Way off topic 1993 caravan transmission

[Tooljunkie]

That’s a tough decision. 
as i have a large property and lots of buildings, storage isnt a problem. I used it to lilft engines, front of lawn tractors, truck cabs and boxes. I raised the rear of a truck to roll a rear diff out after cutting it loose. 
i use it to help with removing the hood too. Its not just a single use tool. 
for that reason i prefer the higher capacity hoist. 

[kencombs]

The Tractor Supply stuff locally is virtually identical to HF.   Both will work for your need IMO.   I have a folding improv that is about 20 years old.  Bought it in a wholesale house when I was in business and had access to thin gas like that.  $89!  Still works fine.  No leaks and the only thing I can fault is the casters as they could be better.  Not bad enough to justify the cost of replacement.  

[Los_Control]

Little update on the project.

I was going to pull the trigger & buy a new crane 1rst week of November.

Then out of nowhere a used 2 ton crane came available for $200 ... what I wanted to spend. So I grabbed it.

I was really surprised how small of a footprint it has when folded up. I have a perfect spot for it in the shop & will use it more then I suspected. .... Just use to old school cranes from Grandfather, Uncle that just took up way too much room.

 

 

I now know why it came apart. RTFM! I bought a manual from rockauto ... it was in Spanish & I could not read it.

So I installed the crank sensor without a manual.

You install a crank sensor pressing against the flywheel. The felt washer will get removed when you turn the engine over, leaving a gap aprox 16 thousands.

 

I pushed crank sensor tight, then pulled it out just a smidge & locked it down. Here is the result.

 

I pulled out the new sensor and the felt is still on it ... it was too far away & engine could not keep time.

I'm fine with this as long as I learn something from the process. I am suppose to be a carpenter not a mechanic 

 

Funny story time.

She was driving speed limit 75mph. She called me on the phone, there was a bang, a cloud of smoke and now the van is sitting on the ground ... I do not know what to do!

She seriously was traumatized blowing up her first engine. She was dazed when she called me to come get her.

When the motor blew, covered the back of the van with oil, motor died & she pulled over to side of road as far as she could, & shoulders are banked ... she was sitting lower then the road.

 

She already hinting she might want a truck like mine, but a automatic transmission instead of a manual.

She may never trust this van again.

 

[oldodge41]

May take a bit more than JB Weld before you can buff that out!??

[Racer-X-]

Wow.  I've never seen a rod failure like that on a 3.3 (or 3.8) Mopar V6.  Usually it takes some serious lack of lubrication to get that kind of result.

 

If you put it back together with a "new" (to you) engine, and you need a scan tool for that vehicle, I just picked up an extra genuine DRB-II that I'd let go of pretty cheap.   If you need it, DM me.

[Los_Control]

Just now, Racer-X- said:

Wow.  I've never seen a rod failure like that on a 3.3 (or 3.8) Mopar V6.  Usually it takes some serious lack of lubrication to get that kind of result.

Yeah not a oil issue. I call it a opportunity for improvement, to learn to install a crank sensor properly

1 minute ago, Racer-X- said:

If you put it back together with a "new" (to you) engine, and you need a scan tool for that vehicle, I just picked up an extra genuine DRB-II that I'd let go of pretty cheap.   If you need it, DM me.

I already have a used engine for it that I picked up pretty cheap, $200.  It is a gamble, the wrecking yard owner said it must be good or he never would have saved it. Been sitting in the shed for 8-10 years he claims.

I will give it a shot. It seems to be lower miles on it then the one I pulled out.

 

I really have no plans to replace the vehicle at this time. It is a 1993 and really is newer then what I want for a daily driver.

Yet it is old enough that the average guy can still work on it. The 3.3 is a solid motor, the A604 is a good transmission.

The trans has been rebuilt with maybe 25k miles on it, new axles at that time, brakes are 2 years old. The last 6 months I have replaced the fuel pump, struts, shocks, tires. They had paint issues these years & this one has been repainted.

Simply a beater with a heater & cheaper to keep'er

 

The drb II looks interesting and will dm you on it ... counting the flashes of the dash kinda sucks.

I have been thinking about buying something that will read OBDI

 

[Tooljunkie]

The drb is an awesome tool for these older mopars. As mentioned 3.3 is typically a solid engine. The 3.3 in my 97 intrepid outlasted the car. Transmission  was solid too. 

[Los_Control]

Have to admit getting the motor/trans out kicked my butt ... I needed a week to recover.

Then needed to deal with the leafs & garden, A gate needed to be built then the wash machine went out.

Think I got all the fires under control and ready to get back to work on this.

 

I did a quick pressure wash, now I need to crawl into it and use some simple green and clean it a little better.

 

 

 

Just a 28 year old dirty car. Needs cleaned.

The under chassis is the same, just dirty. There is no rust anywhere.

 

My thoughts on the drb scan tool.

A:) It really looks cool and does everything you would need for a OBD1 dodge.

 

B:) It is a 28 year old electronic scan tool. There is no new replacement cables, adapters, basically it is a nice tool at the end of it's life cycle.

 

C:) I think it is cool, if I found one at a estate sale or something and bought it for a few $$, Fine.

If someone wants to sell one for a few hundred $$. I really would rather use the money & buy a new scan tool that would work on chebby, ford, dodge & others. Something modern & more useful.

 

I only add this for @Racer-X- ... I have the social skills of a Billy Goat. I really do not know a lot about the tool.

From what I do know, I would take the money out of my toy budget, not the tool budget. One is larger then the other.

I simply put @Racer-X- friendship at a higher value then the drb scan tool.

[Tooljunkie]

I did that, mid august in my steel quonset. Pulled two transmissions and installed one. I bought a mac taskmaster for a few hundred, old mopar ford and chevy connectors included. Was very handy. Havent dragged it out in a while. Still have a couple oldies that need it though. 

Edited December 22, 2021 by Tooljunkie

[Los_Control]

Been back working on this project again.

Not proud of this repair.  While removing the engine from vehicle, they hit the pan with the fork lift.

Right at the drain plug was a very small tear in the metal causing oil to drip out.

I just cleaned it really well and prepped the bare metal and slapped some putty on it.

 

The used engine is a 1991 going to replace a 1993. I need to replace the exhaust manifold & plenum because of different emissions. Then the fuel rail and injector wire harness because of different electrical plug connectors.

Exhaust bolts were very easy to work with.

I was surprised when I pulled the plenum to find a broken intake bolt. I believe the bolt was broken at the factory when engine was assembled? Was easy enough to extract.

 

So far still in the cleaning stage before putting it back together. It was really dirty from sitting for many years.

Decided to just run it as is, not pulling the pan or the valve covers ...

 

Now I need to work on the fuel rail. Need to replace the rubber lines going to it.

Best I can figure is to use high pressure fuel injector line with high pressure clamps.

 

 

Any better ideas to replace these factory made fittings?

[Tooljunkie]

3 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Been back working on this project again.

Not proud of this repair.  While removing the engine from vehicle, they hit the pan with the fork lift.

Right at the drain plug was a very small tear in the metal causing oil to drip out.

I just cleaned it really well and prepped the bare metal and slapped some putty on it.

 

The used engine is a 1991 going to replace a 1993. I need to replace the exhaust manifold & plenum because of different emissions. Then the fuel rail and injector wire harness because of different electrical plug connectors.

Exhaust bolts were very easy to work with.

I was surprised when I pulled the plenum to find a broken intake bolt. I believe the bolt was broken at the factory when engine was assembled? Was easy enough to extract.

 

So far still in the cleaning stage before putting it back together. It was really dirty from sitting for many years.

Decided to just run it as is, not pulling the pan or the valve covers ...

 

Now I need to work on the fuel rail. Need to replace the rubber lines going to it.

Best I can figure is to use high pressure fuel injector line with high pressure clamps.

 

 

Any better ideas to replace these factory made fittings?

No, i think you are taking the right approach on the fuel lines. The hose for fuel injection is a little more money, but running regular fuel line beyond its limit is a risk. So a good choice. 

[Los_Control]

Thanks @Tooljunkie The rubber lines need to be replaced because all dry rot & cracks in them ... I cant put the engine together as is.

Same time I can not find replacement lines for a 1993 car ...  So making my own seems to be the only way.

[DJ194950]

Do not even consider regular fuel line for use on a FI system!!!

 

I had to repair several pieces of personnel  lift equipment that the line switch was made -because that was the shop had.

Also regular hose clamps.

Buy the FI clamps! required to squeeze tight  enough for the pressure.  30- 50+ PSI VS 5?.

 

Caught fire and ended up in major time and repairs. Big $$.

 

DJ

[Los_Control]

Thanks @DJ194950 I am trying to find the proper tool & the proper fittings.

Seems the high pressure fuel line & high pressure clamps is all that is available.

 

I have regular clamps & fuel lines for the automatic transmission cooler. To the factory radiator.

The regular clamps last about one year before they loosen up & need to be tightened.

 

Sucks on a transmission line ...  Leaks fluid out and makes a mess and trans starts slipping.

would really suck on a fuel line. to start leaking on a hot motor.

 

Just saying the new high pressure lines & clamps seems like a git me by ... But I have no other options to replace them.

[Tooljunkie]

The high pressure line and clamps is the only solution. The clamps themselves were used from factory on the fuel filters, and some had them in the engine bay as well. I wont think twice about using them. I keep them on hand, i even use the clamps on power steering return lines. 

[Sniper]

Napa can, generally speaking, take the ends off an old hose and put new hose on them.  Not sure if that includes fuel lines though.  Just a thought to consider.

[Tooljunkie]

On 1/8/2022 at 9:13 AM, Sniper said:

Napa can, generally speaking, take the ends off an old hose and put new hose on them.  Not sure if that includes fuel lines though.  Just a thought to consider.

Not something i would think to be practical, as the one side of the hard line  runs to the fuel filter. 

[JBNeal]

industrial hose supply shops, if they are not too busy, can be persuaded to cut off old ferrules and crimp on new ferrules over new hoses for a modest fee...I've done this several times for similar instances where special ends were being used on hose assemblies...but I had to catch the guys at the right time of the week when they were not super grumpy

[Los_Control]

I trust everyone's opinion here ... I have been told by a couple local Auto parts store that advertise they make & repair hydraulic lines. Automotive lines I get the "Thats not what we do" They are setup for heavy equipment, tractors and such.

 I bet the guys do their own personal lines, just not for public sale 

 

I really like @Tooljunkie Thoughts on the high pressure lines & clamps.

I never even knew they existed until last week so never used them before.

So I ordered enough ... 6' that will do the fuel rail & replace the rubber fuel line and worm drive clamps on the transmission lines.

 

Transmission lines are only10" long.  5/16" steel line even with a loop in it is very rigid.

Every engine tends to rock a little when you give it gas from the torque. Lifting up on the left side.

So I feel rigid lines would put stress on the radiator and the line itself, wherever it chose to flex.

Just a good spot to use flexible lines imho.

 

So now I am hoping I learned a new trick and will try it and watch fuel & trans lines closely to see how they perform.

 

[Los_Control]

I got a little more time to work on it. Think I mentioned there was a broken intake bolt so needed to remove intake to extract it.

Decided to pull the valve covers & take a peek. I was really happy with how clean the engine was inside.

I cleaned the gasket surfaces, but touched nothing else.

 

Hoping the fuel injectors do not haunt me in the future. The original engine the O-rings were hard & needed replaced.

So I ordered them. According to the photo the order came with O-rings for all 6 injectors. What I received was enough for 1 injector.

The lower mile wrecking yard engine the O-rings were soft & seemed to me usable.

So I cleaned it all up, painted the rail, greased the O-rings with Vaseline & slapped it back together.

 

I have the motor back in and motor mounts, exhaust, Axles connected.

I hogged out the adjustment slot on the struts so can get proper camber adjustment.

Just all the accessories left to connect now.

 

 

Still probably be a couple weeks before can drive it. But am making progress on it.

 

Now I am questioning my choice on ATF fluid. Not sure what to do here.

The Chrysler products call for ATF+4, All I have ever used in it.

Trying to save a couple $$, I bought a gallon of this from walmart.

 

 

I dunno much about trans fluid ... only reviews I can find is personal opinions and universal fluid is not a good idea.

May be the current supply chain issue and why this is all I could find ... I may have to look harder.

[Sniper]

MS7176E was the specification for the trans you have.  If the trans fluid you have says it meets that you should be good.

 

I went to Castrol's site and found the spec sheet, it's says it meets MS7176E.  Here's the link to the pdf

 

https://www.castrol.com/content/dam/castrol/country-sites/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/transmaxuniversalappsheet.pdf

[Los_Control]

17 hours ago, Sniper said:

MS7176E was the specification for the trans you have.  If the trans fluid you have says it meets that you should be good.

I see no reference to MS7176E

Reading the label on the back it replaces ATF+4 And just about every other ATF on the planet.

According to Castrol, will replace all the others and free up inventory space and solve ordering issues for shop owners.

Sounds like a shop owners dream and almost too good to be true.

 

Seems like a fairly new product. Guessing years old and not decades old. It might be good?

Kinda feel like a guinea pig 

 

Same time I use castrol oil 5-30 in my daily drivers and 10-30 in the pilothouse.

I may as well try the Transmission fluid also.

 

[Sniper]

6 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I see no reference to MS7176E

It's on the PDF file I linked, which is why I linked it as there are a ton of specifications it claims to meet, 7176E being one of them.

[Tooljunkie]

I use universal /synthetic atf. One bottle on shelf. Same goes for my antifreeze. Universal long life. Less to stock. Unkess its under warranty, then oem stuff and owner keeps the leftovers. 

[Los_Control]

Well I have to say, that sure was a good learning exercise. 

I was careful to read the manual when installing the crank sensor this time. ???

 This motor really runs sweet. Have a few issues to work out, air in the cooling system hood needs adjusting just minor stuff.

 

Was quite a journey though, when I first started this thread I really knew nothing about the van ... it had a loose wire harness that caused shifting problems. Since then I have worked on just about every piece of the vehicle.

Today it is a 30 year old rust free car, 100k on the motor, 35k on the transmission, axles, brakes. The tires, struts, shocks, fuel pump is new.

I think I now have a official beater with a heater that should last for several years with normal maintenance 

 

Sure thank all of those that have helped me through this process.