry about finding NOS points, cap or rotor anymore.

 

Oh, one other difference between the new /6 distributor and an original, the bolt that holds the timing tab to the distributor is metric.  Got to get one.

[Dartgame]

Sniper - have you had the lean burn dist. apart yet ? The upper sleeve on them should be compatible with the flathead main shaft. At least that's what I'd seen on small block lean burn dist. The mechanical advance slots are locked in such a way as to eliminate any advance movement, and the lower shaft is the same as a normal dist.

[Young Ed]

21 hours ago, Dartgame said:

. Most challenging part is turning down the body of the dist. to fit in the block. 

 

I made myself a redneck lathe. My cordless drill will stand up on the battery. I bought a bolt large enough to fit through the dist body and long enough to chuck into my drill. Then I held a file to the dist while the drill turned. Checked it frequently for fit. When it started getting close I switched to emery cloth instead of the file. It's aluminum so it goes pretty quick.

[Sniper]

I did look at the lean burn distributor, it's a solid shaft so not compatible for the swap.  But that is ok, I think I have a solution.  All else fails, I can lock out the mechanical advance and remove the vacuum advance on an OEM points type /6 distributor.

 

Another difference, the new distributor has a metal gear, the reman lean burn has a nylon gear, which is all I ever remember seeing.

 

I measured out the housing diameters, the /6 is .030" larger. 

[MBSoPaB]

Hey Sniper, could you give some insight into your work-around for the screw vs. hairpin clip on the new vs. old dizzy lower shaft?

 

A couple weeks ago I too ordered up one of those fresh dizzies (DST3690) via an eBay seller, and am in the process of swapping over shafts.

Same seller/distributor, same screw retention for the upper advance and reluctor top shaft.

 

My junkyard efforts within a 2 hour radius of here haven't been bountiful for turning up an original /6 electronic dizzy, otherwise I'd have boned up on ThrashingCows' mod and likely be done with this step for spark management.

 

Many thanks,

MBSoPaB

[Sniper]

Essentially, I took the gear of the /6 shaft, making a coupler to attach in it's place and adding a length of shafting to the other end of the coupler machined to fit the oil pump slot.  Setting the length to match the stock flattie setup.  Once I have it mocked up I'll put it in the spare 230 and make sure the coupler clears everything.

 

This mod should work with both the screw retention issue as well as the lean burn one piece shaft situation.  I have the parts on hand, but 60+ hour weeks are killing my free time, because I have to jamb all my house/yard work into the weekend and with all the rain we've gotten the lawn was wild, lol. 

[Sniper]

Well, bad news on the coupler idea.  Worked all week to make sure I had today available to make my new setup.  Turns out the coupler idea will not work.  I should have looked at the block when I was coming up with a game plan, lol.

 

The hole in the block where the distributor SHAFT passes thru (not the housing) is just a hair larger than 1/2", my coupler is just a hair under 3/4".  So it will not work, unless I want to drill out the block and I'll pass on that.  Good thing I was in the mockup, lets see what the issues are stage and not the I'm done and ready to put it in stage.

 

So now I have to rethink this.  I see a couple of options, maybe, lol.  I can take the lower shaft portion of both distributors to the machine shop and have them cut and graft the flattie lower shaft to the slanty's parts, or maybe just make a new shaft and weld it on.  Or, possibly, maybe, lol, I can have a the slanty shaft extended.  I envision a stubshaft, machined to fit the oil pump and of the right length to make up the difference, then welded to the existing slanty shaft and machined to allow proper installation and removal from the distributor housing.

 

Or I can just find an OEM slanty distributor that has the proper upper shaft connection to work. (probably the simplest/cheapest right now).  However, that will not do the trick for the lean burn distributor I will be running once I get the EFI all installed.  The stubshaft extension idea might be the solution.  There is no real stress there so it's not like I need it certified for nuclear use, lol.

[vintage6t]

Maybe have your coupler welded or pin it to each shaft. Then have it turned down enough to fit the hole in the block.

[Bob Riding]

Sniper- we have Turner's Auto Wrecking nearby.

https://www.turnersautowrecking.com/index.html

I bet they have a a used Slant Six distributor. I would be happy to retrieve it for you and ship it. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

It has been a long time since seeing a slant 6 in the local wrecking yards.  I recall seeing but maybe two slant 6 distributors at swap meets in the last couple years.  It is ironic that with the number of these produced, so few are available.  Seems these when entering the local yards were immediately sent to the crushers and few parts stripped beforehand and only a handful of crushers stock the cars aside for a period to sell parts prior to crushing.  I am happy to state I live near such a yard and the manager puts things aside he knows I have an interest in so I can glean a few items.  

[Dartgame]

sniper - see if you find a small block lean burn dist. The upper part of the shaft is removable on them, graft that on to the flathead dist shaft and maybe that's your solution...

[Sniper]

4 hours ago, vintage6t said:

Maybe have your coupler welded or pin it to each shaft. Then have it turned down enough to fit the hole in the block.

 

I thought about that, but it'd be about the thickness of notebook paper.  Not sure that's hold up?

 

4 hours ago, Bob Riding said:

Sniper- we have Turner's Auto Wrecking nearby.

https://www.turnersautowrecking.com/index.html

I bet they have a a used Slant Six distributor. I would be happy to retrieve it for you and ship it. 

 

I appreciate that.  I picked up the /6 lean burn distributor off Ebay for $30, reman, unused in the box.  I might see what I can find.  Wow, I lucked out on that one, Wow, I just googled Cardone 30-3693 (what I bought) on Ebay, I lucked out.  Reman /6 electronic ignition units (not lean burn) are about $150, though I found one for $75 with no vacuum adance installed.  It's crazy, I can buy new /6 distributors for much less than the remans and in the case of the lean burn versions there's really nothing to reman, except maybe the bushings and possibly the pickup, though in the case of the one I have that consisted of sand blasting the pickup. 

 

3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

It has been a long time since seeing a slant 6 in the local wrecking yards. 

 

Yep, been a long time since I saw an LA motor in a boneyard too. 

 

3 hours ago, Dartgame said:

sniper - see if you find a small block lean burn dist. The upper part of the shaft is removable on them, graft that on to the flathead dist shaft and maybe that's your solution...

 

I might just do that, thanks

Edited September 15 by Sniper

[Los_Control]

<---- takes a aspirin

[Sniper]

I got to thinking I know, lol.

 

Langdon's used to sell an HEI based distributor for our engines.  Any one know what application is was based on?  I might get into making them if I can sort it out.

 

Thanks

[Bob Riding]

I purchased one from Tom a few years ago and just now got it installed. Based on my notes, he used GM’s mini HEI1110582 2D15, vacuum advance 754  24. This unit is based on GM’s 2.8 L S-10 truck from 1982 to 1984 and uses cap, coil, rotor, module, pick up coil, and vacuum can from this distributor. The optional round coil was typically a Ford electronic ignition from 1977 to 1984.

Spark plugs were champion 66 RJ 18Y C6 copper plus, 3/16 inch gasket style with a .060 gap.

On my test stand it fires right off and seems to be a fairly solid unit. I have the install instructions if you need them.

[Loren]

I have one of Langdon’s HEI distributors too.

I changed my mind about using it, so there it sits.

One neat thing about them is you can use a multi-spark unit with them.

Interestingly the ones I looked at are only in multi-spark mode until 3,600 rpm, which on a flathead is pretty much all the time.

I am not certain if that would be beneficial but it is fascinating.

I am staying with 6 volt and a point triggered CDI.

I have two Delta Mark Tens and two much more modern Winterburn CDIs.

[andyd]

When I bought the 41 plymouth Coupe it had been converted to 12 volts, negative earth, rewired to have a seperate ignition/start key.....original mid 50's mopar distributor......I bought & installed the HEI dissy from Tom Langdon and it was the best thing I did on the car.........instant starts, smoother running, just seemed better in every respect.......prior to the HEI I'd get in the car, turn the key, pump the accelerator pedal a couple of times & after winding over it would start but needed a minute or two before setting off...........with the HEI I could stand outside the car, turn the ionition key and without any input from me on the accelerator pedal the car would start, idle well and I'd get in and drive off.......unfortunately this is the only pic of the engine bay I have.......sold the car like a dope............thoroughly recommend the upgrade.....Andyd  

[MBSoPaB]

Sniper, back to your first post again - the difference for the retaining method for the top dizzy shaft may not matter.

 

Today I had some time free to move my distributor modernization forward a bit.  Turns out, my flathead distributor shaft  in the slant six distributor body could re-use the little hairpin clip to retain the modern top shaft, no problem.  Well, one minor problem, during disassembly, my hairpin clip went zooming off into the nether region of my work area.  I'll come back to that.  Anyway, the vernier calipers, depth gauge, and my old eyes said it would be close, and with my parts, it didn't even require any shims.

 

Now, about that hairpin clip... No parts to be had on a Saturday in the little town I live in, so I resorted to my own stockpile of what-not.  I found a little spring that was wound the correct direction, could lead itself onto the end of the lower dizzy shaft, and ride in the groove, where the former hairpin clip resided.  Give it a solid tug, and cut the tail off.  Shove the felt back in place for lubrication, and get on with dizzy reassembly.

Now moving on to the adjustment base; I've attached a photo or two of another converted dizzy that I picked up a year or two ago off of the eBay.  To me, the interesting part is the timing adjustment base that they sent along - homemade, reasonably well, and due to its clamping means, it's also height adjustable, meaning the dizzy *should* fit the short 23" engines and the long 25" engines.

 

Oh, the photos.  
• A couple of the fresh converted slant six dizzy with the flathead shaft.  Yup, that's an ice pick serving duty while I round up an appropriate roll of spring pin to hold the lower collar in place.  Monday, I hope.
• Black cap = the DST3690 modern slant six dizzy that Sniper and I, and perhaps others, have been working with.  

Brown cap = older O.E. slant six dizzy with homemade timing adjustment plate, and welded lower shaft.
• Springs; shorty was $0.67 at the hardware store, but turns out it's wound the wrong direction for my hairpin surrogate use.  The longer spring, clipped where the pencil points, was the donor for the hairpin surrogate.

 

But back to Sniper's Electronic Ignition Distributor Conversion; Sniper, if that Amazon.com dizzy and it's parts are still unscathed, perhaps you could make a few measurements and determine if indeed the old flathead six hairpin clip works to retain the old shaft in the new dizzy.
My results could have been a fluke, but I hope not!

 

MBSoPaB 

[Sniper]

Hmm, I will look at it.  Still got it all laid out on the workbench.  Having lost many a hairpin myself, I was extra careful to make sure it didn't fly away taking it off.  Of course, putting it on is another opportunity for it to fly away.

[Sniper]

On 9/22/2024 at 3:46 PM, MBSoPaB said:

But back to Sniper's Electronic Ignition Distributor Conversion; Sniper, if that Amazon.com dizzy and it's parts are still unscathed, perhaps you could make a few measurements and determine if indeed the old flathead six hairpin clip works to retain the old shaft in the new dizzy.
My results could have been a fluke, but I hope not!

 

I got it together today, you are correct it works.  But that clip is a pain to reinstall.  I think your spring idea is a better one.

 

The infamous clip

Edited September 26 by Sniper