Water pump “heater outlet flange”?

[al3xcooktattoos]

Can anyone tell me what this part is called and know where I can get one? I’m upgrading the entire cooling system and I can’t seem to find the right words to search for. 
it’s the flange on top of the water pump that clamps to the hose that goes to the heater core (I assume). 
I also having trouble finding the right water outlet for the top of the motor (in the same photo) 
thanks in advance!
 

[joecoozie]

 

Edited May 2, 2023 by joecoozie
Incorrect

[Merle Coggins]

The elbow that connects the heater hose to the water pump is just known as a Heater Hose Connector. I found this one on Napaonline.com that should fit that application.

The other piece is your thermostat housing. That one appears to be the later version that should be available at most vendors. 

 

 

[desoto1939]

You have a non bypass housing fitting. Seach ebay or call the major MoPar vendors.

 

Rich Hartung

[al3xcooktattoos]

On 5/2/2023 at 4:50 AM, Merle Coggins said:

The elbow that connects the heater hose to the water pump is just known as a Heater Hose Connector. I found this one on Napaonline.com that should fit that application.

The other piece is your thermostat housing. That one appears to be the later version that should be available at most vendors. 

 

 

Well, i found the 90 degree connector at my local Napa , but I’m still on the search for the flat flange it screws into. Worst comes to worst, I’ll just clean up the existing part and hope it holds water ..  I’m also looking for the connector that leaves the head on the return hose…  will post a pic as soon as I get a chance … hope to do the install this weekend, weather permitting!

[Sniper]

That port in my water pump is threaded, yours might be too.

 

The connector in the head is usually a valve to control the water flow.  In my case is is a cable operated one that allows me to adjust the heat from the driver's seat, in other cases it's just an on/off valve,

[Sam Buchanan]

Another option is to put a valve in the heater hose. The on/off valve on the aft end of the head of my P15 was stuck open and I didn't want to risk it breaking off in the head if I tried to replace it. There are cable operated valves that install inline like this one but I haven't found that upgrade necessary, I just open and close the valve a couple of times per year when seasons change.

 

Edited May 5, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[desoto1939]

Here is a picture of the shutoff valve that threads into the head near the number 6 sparkplug. They are on ebay and also Andy B sells them on his website.

 

search Heater shut off valve.

 

Rich

[kencombs]

8 hours ago, al3xcooktattoos said:

Well, i found the 90 degree connector at my local Napa , but I’m still on the search for the flat flange it screws into. Worst comes to worst, I’ll just clean up the existing part and hope it holds water ..  I’m also looking for the connector that leaves the head on the return hose…  will post a pic as soon as I get a chance … hope to do the install this weekend, weather permitting!

That cast iron flange is probably still fine, just needs a good cleanup.  Removing the ell may be a challenge, steel pipe in cast iron tends to rust tightly.  Last resort for me is always, cut the pipe flush with the cast piece and use a hacksaw blade to cut through the pipe internally in a couple of places and 'peel' it out.  You may nick the internal threads but a little sealer will keep it from leaking.

 

[al3xcooktattoos]

Thanks, guys for all your help.  I’m still waiting on the shutoff valve to show up, but cleaned up the flange on top of the water pump and reinstalled it.  Kencombs was definitely right, the two pieces were pretty much seized together but it’s still solid.  
now that I’ve replaced every other part of the cooling system, my heater core is dumping coolant all over my floor,  so it looks like I’ll be replacing that too.  ?

 

im considering just putting a valve in the heater hose and closing it  a-la sambuchanan. Hoping that will get me through the summer without having to drain this thing again! 
 

By the way, shout out to Michael at Mopar pro.com.  He has had almost every single part I have needed in this process.  

thanks to all for your input!
 

[Los_Control]

Just now, al3xcooktattoos said:

m considering just putting a valve in the heater hose and closing it  a-la sambuchanan. Hoping that will get me through the summer without having to drain this thing again! 

Absolutely add a valve, would be considered a upgrade in my opinion.

The hot water still circulates through the heater, even though you may have the fan off, it is still adding heat to the cabin .... in the summer you do not want that.

So the valve will control this.

I'm guessing your defrosters will still work without heat, if you get caught in the rain & window fogging up.

 

My 1949 truck did not have a factory heater, they were added on at the dealer or aftermarket. My truck had a valve installed with the heater.

 

It needed to be replaced, I just grabbed a ball valve from the local hardware store. It does not look correct or original, works just fine.

I'm keeping my eyes open for a valve that will look correct to change it with in the future.

[desoto1939]

I install two of the heater shut off vales, one at the back of the block and the other one at the top of the waterpump where the metal elbow would be installed.

 

reason:  I now can completely control the flow of water thru the heater. I can shut off the entire flow of water and if if did have a leak in the heater core the was from the engine will not flow to the heater core. Also when you have to remove the heater as such in your situation the only water I have to worry about is what is the two rubber hoses leading to the heater. I can then darin them individually and then the only water would be what is contained in the heater core. Make life easier to maintain the flow of water. Always put some form of antisieze on the thread of the shut off valves.

 

Rich Hartung

[Los_Control]

Excellent point Rich. .... Just so common to see one valve, two makes more sense.

[al3xcooktattoos]

On 5/18/2023 at 9:45 AM, desoto1939 said:

I install two of the heater shut off vales, one at the back of the block and the other one at the top of the waterpump where the metal elbow would be installed.

 

reason:  I now can completely control the flow of water thru the heater. I can shut off the entire flow of water and if if did have a leak in the heater core the was from the engine will not flow to the heater core. Also when you have to remove the heater as such in your situation the only water I have to worry about is what is the two rubber hoses leading to the heater. I can then darin them individually and then the only water would be what is contained in the heater core. Make life easier to maintain the flow of water. Always put some form of antisieze on the thread of the shut off valves.

 

Rich Hartung

I think this is my plan.  I figure I can install the two valves and cut the flow off until I get around to switching out the heater core. 
most definitely plan to replace it, but I’m not in a huge rush if its not dripping on my floor.   And anyway, summer  is really starting to happen up here in WA, so I have at least a couple months before I’ll really need heat.  
 

thanks again guys!!

cheers

Alex Cook