Crisjr14

Copy that Sniper and thanks so when you say good luck keeping it 12v positive ground how do i switch the other way because as of right now I was not getting spark when I got her ready to fire up again so I checked the wiring did a few switching in wires back to + - and she fires up now and same with electric fuel pump wasn't sucking gas to carbs it was blowing out until I read up on it and had to switch the wires as well on it and now it works fine just trying to get help on as to what I need to do if I should try and put back to negative ground when I do my 6 to 12 volt conversion I again thank you for any help you or information tips etc. you can offer also as for those reducers my gauges are not set up that way they are the male to female pin plug in if that makes any sense

Ok another question I finally got my 53 up and running well at least fired up my question is if I was to do the conversion the car is on a positive ground set up now when I do the switch over am I going to leave it positive ground and will I still be able to run accessories like radio speakers and such also this is what I am thinking of buying for my conversion I already have the harness and alternator going to try and use the starter as I've seen that I possibly can buy anything else that I might need or not need please feel free to let me know Id appreciate any and all responses

Thanks Rich so I did switch it back to positive ground and also switched the wires on the FP I alligatored it the ign switch real quick to see if she would start and also getting gas which she is now and FP is working fine but as you stated about the wire feeding the FP how or where would wire it to be setup correctly please and thank you all again for your help greatly appreciated

Ok thank you all but I did some re wiring under dash and found TDC rotor was more at the 6 o'clock position re ran my wires and I finally got her to crank over and yes supposedly it did or does have the kick down switch on I took it out the button never did nothing when I got the car but I appreciate all your knowledge in your responses but now I have one more little problem maybe you all can help me out with so I did wire it back to positive ground and now for some reason my Carter electric fuel pump is blowing out instead of sucking to carburetors it worked before but I had it the other way so my question is do I have to reverse the wires on the fuel pump I've been doing some internet searching and looks like I do have to reverse the wires just would like more input please and again thank you all

Thank you tired iron so if the horn relay is not properly wired correct it could possibly be why I am not getting spark? And I've tried to look up images to see what they look like and I can't find anything and that is why I was asking if anyone might have some to get an idea of what to look for or buy also trying to figure out what this box above my coil is for It had wires coming from it ( green arrow) to this push button switch on mounted to the dashboard the box says (autolite 4001 a) what is it's purpose please and thank you again

So have a question what are these that are circled and if anyone has pictures as to what they actually look like please and could it possibly be reason for no spark for my 1953 dodge Meadowbrook please thank for any information

Ok trying to see if anyone in here can help me out with some picture diagrams or links to find out the correct way the gear shift linkage arms brake and clutch pedal arms are supposed to be hooked up on my 53 Meadowbrook it's the 3.8 L6 standard 3 speed and yes I have the manual but it's a reprint and can't make out to good and help would be greatly appreciated thank you

Thank you Sam going to get plug for it today maybe that's one of the reasons I could never get these dual carbs in sync and run correctly lol again thank you

Wanted to see if anyone can help me on these dual carter single barrel carbs so on the back one I have my vacum advance line as pointed out in picture attached but I just noticed the front one does not have anything coming out from that port question is do I buy a plug and block it off I did notice there is a hole in there so don't know if that will make it not run right with air escaping from there or is there a way to run a split vacum line or should I run just only one vacum from one carb and just plug up the other one thanks for any help

OK going to see if anyone would be able to help me I am also stuck with the same situation on my 53 meadowbrook rear drums could anyone tell me if these bigger drums will work for me I have included some pictures with measurements as well thanks

Jersey harald thank you for info really appreciate it

OK gents this is a 2 part question looking for some help wulith please first can anyone point me in the direction or some help as to where I might be able to buy this gas pedal assembly please any help would appreciated. Second I wanted to ask about the "Body" i.e. A Body/B Body/C Body and so on term and if anyone could tell me what my '53 would fall under if there is one please and thanks any help

Thanks plymouthy so cork or rubber?

Thank you curt Lee

OK Gents need help on name of these covers that go on the of the flat L6 motor need new gaskets but don't know the name I know it's of the subject but thought I'd give it a shot with all this wisdom in here

Well if you happen to come across something please keep me in mind thanks

Plymouthy by chance would you know where I could buy these parts circled the leaf spring brackets and these little look like plugs that go in these holes as well as the center bolt where the ubolt plate rides in please since I'm re doing the bushings might as well get pretty much new parts all the way ha ha and again thank you for all your help

Again thanks plymouthy I finally found a set I'm hoping that will work they are the same dimensions as mine and as for taking the old ones out I think I did a pretty good job

OK thank you plymouthy I can't remember if I read in one of these posts someone said they should have pressed them on or something like that as long as that's the way they are supposed to go I'm good

OK question can someone tell me if these bushings are supposed to be pressed inside or do the stay like this in the picture please thanks

Thank you both but I think I'll take my chances and just clean them real good and repack with grease and hope for the best lol don't want to cause more issues than I've gotten myself into already

OK gentlemen want to ask for some more advice please so I on the verge of getting these brakes all back together I bought new seals for the plates on the rear ends brakes but read that might as well check and change out the bearings as well so question is this bearing circled how does it come out is hard or fairly easy there is alot of play in the bearing so was thinking of putting news ones in since I'm at this point or can I get away with it by just repacking with bearing grease also this shim that came out looks like someone might have made it and it shows where it's been rubbing on something as well as with the blue heat marks so does anyone one know what the exact size in thickness it needs or they need to be I have extras from a rearend I bought same year make and model also circled in red in pictures please any help would be greatly appreciated thank you also I apologize upfront for my not so correct punctuation in my posts i.e. !,?,. Etc. Lol

Hello I am back with another question for some help so on my rear drums of the 53 one side has arrows that look like they are engraved the other side don't have any so I am asking are the anchor bolts from the front are designed like the rear ones as far as the arrow and lobe position like picture added for reference and are arrows supposed to face each other when staring from scratch putting everything back together and doing the adjustments please and thank you

OK so I'm sorta confused on this what I have been told and shown i believe is to bring the cams all the way in first then take them out until the start to rub drum and do the anchors to set the heels. Then told to do it this way so there actually is no adjuster for the Toes is that correct but trust me I appreciate all of you for the valuable information it's just that can't figure which method to use also how can I find out if my pads are doing this with the drum on please

Thank you Sam now that makes more sense as for the feeler Guage so i do the .006 check after I do the heel is that what your saying and do I still follow these instructions in picture doing the toe adjustment to