61spit

Glad you got it to fit correctly. Would have been a pain to try and return it all these years later.

What if you flip the tail pipe end for end? Looks like the end you have pointing to the muffler is bent to exhaust out the side at the back rather than straight out the back. Maybe things will line up better.

That should make things easier to sort out as you install and hook up each terminal.

I think my 1953 Suburban did. I have 10 sets of old rubber mounts and the front frame mount has the large hole for the raised center like you have in your photo of the two rubber discs. I think that there are only 10 mounting points for the station wagon.

Nice instructional video. I would give it a try to make a mount. No specialty tools to speak of and it looks like a factory mount. Thanks for posting.

Looks like it (pin 6-43-8) goes through the hole in the master cylinder and through the shaft to hold it centered in place and to keep it from rotating in the master cylinder. Could be that the replacement master cylinder does not have the hole in it.

Keith, Is this the same size you need? I don't know what shipping would be from them but the cost is considerably less for the part itself. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63645/applications

I think that the horn wire from the steering column comes out through that hole in the bottom. It is a pretty long tube so I doubt that the oil is going in the top of it. It looks like it is seeping around where the tube is swagged to the cover. I have seen postings about using the corn head grease and it seems to be a good option.

That bottom one should be all one piece. The one you have is broken. Sometimes they show up on Ebay but often they are pretty pitted. I think that trim script is the same for all the models in 1953. It was on the lower edge of the trunk lid on the sedans.

Yes you are right. The top one goes on the dash to the far right and the lower, larger one goes in the middle of the tailgate. There should be 3 pins on the back of it.

I think you have one early and one late version of the bezels.

Yes, the bearings need to be in place first. In your original posting picture it was all together you just needed the clip to hold it all in place. Slip the clip over the post that sticks out from the frame and squeeze the ears together and insert into the end of the torque tube and set it in the groove that is there and release the ears. That should lock it into the groove and hold the bearings in place.

It goes in the groove on the inside of the torque tube to hold the bearing pieces inside.

You're right. That doesn't make sense for cylinders #2 & #5. It must have something to do with where those cylinders are in their travel as to compression stroke or power stroke when #1 is in firing position or #6 is in firing position.

In the technical drop down menu at the top of the web site there is a section called tech tips. It has a section on valve adjustment. According to it you can set all of the valves with the engine in just two different spots. Take a look at it and see if it makes sense to you.