Wheel alignment specs (rear axle)

[Ivan_B]

Quick question: does anyone have the specs for the 1940s wheel alignment, both - front and rear? The Mopar manual only lists the front axle specs.

I am at the point of checking my alignment, because the car is wandering a bit. Just as I expected, I am ~3/16 toe out at the front ? and ~1/4 toe in at the rear end. I'll adjust the front to 1/32 in, tomorrow, but what about the rear? I know it is not adjustable, but do I have at least the approximately correct setting? I believe that the wheels should be slightly in to help steering, is that correct? Also, the rear wheel base is wider on my car so the toe in is probably important.

[kencombs]

I may be wrong, but IMO if the rear wheels are not dead vertical and parallel with each other something is bent.  Axle, housing or wheels.   When modifying rear axle housings great care is taken to make sure those targets are met.  

Edited November 12, 2023 by kencombs

[Dave72dt]

Your toe out in the front is probably your wandering problem, especially if running bias ply tires.   Any worn suspension parts in the front need to be dealt with before any attempt at alignment.  You may be able to get a truck shop to bend the rear axle if you find it necessary but I think that would be money poorly spent.

[Ivan_B]

Update: performed a DIY toe adjustment. It is definitely better than it used to be. The car, now, still pulls a bit to the right (used to be the opposite way) but no more wandering. Also, I improved the steering wheel positioning, but it is still not perfectly straight. I think I have too much play, so I'll tighten the steering box and re-align.

 

In conclusion, the DIY toe is definitely doable and quite fun to do

Edited November 20, 2023 by Ivan_B

[Dodgeb4ya]

As mentioned...No toe in/out on the MoPar rear axle.

[andyd]

Ivan........I've found that the rubber steering box isolators that go between the steering box & frame & outer steering box plate if are old tend to soften and allow movement of the steering box, replacements ones were available  & do make a difference........andyd

[Sniper]

Might not hurt to put a torque wrench on those steering box mounting bolts.  I did on mine and they weren't to spec.

[Ivan_B]

5 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

As mentioned...No toe in/out on the MoPar rear axle.

I am having difficulties understanding how the rear axle would be bent that much. Also, there is probably some factory +/- tolerance, so it would be good to know what it is. Perhaps, I should re-check it, maybe I just did not measure correctly.

 

2 hours ago, andyd said:

Ivan........I've found that the rubber steering box isolators that go between the steering box & frame & outer steering box plate if are old tend to soften and allow movement of the steering box, replacements ones were available  & do make a difference........andyd

 

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

Might not hurt to put a torque wrench on those steering box mounting bolts. 

Good point. I did not notice the box being loose, but I'll check it, thanks.

[Plymouthy Adams]

set the rear axle is thrust and centerline of the chassis.....square the fronts to the rear after that, when squared and thrust is correct the toe of the front will then be neutral, divide the total toe by half and adjust each front wheel toe that amount with regard to centering the steering wheel at the same time, issues with this, no tools/parallel bars to do this, suggest an alignment shop.  Get the location of the trammel points and check the square your frame.  Parallel bars will tell you if you have a bent axle or maybe you just have one bent rim....combination of both....you must verify all components individually before treating as an assembly

[Ivan_B]

Update: the steering box is a bit loose, I can see it moving slightly while turning the wheel. Will fix that and re-check my toe

[Tom Skinner]

Plymouthy Adams has it right above.