Cracked block p20

[Chachos 49]

Hey y’all, I have a 1950 Plymouth it’s got a crack on the block about 8 inches horizontally right below the head where the coolant flows through. I’ve heard old tales of people who have used jb weld or something of that sort to seal it. Some like it and it works for many years others don’t like it. I really don’t want to spend the money on getting a new block and a rebuild. I would like to know your thoughts on it! Good or bad, I would especially like to hear from you that have actually done it and your experience with it. Thank you 

[Dodgeb4ya]

JB will not stop that crack from leaking.

You can try magic sealers but after awhile they will leak.

A common cause of a crack close to the head deck area is tightening head bolts or studs to tight...

That crack will move during hot and cold cycles....sealant won't work well.

To do it right so it will not leak.....

Lock and Stitch Block Repair or a system similar.

[Chachos 49]

What do you mean by lock and stictch block repair? 

[Dodgeb4ya]

http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html

Not cheap!

[RobertKB]

I would look for a decent used engine. It will be cheaper than a rebuild or lock and stitch repair. 

[Sniper]

Lock and stitch isn't expensive if you do it the old fashioned way, I'll see if I can find a video

[Plymouthy Adams]

you talking of the drill and tap insert screw method?.....then grid down to make it look purdy...

[chrysler1941]

That's a serious crack. Why didn't plug pop? There may be more internal cracks.

You now have a MoPar coffee table stand

Edited June 1, 2021 by chrysler1941

[Plymouthy Adams]

actually it appears to me the plug on the lower right of the picture did pop at an angle as it is showing above the lip of the machined block boss...and again, could just be an illusion as photographed...

[Chachos 49]

I think I found my video

[Dodgeb4ya]

I did a 35 Airflow that was cracked in the exact same spot below the deck with Belzona $$...after a month it was leaking again.

 The engine shown above really should be replaced IMO.

Lock and Stitch is a special type of locking thread( requires their own tooling drills and taps)  system that pulls the two sides of the crack together.

The old style tapered threaded stitch pins put some force on the repaired crack.

[Booger]

sorry about your misfortune

but that picture has a abstract painting look, Picasso like

insure for $20k

[wagoneer]

You may spend a lot more than $500 and a lot of hours fixing your original block with only more leaks to show.. 

 

Based on other posts, and those online, you should be able to get a new block relatively inexpensively. This 1950 dodge block from Frenchlake auto is 150 + 375 in freight shipping -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/143965097540?hash=item2184fd0e44:g:xMsAAOSwagpgPV-Y

 

That dodge block should drop right into the Plymouth spot... after a bit of cleanup and its own TLC.

Edited June 1, 2021 by wagoneer

[Booger]

Im not to far from French Lake I can do a visual

theres more than one out there

[DonaldSmith]

Lock and Stitch was used to repair the dome of the US capitol building.  (Trivia: The city is Capital; the hill, building and its dome are Capitol, after the Capitoline hill in Rome.) 

[knuckleharley]

Judging from what LOOKS like freeze plugs being pushed out of the block by rusty water pressure,I would say that crack is not your only problem. Yes,you CAN fix one by welding it up if you or whoever you turn it over to knows what they are doing,but given what looks like all the rust inside that engine,I would just be looking for another block. Try to find one with the same bore and stroke as the one you have now so maybe you can reuse some of the parts in the future. Yeah,so I'm cheap. Sue me!

 

I know if it were ME,I wouldn't think about doing anything to that engine but pulling it out and using it for parts. I hate the idea of having to do the same work twice.