PerTronix Ignition Plunge

[keithb7]

To rotate the distributor shaft to open the points, I like to turn the flan blade by hand.  In turn, spinning the crank. Cracking a few spark plug seals will make the engine easier to turn, by letting compression escape.  With a new set of points you can use a feeler gauge to set points opening time. Used points are to be filed squarely if possible, and a dwell meter used to measure dwell is best practice.  

 

In this video I talk about my dwell meter. I screw up and say that dwell is the time the points are open. That is incorrect. Dwell time is the time that the points are closed. I like setting points and setting the tune of the car myself. It is rewarding. I like to be able to tweak things myself. I like using the old tools too. As you can hear me say in the video, I am pretty proud of the state of tune of my 38 Plymouth. A pentronix to me is non-serviceable. BreakerIess solid state technology. Personally I’d prefer not to use that in my 1938 car . Toss a spare set of points and a condenser in the trunk and drive across America! 

 

 

Edited November 3, 2020 by keithb7

[Frank Gooz]

The part number I was sold and resold the second time is 2563LSP6.

I wired it per verbal instruction. I would like to get to the bottom of this for the fluid drive / gyromatic cars. 

[Stargrinder]

7 hours ago, Frank Gooz said:

The part number I was sold and resold the second time is 2563LSP6.

I wired it per verbal instruction. I would like to get to the bottom of this for the fluid drive / gyromatic cars. 

Did you try the 7ohm resistor install yet as Wind had laid out?  I am interested to see if that made any difference for you.

[Frank Gooz]

Big question. with our positive ground cars do I wire the  the Pertronix coil as marked ?  Or will the wires need to flip? 

[49WINDS]

7 minutes ago, Frank Gooz said:

Big question. with our positive ground cars do I wire the  the Pertronix coil as marked ?  Or will the wires need to flip? 

As long as you bought the model made for positive 6 volt cars then you should wire it as their instructions show. I'm pretty sure you have the same model as I do so if you look at my pictures maybe that will help.

[C3 Garagesc]

Got the Pertronix setup, but can't find the 7 ohm 10W resistor.  Is that the only way to ensure the Interrupter works?  If so, any help in locating  a resistor is grestly appreciated.

 

Bill

(843) 478-9285

[MackTheFinger]

32 minutes ago, C3 Garagesc said:

Got the Pertronix setup, but can't find the 7 ohm 10W resistor.  Is that the only way to ensure the Interrupter works?  If so, any help in locating  a resistor is grestly appreciated.

 

Bill

(843) 478-9285

 

I've no idea if the ignition will work for you but this resistor should be what you're looking for.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FE02?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIMow1WQ9W2ngtIHFi7S0xHY%3D

Edited April 5, 2021 by MackTheFinger

[49WINDS]

9 minutes ago, MackTheFinger said:

 

This one's rated with a higher wattage dissipation value but it'll work.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FE02?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIMow1WQ9W2ngtIHFi7S0xHY%3D

 

This is the one that I ended up buying, funny because it looks to have the same specs as yours.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FC02?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugnNOB0EMLp0DKbULhieLhTUXysTlS6nodZ2YMVcebWmw%3D%3D

[MackTheFinger]

12 minutes ago, 49WINDS said:

 

This is the one that I ended up buying, funny because it looks to have the same specs as yours.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FC02?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugnNOB0EMLp0DKbULhieLhTUXysTlS6nodZ2YMVcebWmw%3D%3D

That is weird. Same specs, different number? Oh, well; it's good to have choices!!

 

Edit: it appears that the one ending in E02 is lead-free if that's a consideration. Regardless, they're functionally the same.

Edited April 5, 2021 by MackTheFinger

[chrysler1941]

3 hours ago, C3 Garagesc said:

Got the Pertronix setup, but can't find the 7 ohm 10W resistor.  Is that the only way to ensure the Interrupter works?  If so, any help in locating  a resistor is grestly appreciated.

 

Bill

(843) 478-9285

Adding another resistor to factory resistor thus changing the value, could disable it's function and introduce piston shuttle.

 

12 ohm.pdf

Edited April 5, 2021 by chrysler1941

[Worden18]

After my engine rebuild I installed pertronics. I was very happy with it for 4 years until it failed on me and blew out my muffler. Luckily I didn't get stranded anywhere but the car ran terrible. I have since completely rebuilt the distributor and put points back in. I was always afraid of distributors. There's really nothing to them. If a dummy like me can have it at top dead center and out of the car in 5 minutes, anyone can do it.  I set the points on the bench and plop the distributor back in. Done!

51 Meadowbrook, Fluid Drive, 6v + ground

Edited April 6, 2021 by Worden18

[Sniper]

Points have the benefit of being fairly simple to see how they operate and are more user friendly in a roadside repair scenario.

 

Electronic ignition has the benefit of being more maintenance free, stable and consistent.

 

My planned setup will be the merging of the electronics from a slant six distributor and the mechanicals of the old flathead setup.  OE parts that can be gotten anywhere which Pertronics lacks that.

 

Both are pretty much fine for just a cruiser though

[motterso]

Another option is an HEI conversion. Langdon's Stovebolt sells a kit: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979

I'm running this now in a '53 Plymouth. You do need to convert to 12volt negative ground, but you might want that anyway if you plan to run any modern accessories.

[C3 Garagesc]

On 4/5/2021 at 8:55 PM, Worden18 said:

After my engine rebuild I installed pertronics. I was very happy with it for 4 years until it failed on me and blew out my muffler. Luckily I didn't get stranded anywhere but the car ran terrible. I have since completely rebuilt the distributor and put points back in. I was always afraid of distributors. There's really nothing to them. If a dummy like me can have it at top dead center and out of the car in 5 minutes, anyone can do it.  I set the points on the bench and plop the distributor back in. Done!

51 Meadowbrook, Fluid Drive, 6v + ground

How did you wire it?  Use a resistor, as mentioned by 49Winds and MackTheFinger?

[Worden18]

1 hour ago, C3 Garagesc said:

How did you wire it?  Use a resistor, as mentioned by 49Winds and MackTheFinger?

Wired as per pertronix instructions, no resistor.  That's for Gyromatic cars if I'm not mistaken.  Mine is Fluid Drive.

[49WINDS]

1 minute ago, Worden18 said:

Wired as per pertronix instructions, no resistor.  That's for Gyromatic cars if I'm not mistaken.  Mine is Fluid Drive.

From what I understand those are the same transmission, just different names used by Chrysler, Dodge, etc. I haven't gotten to put many miles on mine yet but it runs beautifully since putting in the pertronix and a new coil.

[Worden18]

3 minutes ago, 49WINDS said:

From what I understand those are the same transmission, just different names used by Chrysler, Dodge, etc. I haven't gotten to put many miles on mine yet but it runs beautifully since putting in the pertronix and a new coil.

Gyromatic is quite different than Fluid Drive.  There must be a section on it here somewhere.

[49WINDS]

14 minutes ago, Worden18 said:

Gyromatic is quite different than Fluid Drive.  There must be a section on it here somewhere.

Sorry, I lumped the two together because on my car it says fluid drive in the back, but also has the gyro matic or m6 transmission. I forget that there were plenty of other vehicles that had a manual transmission but also came with the fluid drive coupling as well.

 

Long story short-not sure why the pertronix instructions don't state it but another member here had reached out to them about using the m5/6 transmissions and they recommend adding in the resistor.

[MackTheFinger]

There's not much to a points ignition and nobody's gonna get by without working on these old cars sooner or later. I'd just carry some extra parts and be ready to get greasy. 

[Frank Elder]

On 4/7/2021 at 7:03 PM, MackTheFinger said:

There's not much to a points ignition and nobody's gonna get by without working on these old cars sooner or later. I'd just carry some extra parts and be ready to get greasy. 

I buy these old beauties to “Work” on them what fun would an old car be if all you did is drive it? I want to reek of gas, grease and engine oil after a session of cussin’ and fussin’....lol.

I’ll pass on the eau de huile pour d’engrenages  brulee pourtant!

[C3 Garagesc]

Well, got the Pertronix all wired up and had a little issue starting the car.  When it finally started, engine was sluggish and heated up quickly.  I felt the timing was way retarded, and upon further inspection, that proved to be true.  My problem now is I have advanced the distributor as much as possible without pulling it and rotating it and reinstalling.  If this were a small block Chevy, I'd be comfortable in doing that, as, in that situation, the oil pump is driven by the distributor.  My understanding is that with this DeSoto, the pump drives the distributor. That being the case, my question is, how do I reclock the distributor?

 

Thanks.

[Plymouthy Adams]

re-clock the wire on the distributor cap......

[C3 Garagesc]

Thanks for the suggestion.  I was looking to do that but one of the wires, #3, is too short.  So I thought, if there's another way without too much trouble, might do that.

 

Do you know if the oil pump is accessible from outside of engine without a bunch of work?

[Plymouthy Adams]

oil pump is serviced externally.....some applications may require a slight lift of the engine to clean a frame rail

[Plymouthy Adams]

as an added in case you not aware there is another bolt on the adjuster that locks the distributor to the adjuster plate...added movement can be obtained.