Gas tank ferule

[ptwothree]

Looking for a pic of the brass ferule between the  line and tank outlet.  I replaced the tank and can't remember what it looks like.  Is this a hardware store item?  For my '52 Ply.

[Sniper]

Pic here,

 

https://www.moparpro.com/product/plymouth-brand-new-reproduction-fuel-tank-line-brass-ferrule/

[Sam Buchanan]

25 minutes ago, ptwothree said:

Looking for a pic of the brass ferule between the  line and tank outlet.  I replaced the tank and can't remember what it looks like.  Is this a hardware store item?  For my '52 Ply.

 

If you have a replacement tank you probably don't need the hideously expensive ferrule. If your tank has national pipe taper threads all you need is a conventional fitting with no ferrule, probably 1/4" NPT. I used a brass NPT barbed fitting with my replacement tank and a length of 3/8" rubber fuel line between the fitting and fuel line (electric pump in my case).

Edited November 23, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[Dodgeb4ya]

With different makers of new replacement tanks.

Tough to be positive to give a right answer.

The above  link to the tank ferrule above generally has always been for 1940-48 full line of MoPar cars both six and eight cylinder tanks.

Most all 1949-52 MoPar cars original fuel line going into the tank had a bubble flare on the end of the fuel line. Some even had used a copper washer with the flared end.

Also a special extra  long tube nut was used to fit the line to the tank.

A picture of this 1949-52 OE fuel line bubble flare end with and with out the copper washer.

1940-48 brass tank ferrule also shown from moparnopro.

Edited November 23, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya
Add ferrule pic

[Tom Skinner]

Ptwothree,

I cannot say for sure, but I have bought all manner of brass fittings for my 1948 Chrysler Fuel Lines, and petcock valves for my block and radiator

for next to nothing at a good mom and pop hardware store.

Try one near you there before paying  $29.50 for a $2.50 Brass Fitting.

That's what makes our hobby fun - running down parts on the cheap. 

Happy Hunting!

Tom

[Dodgeb4ya]

No good mom and pop stores left in a lot of cities anymore.

Just huge boring giant box stores?

[Frank Elder]

You need a brass fitting more than likely Ace hardware has it or Grainger, or McMaster Carr.

[ptwothree]

14 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

With different makers of new replacement tanks.

Tough to be positive to give a right answer.

The above  link to the tank ferrule above generally has always been for 1940-48 full line of MoPar cars both six and eight cylinder tanks.

Most all 1949-52 MoPar cars original fuel line going into the tank had a bubble flare on the end of the fuel line. Some even had used a copper washer with the flared end.

Also a special extra  long tube nut was used to fit the line to the tank.

A picture of this 1949-52 OE fuel line bubble flare end with and with out the copper washer.

1940-48 brass tank ferrule also shown from moparnopro.

That first pic is what I have now.  the part from moparpartspro doesn't look like it would fir my '52. Are you saying they eliminated the separate ferule as in earlier models? 

[Sam Buchanan]

3 hours ago, ptwothree said:

That first pic is what I have now.  the part from moparpartspro doesn't look like it would fir my '52. Are you saying they eliminated the separate ferule as in earlier models? 

 

The replacement tank I have is not designed for the ferrule and original fitting. Try screwing a NPT fitting into the tank, if it starts easily then gradually tightens up you can use an NPT fitting. Put some teflon tape or pipe dope on the fitting, run it in until snug and you are good to go. If you use a barb fitting you can use a short length of rubber fuel hose to transition to the steel fuel line (cut off the original fitting). Put a filter between the tank and fuel line because the replacement tank probably has a simple non-filtered pickup tube.

Edited November 24, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

look at the fitting on the tank and determine the style bung and if or if not a bubble or inverted flare style....better yet, ask the supplier what fitting is needed.....

[ptwothree]

Thanks for all the ideas.  I'll check it out soon after the sun comes up.  

[Dodgeb4ya]

I doubt these new  replacement tanks are designed as the original tanks... at least where the line connects to the tank.

I don't know for sure....never needed one.

The pictures I posted show what the original 1949-52 fuel line connection ends look like.

The OP asked for a picture of the 1940-48 inner tank fuel line connection  brass ferrule. 

I just don't think it would be used at all on a 1952 Plymouth replacement tank..

The OP got his picture of the 1940-48 ferrule and a ton more of information related to fuel line connections to all 1940-52 MoPar fuel tanks.

He should be good to go!?

 

 

[Sam Buchanan]

7 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I doubt these new  replacement tanks are designed as the original tanks... at least where the line connects to the tank.

I don't know for sure....never needed one.

The pictures I posted show what the original 1949-52 fuel line connection ends look like.

The OP asked for a picture of the 1940-48 inner tank fuel line connection  brass ferrule. 

I just don't think it would be used at all on a 1952 Plymouth replacement tank..

The OP got his picture of the 1940-48 ferrule and a ton more of information related to fuel line connections to all 1940-52 MoPar fuel tanks.

He should be good to go!?

 

 

 

Another difference with my replacement tank is the pickup. The old-style filtered pickup is gone, replaced by a simple tube that ends in the bottom of the tank (I installed a filter next to the tank). The drain is located on the trailing edge of the tank bottom instead of the center of the bottom like my original tank. But these changes along with the standard NPT bung are concessions to modern design that I like since I prefer practicality over originality. 

Edited November 24, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[P15-D24]

With dimensions...

[ptwothree]

23 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

If you have a replacement tank you probably don't need the hideously expensive ferrule. If your tank has national pipe taper threads all you need is a conventional fitting with no ferrule, probably 1/4" NPT. I used a brass NPT barbed fitting with my replacement tank and a length of 3/8" rubber fuel line between the fitting and fuel line (electric pump in my case).

I finally got out and got under.  The stock line and fitting fit my replacement tank: the line tightened right up will see what happens when I put gas in it.

What makes this work is the fitting as there is a space between the end and where the threads start.  So I will have to transfer the fitting to the  new line. Without that space, the line will never get tight because the fitting thread will bottom out before things get tight.  If it leaks, then it'll be a barb and rubber hose.

[plymjim]

Why don't you air test it before gassin' up.

cover the end of your gas line, put an air hose in the filler neck

wrapped in a rag to make it hold a little air. soap your fitting 

with a little water & dish soap. Check for bubbles.

Beats the heck out of wondering what to catch that gas in

if that thing is leaking.

[ptwothree]

26 minutes ago, plymjim said:

Why don't you air test it before gassin' up.

cover the end of your gas line, put an air hose in the filler neck

wrapped in a rag to make it hold a little air. soap your fitting 

with a little water & dish soap. Check for bubbles.

Beats the heck out of wondering what to catch that gas in

if that thing is leaking.

Good suggestion..I'll try that or a variation.

[ptwothree]

Just now, ptwothree said:

Good suggestion..I'll try that or a variation.

While kinda on the subject....who can supply the square cut gasket under the sender?