Mertz Posted December 16, 2020 Report Posted December 16, 2020 I have everything loose to remove the drivers side front backing plate except the long bolt which will not budge. I have been applying liquid wrench for a few days. The hammer did not work. I tried a big c clamp without success. The only heat I can apply is from a butane torch. Is there something binding it or is it just plane stuck? Any help would be greatly appreciated Quote
dcotant Posted December 16, 2020 Report Posted December 16, 2020 So by "long bolt" do you mean the brake anchor bolt ( goes through holes in bottom of spindle ). That should have flattened sides on the brake side of things that you can put a wrench on it and possibly turn it. If not that one then perhaps a picture indicating the problem bolt. If it is that one, there is nothing holding it but rust and the wisdom of years. Quote
dcotant Posted December 16, 2020 Report Posted December 16, 2020 The bolts I was talking about are 5-19-4 in this picture. And what i call spindle is the Knuckle ASSY in this picture. Quote
TodFitch Posted December 16, 2020 Report Posted December 16, 2020 5-19-4 are the major adjustment eccentrics/brake shoe pivot bolts which also happen to be the bottom bolts securing the backing plate. I assume you have removed the nuts off the back of those. You can’t put a wrench on the flats to rotate them around to break them free? Quote
Mertz Posted December 16, 2020 Author Report Posted December 16, 2020 That is the correct bolt. I tried putting a wrench on the flats but there is not enough grip. I have bent 2 8” C clamps trying to press it out. I might try putting a nut and lock nut back on and see if I can get it to turn. It is sitting right now with the clamp pressure on it with a bunch of liquid wrench. Maybe it will pop off over night. I thought about trying to soaking it in citric acid but can’t get a tray under it. I’ll try spraying it but I will have to sit there and keep it wet. Quote
dcotant Posted December 17, 2020 Report Posted December 17, 2020 You are pressing from the back (nut end of bolt) right? Quote
Mertz Posted December 17, 2020 Author Report Posted December 17, 2020 Yes. I have a large socket over the brake end pushing on the backing plate and the other end on a nut turned on the bolt. I have the brake shoe off so I could go the other way. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 17, 2020 Report Posted December 17, 2020 Big oxy/acetylene torch and a big brass hammer on the backside loose nut. Been there done a couple like that. It's just some rust/hard sludge. 1 Quote
Mertz Posted December 18, 2020 Author Report Posted December 18, 2020 The double nut idea did not work. They both turned. I now have reverted to science. I have a bucket of citric acid solution suspended under the backing plate. I can’t get one up far enough to submerge the area to I’m using a towel and capillary action to soak the bolt and surrounding area. This might take a few days but hopefully the acid will penetrate far enough to loosen the bolt. Freeze thaw might also help. Quote
squirebill Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 Were you able to get the nut off the end of the bolt? I spent three days on the same bolt on my '49 B1B. I couldn't get the nut off. Tried everything I could think of including various penetrating oils, heat with MAPP gas, then spraying penetrating on it while still hot. Finally used a 24" pipe wrench on the nut. Wrenched the nut and twisted and broke the bolt. More penetrating oil and heat then hammer and punch then c clamp, etc. Finally came out. Stick with it. It will eventually come out even if it is in pieces. Problem is finding a replacement. For a temporary fix I cobbled a replacement bolt together. Working well. Still in there until I find a replacement. I don't drive the truck often. Last time was the 2019 4th of July parade. Quote
Mertz Posted December 22, 2020 Author Report Posted December 22, 2020 Haven’t tried it lately. I probably have to soak it until after Christmas. I don’t want to damage the bolt. The nut is off. Quote
Tooljunkie Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 For rusted parts i use water. And an air hammer. Rattling on the casting to knock tge rust loose. But its only effective if no oil has been sprayed on it. i would prop up my propane torch and let it heat while i drink a cup of coffee.then hit it with cold water. Rinse and repeat. The rapid cooling, will break down the rust, as well as draw in water, then extra heat will turn water into steam, also breaking up the rust. Quote
squirebill Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 Using water is a clever idea. Have some experience with thermal shock blowing friction material off wet aircraft brakes. Will try if a situation arises. FYI: a seller on Ebay has the long brake anchor brake in new condition for $55.00 each including shipping. Think that is why I cobbled up a replacement bolt myself. Regards. Quote
Mertz Posted December 22, 2020 Author Report Posted December 22, 2020 On one of my favorite YouTube sites they tested different penetrating oils including water and water did not migrate into the nut like liquid wrench did. Unfortunately it is warming up here in Spokane so the freeze thaw thermal shock is not working. I will try the propane torch to create steam once I know my acid has had time to penetrate the bolt. Quote
billrigsby Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 When I restored my gray Market Kubota for a lot of the really rusted stuff I used a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF), I had never heard of this mixture until I was on the OTT, orange tractor talk forum, might be worth a go? Quote
Mertz Posted December 22, 2020 Author Report Posted December 22, 2020 On the YouTube site acetone and ATF did very well but was still behind liquid wrench. I think it might have been second. Acetone is pretty harsh and the combination is not as easy to apply as a spray can. You can’t put it in a spray bottle without destroying the bottle. It will also evaporate fairly quickly so the working time is limited. Quote
billrigsby Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 12 minutes ago, Mertz said: Acetone is pretty harsh and the combination is not as easy to apply as a spray can. Yes it's pretty much mix brush on, mix brush on, mix brush on, you get the picture. Quote
JBNeal Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 additional information - Marvel Mystery Oil Effectivity Quote
kencombs Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Mertz said: On the YouTube site acetone and ATF did very well but was still behind liquid wrench. I think it might have been second. Acetone is pretty harsh and the combination is not as easy to apply as a spray can. You can’t put it in a spray bottle without destroying the bottle. It will also evaporate fairly quickly so the working time is limited. Everybody should own one (or more) of these: We used them in my first job, service station, whitewall cleaner at the wash rack, bug cleaner at the service islands and penetrating oils at the service bays. Several nozzles are available for pinpoint to narrow cone to wide cone. Just fill will liquid and add air pressure. Quote
Tooljunkie Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, billrigsby said: When I restored my gray Market Kubota for a lot of the really rusted stuff I used a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF), I had never heard of this mixture until I was on the OTT, orange tractor talk forum, might be worth a go? OTT has some great info. I also have a grey market tractor. L1501. Awesome little machine. Edited December 22, 2020 by Tooljunkie Quote
Tooljunkie Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 12 hours ago, Mertz said: On one of my favorite YouTube sites they tested different penetrating oils including water and water did not migrate into the nut like liquid wrench did. Unfortunately it is warming up here in Spokane so the freeze thaw thermal shock is not working. I will try the propane torch to create steam once I know my acid has had time to penetrate the bolt. Water and vibration, percussion will work. Boss had a stuck trailer hitch. He chained to a tree, was afraid he would rip the hitch out of the frame. We used hot water and my air hammer, within a minute it was out. Quote
Mertz Posted December 22, 2020 Author Report Posted December 22, 2020 I have been hammering on the control arm to introduce vibration. I did that while I had the clamp pressure on. I have better access to brake side of the bolt so I’ll try wiggling it back and forth with a crescent wrench. I’ll definitely have to get one of those sure shots. I think we had one similar in the “service station” when I worked there in high school and college. Quote
billrigsby Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 4 hours ago, Tooljunkie said: OTT has some great info. I also have a grey market tractor. L1501. Awesome little machine. So you are the same Tooljunkie! Small world I was wondering. Quote
Tooljunkie Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 2 hours ago, billrigsby said: So you are the same Tooljunkie! Small world I was wondering. That’s me! and yes it is a small world, considering i visit 3 forums regularily. Quote
billrigsby Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 2 hours ago, Tooljunkie said: That’s me! and yes it is a small world, considering i visit 3 forums regularily. Well hello, and I know the third one is not a Hyundai Santa Fe forum LOL Quote
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