Rear End swap

[Crisjr14]

Ok in need of some more help here from you all no offense but old timers who have the knowledge and wisdom to help me out once again on my '53 dodge meadowbrook d46 so I'm going to try and do the rearend swap I've gotten enough info as to what will work I'm sorta stuck on a few things so for example as I understand the year and model and such like ranger explorer etc. But I need help as to what the meanings of the numbers and abbreviations in the picture circled in red example explorer  8.8 i do know what the length means of course but where do get that number for my car as well as the WMS-WMS what is it and how can i find that in my picture of my manual as well included do I find them in my rear axle page please bare with me as I said I am new to this and am not trying to spend to much more money than I have to again thank you all for your help 

[Young Ed]

Wms is wheel mounting surface. As brake width can vary you want to measure where the wheels actually attach to get a proper comparison. It's just harder to measure because you need to pull wheels and use straight edges to get a #

 

[Crisjr14]

Young Ed thank you for replying so I want to get this right so in this pic for example the WMS will be the total length where I have marked correct? And as for the explorer 8.8 part what am i looking for please 

[Young Ed]

8.8 is the model # or style of the diff. I believe it comes from the measurement of the ring gear inside it.

[Crisjr14]

Great thanks and so the WMS is correct in the picture I added correct?

[Plymouthy Adams]

there are a number of good article with pictures and drawings on the internet that are easy to find, full of information and would bring you up to speed on your proposed task real quick.  they are a good investment of time if you are new at all this and can save you money and time and prevent possible errors..number of items go into swapping out a rear axle...none of it is hard....many may require a bit of investment in other areas to make them work once installed....driveshaft is one of the added larger expenses some times.  

[Crisjr14]

Thank you Plymouthy Adam's for your response yes I was told the driveshaft might cause some problems but if I find one like this on my rearend in picture that matches up off the ranger,explorer etc. Rearends I should be ok correct 

[Plymouthy Adams]

It appears that axle is removed from the car...did you measure and record the pinion angle at curb weight...who is to cut, transfer and weld the perches or if you buy new ones same process just less the cut.  The angle can still be accomplished out of the vehicle based on your perch position....suggest you do record than data now.  Whatever axle you choose will need to mimic these specs.

[Sniper]

Best way to set the pinion angle is with the axle installed in the car, the vehicle on it's wheels and at normal running weight.  A four post type lift is optimal here, but you can get by with 4 jackstands under the suspension as long as they lift the car so that the relative heights at all four corners are the same.

 

Short of that you can use the trunnion mounting face on the original axle as the reference.  Measure the angle with a digital protractor, set it for zero on some jackstands.  Then with that surface at zero measure the angles of the original perches.  You can then do the same with the replacement axle and mimic the angles.

 

I would prefer the first option as these cars have a wheel hop issue that can be helped by optimizing the pinion angle for the vehicle. 

[48ply1stcar]

I don't know if the width of your axle is the same as a 48 P15. I used a 2000 Cherokee 3:55 rear axle.  If I was 15 years younger I might have tackled this swap on my own.  Here is a link to a thread that I started about 5 years ago.

https://p15-d24.com/topic/37940-sucessful-rear-axle-swaps/#comments

 

Edited March 10, 2021 by 48ply1stcar

[Crisjr14]

Ok gentlemen let me do it this way so it can probably be more understood as to what I got myself into here and what you can tell me would be my best option please so the pictures included are of my rearend I could not get one side of the drum off as you can see please no rude comments I k bj ow I messed up in the picture and this is what it has come down to trying to grind that hub off and not mess up that spindle to save rearend but I cat find no drums for it they are the 11" x 2" so I was told that my other option would be a bad cheaper maybe to do a rearend swap is the reason for the inquires that I am posting 

[Crisjr14]

48ply I am trying to still understand the 3.55 rearend situation and where to find out in my manual what I have in my car please

[Plymouthy Adams]

not familiar with the dodge books, often they show less than the Plymouth books....Plymouth factory manual has said data printed just prior to first page on rear axle.   Odds are you are running a 3.9 and you should be able to verify this by cleaning the very top center of the hoghead where it butts up to the banjo...you may see 3.9 or two numbers....one will be pinion count, other the ring count....divide the smaller into the larger and get the ratio...depending on your terrain and manner of driving...one would best study his driving needs/habits before buying a gear that may well leave you with that FLAT feeling when driving...

[Crisjr14]

Plymouthy Adam's I will start to look only one question what and where is the top center of the hogshead where it butts up to the banjo I have no idea what or where that is sorry 

[Plymouthy Adams]

hog head may have tripped you up.....look to the carrier same location for said numbers.....just for giggles...go to the pictures you posted above where the drum is leaning on the rear backing plate showing the full length of the axle...study that a minute...does anything in that picture resemble a hog's head?  lots of luck on your project...have fun, remember, having fun is what this hobby is all about....

Edited March 6, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[Sniper]

The hogshead, it has many names, is the part the rear of the drive shaft bolts to.  The hogshead is then bolted to the axle housing.  So it basically resides between the driveshaft and the axle housing.

 

If you were to pull it out you would see that is where the gears are.

 

As for your brakes, moparmall shows them as available.  https://www.moparmall.com/1118850-1118851-Dodge-Brake-Drum-Hub-Assy-p/sk-65009.htm

 

Not cheap.

[wayfarer]

Your wms measurement for 1953 is right at 60"

Explorer wms, 1992-2009, is right at 59 1/2"

Go to pick-n-pull, buy axle, strip off excess brackets.

Go to trailer supply and buy 2 new spring perches and weld on (yes, some work is required)

 

[Dartgame]

Or get an 8 1/4 axle from a small (not grand) 1990-200x cherokee virtually all of them have 3.55:1 ratio.

[DJ194950]

1 hour ago, Dartgame said:

Or get an 8 1/4 axle from a small (not grand) 1990-200x cherokee virtually all of them have 3.55:1 ratio.

 

1 hour ago, Dartgame said:

all of them have 3.55:1 ratio.

Depends on where you live.

 

Not all parts of this country are the same, I do know the OP's  place of residence is so? Maybe the same, not so sure in Ca. where I live. Surprised that  even a local Pick and Pull place locally had some but the ratio?

 

DJ

[wagoneer]

Here is a fun bit - the Garage Squad in S7E5 install in a  Studebaker truck an explorer rear end. 

 

 

[Crisjr14]

Morning all just a quick question to see if someone can help me identify if this rear end I am going to look at this morning will hopefully fit the circled are the tags in truck the rest is from rangerstation.com can someone please let me know if it will work on my '53 

[wagoneer]

https://www.nationaldifferential.com/products/1998-2002-ford-explorer-rear-differential-8-8-inch.html

 

I'm sorry @Crisjr14 but I can't answer your question directly on fit, but in reading your note there was a (surprisingly) relevant ad for a company that sells whole remanufactured differentials ready-to-go.

 

It seems you may *already* have the new differential, but if you don't, then you can buy a remanufactured version ready to drop in place for a *modest* cost relatively speaking to the raw cost plus your own time and labor, and reliability risks.

 

Seems you can get Explorer or XJ, or any other make it seems. take your pick.

 

 

[Sniper]

Ok, say we go with the $1400 Explorer axle (gotta eat the core charge) what else is needed to hook it up?  How does the driveshaft attach?  How about the leaf springs?

[Dartgame]

Thing I did not like about the 8.8 axles is the axle tube is 3.25 " which is kind of an odd size to work with. The 8 1/4 is 3 inch which is very common and easy to find spring perches.

 

DJ - I stated virtually  all cherokee axles were 3.55:1. That means there are exceptions, and you are right they could be regional or trim based etc.

[DJ194950]

1 hour ago, Dartgame said:

Thing I did not like about the 8.8 axles is the axle tube is 3.25 " which is kind of an odd size to work with. The 8 1/4 is 3 inch which is very common and easy to find spring perches.

 

DJ - I stated virtually  all cherokee axles were 3.55:1. That means there are exceptions, and you are right they could be regional or trim based etc.

I was not really questioning your statement as I was sort of asking other members who have looked for such a rear-end in the Calif. central valley (3-400 mile area) to chime in if they have looked and what they found in the local yards, ratios/limited slip/prices /etc.?  We Almost never see snow but have a lot of off-roaders/ skiers/ that may have purchased these vehicles in the past and may be in local junk yards. If anyone has looked, please respond. I hope to replace soon (hopefully) the current rear end in the 50 Suburban I have with something similar. The current rear end ( 7.5 GM) -while correct width etc. is a open rear gear set and  worn out and Way to high geared!! Drum braked which is OK.   but? Disc is better.?? Not worth the price to setup the way I would like!  A GM small everything!

 

DJ

Edited March 10, 2021 by DJ194950
Add info