billrigsby Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) I have four of the side hood emblems one still has all three studs Two are missing, of course the end studs One is missing, yes both end studs Does anyone have experience or suggestions on repair? There may be enough metal to drill and tap a significantly smaller thread and insert a stud with Loctite, but being pot metal not sure how well that would work. I don't see JB Weld working? Edited January 16, 2021 by billrigsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcotant Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 I tried JB Weld on two machine screws that i ground flat to increase surface area. They were end studs, didn't last long. Was thinking maybe longer studs with something springy behind nut so flexing of the hood did not put so much pressure on them. Will be interested to hear what other members did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 I have one that was drilled and tapped for a small screw maybe 4-40 size. It's intact but I've never had it on a truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 unfortunately there is so little material to work with for drilling and tapping and ensure you get a good threaded hole for a stud. I have seen many different repair actions here from a sheet metal screw, clean bore and a machine screw, clear bore, tap, stainless fastener inserted and flush with finished chrome plate, two side tape, and list goes on. Bottom drilled, pin with slit in bottom with taper insert, epoxy and a light tap to set/swage the taper into the pin...(jewelers saw needed here)....this should work if you remember not to gorilla grip the wrench. It is an exercise in patience that often may still not prove a worth piece but a get by till you can locate a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT81PlymouthPickup Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Being a machinist and having access to a milling machine, I would carefully drill and tap the holes. Being the parts are thin, you'll want to drill as deep as possible without breaking through, leaving only about 1/32 (.031"). Be very careful tapping. If you apply too much pressure when the tap bottoms it could deform or break through to the outside surface. With a thin part like this, you'll want to use a bottom tap which will allow the screw threads to engage deeper. I would then install allen head stainless steel set screws. You can purchase them in various lengths. On final assembly clean and put a few drops of Loctite threadlocker. Be careful to not over-tighten the set screws or the nuts when you install. Should be better than new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: It is an exercise in patience that often may still not prove a worth piece but a get by till you can locate a replacement. They are out there, $35 used/rough, $60-100 NOS and $70 Repo I'll see what I can do first ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT81PlymouthPickup Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Also, I'm not sure what the original die cast screw thread was? Some of these things used speed nuts over a die cast stud. If you go the drill and tap method you may want to select a bit smaller diameter screw thread. Likely a 6-32 or a 4-40 ? You need to measure the dia. of the original studs to get an idea of which thread to go with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 you will also need the bottoming tap....you will need a bottoming bit...milling bit will work if at hand...with these readily available and you going for a class A look....pulled the trigger on a new item....but there is always that tug toward repairing what you have, fully understand this...more a challenge than a necessity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 On a good painted surface i would be tempted to use a quality double sided tape. But the entire back surface leaving the one stud intact as a locator. Meticulous work with an x-acto knife to trim away excess tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Ask yourself why them studs broke in the 1st place...my time is better spent finding a good automotive quality low profile double-sided tape to supplement the studs on new replacements as the added bonding surface reduces shear stress and vibration on them pot metal studs 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 1 hour ago, JBNeal said: Ask yourself why them studs broke in the 1st place...my time is better spent finding a good automotive quality low profile double-sided tape to supplement the studs on new replacements as the added bonding surface reduces shear stress and vibration on them pot metal studs It's not cheap,, but the emblem mounting tape from a body shop supply is a very good alternative to any other repair. No chance of damaging the emblem and easily reversible if desired. Nearly every late mode car/truck uses that stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Went digging around in the shop, may have found an answer. I have a bunch of swage screws (4-40) and nuts (4-40 and 6-32). I will try the screw, after installed, with a washer on both sides all the pulling stress of tightening the nut will be on the screw itself and none on the emblem. There is a raised spot on the back of the emblem, I will take it down enough to compensate for the thickness of the washer and should be good to go. Not sure what to use besides the force of the screw head in the softer emblem metal, may try one with Loctite first, I have a ‘half of an emblem’ to start with first then maybe try one with JB Weld. YES, too much time on my hands, I know the emblem tape would work, removal can be a real pain, have de-badged a few cars before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Gave it a shot with the half-an-emblem, made the stud area flat and also flattened the end of the swage screw. The swage screw measured at .21", drilled a .199" hole, filled the hole with JB Weld and pressed the screw into the hole. I had a small depression due to the depth the screw went in, added a small washer turned down to fit the hole and added JB Weld. Set it all in a vice to cure A washer on both sides of the hood panel and tightened it up, as far as 'proof of concept' seems it will will work fine, I am only replacing one on the end of each emblem. Pressing the screw in, it seemed to go too easy, will try a slightly smaller hole for the final ones. will also take down more of the emblem metal and make a larger and thinner 'cut to contour' washer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted January 17, 2021 Report Share Posted January 17, 2021 JB weld just doesn’t seem to cut it, I’ve done the same as many on here, but what I do think would work is auto body panel glue, but it’s around $60-$80 a tube and most need a special 2 plunger gun to work, but once it’s on, it’s not coming from off again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billschwindt Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Roberts Motor Parts has those new , reproductions, but good quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billschwindt Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 $47.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted January 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 On 1/17/2021 at 2:46 PM, NiftyFifty said: JB weld just doesn’t seem to cut it, I’ve done the same as many on here, but what I do think would work is auto body panel glue, but it’s around $60-$80 a tube and most need a special 2 plunger gun to work, but once it’s on, it’s not coming from off again The major holding effect is done with the swaging of the stud into the emblem's softer metal, JB Weld is just added insurance, seems to be pretty strong, after all it is only a hood emblem and only one of the three mounting points. Time will tell. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 7 hours ago, billrigsby said: The major holding effect is done with the swaging of the stud into the emblem's softer metal, JB Weld is just added insurance, seems to be pretty strong, after all it is only a hood emblem and only one of the three mounting points. Time will tell. ? its the vibration over time that will tell, but my post is based more on the guys just trying to stick new studs on, which I tried and failed with JB and epoxies 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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