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1954 Belvedere Powerflite


DakotaFrank

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I am not going to ask “what is this worth”.  Tho I am looking for some advice about this car I found: 1954 Plymouth Belvedere 4-door with Powerflite.  Sitting outdoors 10 years +.  Doors, windows, trunk and hood kept closed, and unvandalized.  Four flat tires. Interior looks good!  “Ran when parked”, but mechanical condition unknown.  It has a title.   I guess it has a 230?

I brought a couple of old Chevy pickups back to life in the past that were in worse shape.  But what am I in for with this car?  Thanks. 
(I will try to upload some pictures.)

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See picture.  Body is solid and straight, and I think the paint could be brought back to life with some elbow grease. 
Are brake parts available?

What about the PF transmission?

 I am guessing engine parts can be sourced without too much trouble?

309A4374-CAC4-44C5-9760-949DFAD905C1.jpeg

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Good looking car!  My 1954 Royal 4 door with a Hemi and Powerflite in very original condition cost 2000 about 10 years ago.  It did not run and needed brakes.

 

Parts are available and easier to find than you would think.  As for brakes, they can be gotten from a number of places and there are disc brake kits available.  As for the Powerflite, mine has been a great transmission.  It was sticky and gummed up from sitting for years.  I changed the fluid and it worked, but was having problems shifting.  I replaced the governor with an NOS unit off eBay and it works great.  I will get it rebuilt - eventually.

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Engine parts are readily available.  Not too sure about the PF though.  Good trans.  There was only one common issue with them.  The rev band apply link could be broken if treated to ‘spirited’ throttle application in reverse.   DAMHIKT

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Nope, no mopar that I am aware of has a torque tube drive, all mopars were/are open drive, ie  spinning driveshaft with uni joints or ball & trunion joints front & rear.......Andy Bernbaums used to carry Powerflite rebuild kits and parts, I'd try them.....as for whats it worth as its a 4dr in general they are worth much less than a 2dr,coupe, convert or wagon but in some respects they are looked upon as something different when they turn up at a show because of that fact..........it does look like one that would clean up well..........regards from Oz......andyd

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14 minutes ago, DakotaFrank said:

Thanks for all responses.  Are shop/repair manuals/reprints available?  Online?

I've seen originals on eBay, but not right now.   A Motor's manual of the correct era will provide all the mechanical info you'll need.  Body stuff is not covered however so a factory manual may be needed for that.

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your 1954 model being an automatic and 230 is not covered in the 1954 shop manual and the data you will need will be that of the 1955 model year..  If you lucky you can find a few bulletins on the tranny, power brakes and power steering for the model year also...but then again, will be in the 1955 book.  The auto and 230 was a mid year introduction.

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Going by what you said in your original post -"Sitting outdoors 10 years +" -

If you are truly interested in this car I would jack it up, remove the tires (put air in them, too) and crawl around underneath the car and pay particular attention to the floors/rocker panels/trunk area/frame and body mounts. I don't care how dry an area the car is located in, sitting on dirt for 10+ years can wreak havoc on the underside of ANY car. 

Also, check to see if the engine is free or stuck by trying to turn it, by hand, using the fan - you may have to put some (hand) pressure on the fan belt so it doesn't slip while trying to turn the engine.

Just make sure you check it out thoroughly, top & bottom, before diving into it headfirst.

 

BTW (not that it matters much) - I had a 1954 Belvedere 4-door way back in the late 70's. It was yellow/white. 3-speed. It "ran" but boy did it smoke like a chimney. Also, the rear springs (and you should check the ones on this car) were so worn out that when I drove at night with the low-beams on I was constantly getting "flashed" by on-coming traffic because they thought I had the high-beams on. Because the rear springs were so worn that made the back end of the car sag and it raised the front end up appearing to on-coming traffic that I had the high-beams on. 

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if the car has power brakes the booster will cost around $400 to rebuild. you can just bypass it and have manual brakes that will work just fine. i just bought new shoes and wheel cylinders for my 54 windsor [front brakes ] from rock auto. the chinese cylinders are poor quality, but much cheaper than re-sleeving. if you want to keep the power brakes you need a master cylinder that is specific to power brakes. i learned that the only difference is there is a fitting on the top of the master that allows fluid from the booster to return to the master if any passes by the diaphragm in the booster. some places will try to charge over $300 for the correct one. shop around and you will find one for abuot $150. you can rebuild yours or re-sleeve it.the rebuild kits are the same. i have a rebuilt booster sitting in my garage,just my old age getting in the way of installing it. maybe when the weather cools down. if the motor turns freely, it will run. nice belvedere.   capt den

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Thanks for all responses.  It is helpful. 
A second look has left me less enthusiastic…  I will post some pictures.  I got the driver’s door open enough to slide behind the steering wheel.  The brake pedal is on the floor.  The ignition switch is dangling by its wires under the dash.  The seller said the interior had been replaced years ago and I believe it.  The headliner and upholstery look new, albeit dirty.  All other doors I get open only a few inches.  Got the trunk open and it’s full of junk/parts.  I could not get the hood open.  Rusty hinges.  I didn’t want to force it.  So the engine condition is unknown.  
The first pic is the vehicle number tag.  I don’t know if this is original/ correct or not.  

4865A7FB-833B-4C30-A14B-F54B4D41370B.jpeg
 

Edit 7/24: thanks to another forum member I learned this is an Evansville-built car. Thanks!!

Edited by DakotaFrank
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On this stuff, eBay is your friend for quick results for parts.  The parts are all out there even without eBay.  After seeing the interior, I would be even MORE enthusiastic!  Good looking car that really does not look like it will take much to be road worthy!   A brake rebuild would be a given on almost any of these cars and should not deter you.  What is the seller looking to get?

Edited by nonstop
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I'd think that the tailight & backup lenses should be around , and yep the upholstery looks good..........a shame about that rear bumper chrome.........the car looks like a previous owner did spend some money on it re the upholstery, but sitting on the ground is not doing it any favours......what do the rockers look like?........that rust showing when you opened the rear passenger door.........does any of it look like its rusted thru?..........thats not a good area for rust to occour in........it really needs someone to love it....lol..how much do the current owners want for it?.............andyd... 

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Thanks again!  The seller has not stated a price.  He is wanting an offer/offers.  Most offers he has received over the years have been lowball (his word).  So I am trying to decide 1) if I “really” want it, and 2) what I am willing to spend.  Another factor to consider: it is 400 miles from home.   

Edited by DakotaFrank
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1 hour ago, DakotaFrank said:

Most offers he has received over the years have been lowball

 

Don't get your heart set on it.  When the seller talks about being low balled he wants more than it's worth.  I paid $4k for my 51, which was in much better shape, ran, drove, stopped, was registered, etc.  Without being able to look under the hood, see if the engine was locked up or not, any missing parts, etc I wouldn't pay more than $1500, offer less bargain up to no more than $1500.

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