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Now I’m really confused


Doug&Deb

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I’m definitely leaning towards the pump being the culprit but I need to drop the tank also. I have a leak somewhere on top but not from the sending unit. I’m planning on swapping engines soon and I don’t want this to continue to be a problem. The rebuild has a good mechanical pump so I want to check the tank and fix or replace if necessary. I appreciate all of the help. This forum keeps me half ways sane lol. In the meantime I’m going to drive it and hopefully the electric pump keeps it going.

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5 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

 

Things only really cleared up when I replaced the Generator. Oh and the timing.  If you stand infront of the car and look at the engine,  The engine turns clockwise,  Every other engine I have worked on turned ANTI-clockwise.   When I was setting the timing I was accidentally retarding the timing thinking I was advancing it.

 

 

What have you been working on!?   With the exception of some dual engine boats i've never encountered a CCrotation.

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10 hours ago, Doug&Deb said:

DJK what you’re describing sounds like fuel percolation. That happens when you shut the car off for a short time and it’s hard to restart or it stalls after being restarted. To answer the other questions: my cap is vented and I don’t think the electric pump is causing any restriction. I’ve had it on the car for about 2 years now and this problem just started. 

Vapor lock or percolation to me result in the same thing, but either one usually occurs sitting with engine off, I may stand to be corrected. I was thinking a restriction in your manual pump which would cause the e pump ineffective???? I completely eliminated the manual pump and use a Carter P4259.

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

What have you been working on!?   With the exception of some dual engine boats i've never encountered a CCrotation.

Maybe he's down under.  The toilets rotate backwards, why no the engines, lol.

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1 hour ago, DJK said:

Vapor lock or percolation to me result in the same thing, but either one usually occurs sitting with engine off, I may stand to be corrected. 

 

I suffered vapor lock on a very hot day here. It was over 100F. I was part of a large group of vintage cars. In excess of 150 cars I estimate. It was slow going in the downtown core. Block to block, light to light. My engine was getting hot and it started bucking and kicking. I left the parade of cars, and got my ground speed up on more-open roads. Shortly after I got my speed up, the wind cooled things down. No more engine bucking. It was indeed vapor lock.  On my other car I experienced similar. I installed a back up 6V electric fuel pump, in line. When vapor lock starts to appear,  I hit the electric pump toggle switch and the symptoms immediately disappear. Whether parked or when actually driving it has happened to me. The electric backup pump solves it. I still run mechanical fuel pumps full time on both of my old Mopars. I have rebuilt them both myself. It's not hard to do. Since those episodes I also only run non-ethanol infused fuel. It helps too.

Edited by keithb7
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Three changes I make to my cars;

 

1. Electric fuel pump (full time) and a regulator.

2. 12volt and alternator

3. Electronic ignition - Pertronix.

 

If your fuel filter is clean then I would not bother with cleaning the fuel tank, though it wouldn't hurt. I am about to cut open and clean the tank on a '74 DS23 Citroen, it's been causing me all sorts of trouble.

 

 

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26 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

 LA block V-8s,  Subaru boxer engines,  etc etc.  I may just be confused again!

 

Haven't seen under the hood of a Subi in years, but all  mopars(flatheads, /6, all V-8s) are cw rotation.  Again, except for some dual boat installs.

 

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