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Before I screw up my Crank Hub


Bryan

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Is this the proper way to pull the hub off?   From other posts I'm thinking you don't have to take the large center nut off.  I didn't want to use a puller with 2 side bolts screwed into the hub. Was afraid they would strip.   Already bent a grade 8 bolt in the center stuffed in the hole.

IMG_5466 crank hub.jpg

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you should invest in a hub puller or go to the parts house and pay the deposit, use their's and return if for full refund of your deposit....at minimum back the bolt off a couple turns to use it for getting it to break free and start moving, use a sacrificial steel plate to prevent damage to the bolt....then remove the bolt and use a socket or other suitable slug in the crank hole so to protect the threads...

 

Pictured below is a universal harmonic balancer/hub puller...

Image 1 - New ATP Harmonic Engineering mechanic Wheel Puller

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Found a way to keep the engine from turning. Cardboard pad one top.  Head back on.  Bolt still won't budge. Heating, oiling, 36" breaker bar.  Flexing the bar but don't want to break the bolt. 

IMG_5469.jpg

IMG_5467 sm.jpg

IMG_5468 sm.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

you should invest in a hub puller or go to the parts house and pay the deposit, use their's and return if for full refund of your deposit....at minimum back the bolt off a couple turns to use it for getting it to break free and start moving, use a sacrificial steel plate to prevent damage to the bolt....then remove the bolt and use a socket or other suitable slug in the crank hole so to protect the threads...

 

Pictured below is a universal harmonic balancer/hub puller...

 

I have tools similar to that.   What I have would work if I could get the center bolt to move. Glad I didn't keep pulling at the hub while the center bolt was in.

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1 minute ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

these usually will break free with an impact gun....if nothing else, with the pulley off you are free to use a slug wrench

Don't know what a slug wrench is.. a hammer beating on my wrench? ?

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12 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Found a way to keep the engine from turning. Cardboard pad one top.  Head back on.  Bolt still won't budge. Heating, oiling, 36" breaker bar.  Flexing the bar but don't want to break the bolt. 

IMG_5469.jpg

IMG_5467 sm.jpg

IMG_5468 sm.jpg

 

Looks like a good way to bend a connecting rod..........

 

Use the right puller and a heavy impact driver, some heat with a torch might help.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Looks like a good way to bend a connecting rod..........

 

At this point I don't give a crap..What's another $50?   Maybe I should go buy the magic $300 compressor and get the magic $100 impact wrench set so I can break the bolt off anyway.

 

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Bryan.........do you still have the crank pulley available?.........if so bolt it back on with just 2 bolts into the crank hub, then use a block of wood wedged between the pulley and the side of the chassis on the passenger side which will use the weight of the engine to lock the pulley and hence the hub and allow you to undo the centre bolt........from memory its 1 & 13/16th size........once the bolt is removed the puller you are using "should" work once you take the pelly back off...............I used this method on the crank hub/pulley when I removed the assembly in my 1941 Plymouth a few years ago.........but I would not be trying the cardboard thing on top of the piston.........as Sam mentioned a good way to bend a conrod..............regards from Oz.........andyd

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5 minutes ago, Andydodge said:

Bryan.........do you still have the crank pulley available?.........if so bolt it back on with just 2 bolts into the crank hub, then use a block of wood wedged between the pulley and the side of the chassis on the passenger side which will use the weight of the engine to lock the pulley and hence the hub and allow you to undo the centre bolt......

Yeah, thanks. Might try that some other day.  Had a run of luck recently.  Valve spring compressor from Ebay had been repaired by someone with weak side screw. He won't answer. That slowed me up. Probably can fix it but will take time.  Now this..all afternoon.

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It's not, everything is off. I might use the "damper back on" method and line up the small bolt heads so I can get the large socket on. I could put a lot more force on it with my 3 ft breaker bar, just afraid of breaking the bolt or something else. Had a lot of stuff breaking here lately. been heating it, tapping it, oiling it, etc.   If the center bolt breaks what will it screw up?  The hub or the crankshaft end?

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I'm not trying to have a "holier than thou" attitude but if you have the pulley.....reattach it to the crank hub with 2 of the bolts( 5/16 or 3/8th), wedge a block of wood between the pulley and frame and use the 3foot breaker bar you have on the socket and the centre bolt is undone, then unbolt the pulley from the hub and use the puller on the hub to remove it...........it may even be a little loose after the centre bolt is undone..............this centre bolt is about 1" in diameter with a fine UNF thread..........I would NOT expect the centre bolt to break...............andyd      

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