Engine stand for Flathead 6

[Cooper40]

I'm looking into getting an engine stand for my 218 flathead 6. Thinking of getting this 2000lb capacity stand from HF. Think it'll be enough? I know, it's from HF but I've seen good reviews of guys putting engines that are heavier than the flathead with no issues.

[Ron175]

You should be fine. I rebuilt my 230 on a stand with half that rated weight capacity and it didn’t flinch…

[Cooper40]

@Ron175 Ok cool, just wanting to play it safe. 

[Dan Hiebert]

These flathead sixes in our cars are heavy, but not that heavy.  I've had a 230 on an "older" HF 2K lbs. stand with no issues, it was only a tad challenging to get the rotation part to work to my satisfaction.  

[Cooper40]

@Dan Hiebert Yeah I know they aren't anywhere near 2000lb im just wanting to play it safe. You think I could go with the 1000lb capacity one? I don't want to get it just to realize that it droops and isn't as stable. 

[Sam Buchanan]

I would want the 2000lb stand for our flathead. Though the smaller stand should be enough, I wouldn't want to see any flex in the stand while my meaty parts are working around and under the engine. 

[JBNeal]

7 hours ago, Cooper40 said:

I'm looking into getting an engine stand for my 218 flathead 6. Thinking of getting this 2000lb capacity stand from HF. Think it'll be enough? I know, it's from HF but I've seen good reviews of guys putting engines that are heavier than the flathead with no issues.

 800# has been discussed as the weight of a complete flathead, so that 2000# stand is way overkill...those things are made for small diesel engines and the like.  The 1000# 4-wheeled stand is adequate for the engine rebuilding task...though be mindful that HF may have some chinese quality issues

[Sam Buchanan]

3 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I would want the 2000lb stand for our flathead. Though the smaller stand should be enough, I wouldn't want to see any flex in the stand while my meaty parts are working around and under the engine. 

 

To follow up on my post, I have a stand that is similar to the HF 1000lb unit, and have had a 3.4 Chevy V-6, a four cylinder Continental aircraft engine, and some VW engines on the stand. It held all them but I always felt it was closer to its safety margin than I liked, especially if the stand needed to be moved! I used a prop under the Chevy V-6 just to make me feel a little better. I would not hang one of our flatheads on it.....

 

This is a major shop safety issue, choose wisely.

Edited May 31 by Sam Buchanan

[soth122003]

7 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

800# has been discussed as the weight of a complete flathead, so that 2000# stand is way overkill.

I looked at the 1k and 2k stands on HB. And while I agree with JB that the 1k should be enough for the engine, The way the base of the 1k and the 2k are designed would make me go with the 2k. The 1k base is square and more narrow at the front and the 2k base is y'd and seems like it would handle the weight distro better. This makes the 2k more stable when breaking torques and stuck bolts or rotating the engine etc. Last thing you need is a stand that will support the weight but tips over when breaking or applying torques or rotating the engine to work on it more easily.

 

Joe Lee

[Los_Control]

I have the 1000 pound stand and it works ok. First thing I did is make a longer handle for it, just 1/2" Galvanized pipe 3' long.

I needed a jack handle for my crane, I started with a 3' pipe sitting in the corner and was going to cut it to length .... just works perfect as is, also doubles as a handle for the engine stand.  The longer handle gives more leverage and control when turning the engine over.

 

My original intentions were to weld in a angle brace from post to base to add more stability .... Then I have some scrap square tubing, I was going to make a wider front base.

This would give more stability to prevent tipping over. Simple things to do and still may do it sometime.

 

I think so far the heaviest engine I've had on it is my flathead V8 .... It works fine as is. I also have seen others with same stands and have 426 Hemi's ... 440 big blocks complete and turn them over on the stands and not drop them or tip over.

I have also seen where A guy rolling one in a garage and get a wheel caught in a dip for a drain and tip it over ..... so they can tip over if not careful.

 

With all that said, the 2000 pound you list is tits! Very stable, foldable for storage .... very professional looking and would be difficult to ever tip over impossible to go wrong with it. .... You will be the talk of the town with that stand

 

Or be normal and use the other stand.

 

 

 

[Sniper]

Here's my write up on the one I have

 

v

[Sam Buchanan]

14 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Here's my write up on the one I have

 

v

 

That is the 2000lb version.

[JBNeal]

smaller engine stands work well on smooth concrete floors with smooth deliberate work applied...rough floors and impatient jerky action are a recipe for disaster as these smaller stands' top heavy nature rears its ugly head.  To maximize my hobby budget, I have had to make concessions such as opting for the 1000# engine stand and being careful while using it.  On more than one occasion, it meant using the engine hoist to set the flathead block on the 2x4 stand to get some leverage.  Neither takes up a lot of space nor costs much and both got the job done.

 

additional information - 2x4 engine stand 

additional information - flathead engine stand mounting 

[Sniper]

18 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

That is the 2000lb version.

 

Isn't that what the OP asked about?

[Los_Control]

It is, but here is the one he is considering on buying .... total different animal. And $200 which is not terrible.

 

[50 coupe]

I have the HF 2k stand. Used if for my 383 B motor and even used is for a run stand for the same motor. Definitely stable enough. 

[Sam Buchanan]

Once again......we are talking past each other...............

 

Cooper40, the OP, asked which HF stand would be more suitable for his flattie, the 1000lb model or the 2000lb model.

 

Some offered that they thought the 1000lb stand would be adequate since the engine weighs ~700lb.

 

Others (including myself) stated concern that stability would be marginal with the smaller stand and the 2000lb stand would be a better choice.

 

Some have stated their good service with the larger stand.

 

Sniper posted a thread showing him using the 2000lb stand.

 

The stand Sniper referenced and the one Los Control showed are both HF 2000lb stands.

 

It appears some think the smaller stand will work if care is taken and it is used on a smooth floor....and most agree the 2000lb stand is a fine choice.

Edited May 31 by Sam Buchanan

[Cooper40]

I'm going to go with the 2000lb version. Would rather play it safe and know that the stand is plenty for the engine. 

 

On a different subject, where would i connect the chain when pulling the engine? On the head or on the sides of the block? Also in terms of chain, when buying should I just ask for one that's rated for 1000lb?

Thanks again guys for all the help. 

[Sniper]

3 hours ago, Los_Control said:

It is, but here is the one he is considering on buying .... total different animal. And $200 which is not terrible.

 

Other than the label and some different paint, looks the same to me.

 

Anyway, I offer no opinions on it other than to point out the flat head will only bolt up one way, in my experience.

[Los_Control]

48 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Other than the label and some different paint, looks the same to me.

 

Fair enough, the photos in your post do not show the base ..... To me the base is far superior to other bases.

[Kilgore47]

14 hours ago, Cooper40 said:

I'm going to go with the 2000lb version.

Good choice Cooper40.  

[soth122003]

Cooper check out this vid from Keithb7. You can probably rent a load leveler from an auto parts store for free. Most auto parts stores have a loan a tool program, they charge the tool cost to rent and then when you bring the tool back they refund your money. Or just buy one.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html?_br_psugg_q=load+leveler

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hy3RFIwMomo

 

Joe Lee 

Edited June 1 by soth122003

[D35 Torpedo]

I think i used the head bolts to chain to. I remember being concerned about using bolt holes in the head, opting to lift from the block. You get the size chain that fits your bolts. 

[Sniper]

I picked up a lifting eye that screws in where a head bolt would go.  It's rated for 9000 lbs

 

https://www.williams-industrial.com/us_en/shoulder-eye-bolt---7-16--jhweb-24t.html

 

 

[Cooper40]

@soth122003 Yes I've watched that video a bunch actually haha. That's a good idea to get a load leveler, it'll definitely make it a lot easier. Our car is out on grass away from our barn that we'll be putting the engine into so we're thinking of using our grandpa's tractor that has this grapple attachment to take it out. Might make it interesting connecting the load leveler to it but it'll be a lot easier to transport. 

 

@D35 Torpedo Ok, so you used your head bolts but put them into the side of the block instead of the head? I'll probably get new bolts because those head bolts were rusted and I don't trust them!