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Problem with attaching turn buckle to clutch pedal shaft on 48 DeSoto.


MarcDeSoto

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I'm trying to attach the turn buckle to the clutch pedal and it requires a 3/8 X 24 X 1 3/32" bolt.  Try asking for that size at your local hardware!  The closest they have is 1 1/4" long bolt, but they don't have anything with a cotter pin hole at the end.  I think a cotter pin with the slotted nut is necessary because you can't tighten this connection too tight because it will stop movement on the clutch pedal.  So there needs to be a loose enough connection for the pedal to work and the cotter pin prevents the nut from coming unscrewed and falling off.  And I don't think you should substitute a clevis pin on this high pressure connection.  Can I drill a hole through the end of the bolt, or are automotive bolts too hard for that?  

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Automotive bolts vary in hardness.  look at the head of the bolt and it will tell you the hardness.

 

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

 

Can you flip the bolt around so the nut is on the other side, that might give you more room in there.  You could consider a shouldered bolt there.

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15 hours ago, 61spit said:

Check with Aircraft Spruce. You can get drilled bolts and castle nuts. Wide range of sizes. aircraftspruce.com

I looked at their site and I see a 1 3/32" long bolt, but they don't say what size bolt it is, or the threads per inch.  I need a 7/16 x 24 x 1  3/32 bolt with a hole at the end for a cotter pin.  

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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I would think a 3/8" X 24  castellated nut should be available in your local area.

As mentioned shorten a bolt and drill it.

 

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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The factory turn buckle rod castellated nut is a 3/8" X 24.

The bolt can  be hand drilled....center punch it and using a very sharp drill bit do it.

Otherwise find someone to do it.

Really though you can do it. Practice on another bolt.

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6 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Do you mean a 7/16" castellated nut?  I don't have a drill press, which I think is necessary for drilling a hole in a bolt.  

Are you sure it's 7/16 - 24 ?   Can't find that pitch in McMaster-Carr or my thread checker.  Only 7/16-14. But they don't have that bolt with cotter pin hole. Maybe a little longer bolt with a lock washer and a 2nd nut?  Or loctite? Don't think I could drill a small hole in a bolt side.  Oops -  see that you mean 3/8..

Edited by Bryan
Saw 3/8..
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Find the proper bolt and buy an extra nut. The nut gives you a flat spot to drill on and little chance of messing up threads if you go through both. Also you can likely put the head and the nut in a vice to hold it steady.

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if...you are drilling round stock...you really should have a v-block on hand....while not 100% necessary it is 100% better to use a block.  Small spring loaded center punch, how did I ever work without one.  Small file for a ever so small flat spot is an aid also.   Ed's use of predrilled nuts to use as slip over or threading on is a great work save also...would take but a few minutes to create a set of these to have on hand.   As with all things, being a bit more proactive reaps big rewards on the other end.  I use nuts of different sizes that have been square out with my special square extractors to use to slip over the ends of taps for when you need to chase a hole that you cannot get a tap handle into the area but a socket and ratchet, plenty of room.  These I also recommend you have on hand.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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My bad.  I don't know why I said I need a 7/16 bolt.  I need a 3/8 x 24 x 1 /3/32" long.  Thank you Brian.  That bolt looks like it would work even though  it is only partially threaded.  I would have to buy 5, but the price isn't too bad.  Thanks.  Marc.

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1 minute ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Only one problem with this size.  I need a 1 3/32" long bolt, and this one is just 1/64" short.  Maybe that wouldn't matter, I don't know.  Marc.

Probably wouldn't matter.. looks like a lot more than that sticking out on the original.. 

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