Dodge D14 flathead won’t start

[Roman]

Hi, I am currently restoring a Dodge D14 1940.

 

I ve done a lot to figure out the electrical and finally got spark at the plugs and and fuel pump working. 
 

The carburetor seems to be working, the fuel pump is working, I’ve got spark at every spark. The engine cranks but won’t fire over. 
 

the closest I’ve got, was a lawn mower type shrug from it, where it tried to kick over but didn’t start. 
 

One thing that I have noticed is that the starter seems to be struggling turning the engine. When I rotate the fan by hand it moves fine until a certain point in its rotation where it seems to be very hard to rotate it. Once it gets past that point it’s smooth again. 
 

what would you suggest? 

[Plymouthy Adams]

start with a compression test and if this shows good, follow with proper static timing....

[Sniper]

It is not uncommon for the engine to get harder to turn over as compression builds, however if the starter is struggling then something else is amiss.  Pull all the plugs adn see if it turns over without binding, if it does then it's likely compression, if it doesn't then you have a mechanical issue.  You can turn it over by  hand for a better feel, pun intended.  Good luck.

[nc plumber]

I would be willing to bet that at least 1 intake valve is stuck open. The previously mentioned compression test will identify which cylinder (s).

[Sniper]

How would a stuck open intake make the engine hard to turn over?

[nc plumber]

It won't make it harder to turn over, but will keep it from starting. Especially if more than one valve is stuck.

[Plymouthy Adams]

buy some lucky charms and maybe you get free snake oil in the box...without starting with some basic rudimentary troublshooting...it is a roll of the dice...chances are you may do some damage....Pulling a head is childs play and good sense for an engine that shows some sign of resistance to turning...but then as is always the prayer of the wannabe...maybe he will get lucky..

[knuckleharley]

Sounds to me like ONE problem you might have is the timing is too high. Have you  checked to make sure that when the number 1 cylinder is on TDC that the rotor is pointing at the Number 1 spark plug wire on your distributor cap?

 

Have you turned the engine over with the distributor cap off so you can watch it to make sure the distributor shaft is turning? Just rock the engine back and forth with the plugs out and a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley nut,and you will be able to get some idea if there is any slack in the timing chain,or if it is broken.

 

[greg g]

Assuming you are six volt positive ground, are your primary battery cables proper gauge or has some one swapped in 12v thin ones?  Did you do a static timing procedure and assure your spark plugs leads are in proper firing order and properly indexed to the rotors position?  Number 1 should be at 7 0clock assuming the oil pump is still indexed properly to the cam.  Pull all the plugs do a compression check, then do a static timing procedure. If everything checks out and is in proper order she should light off.  When I put my rebuilt engine in and triple checked everything, I found that my firing order while correctly sequenced was one position off in relation to the rotor.  No start, some popping and some hydro locking from flooding. When I got it right it started so quickly it scared me.

[Kilgore47]

One more thing to check.  I have a 1947 P15 and it had similar symptoms.  Checked all of the things mentioned above and everything was good.  Finally tracked it down to a bad ground connection on the block.  Cleaned the connection and went back with a new cable.  Starts good now. 

[JBNeal]

9 hours ago, Roman said:

...

One thing that I have noticed is that the starter seems to be struggling turning the engine. When I rotate the fan by hand it moves fine until a certain point in its rotation where it seems to be very hard to rotate it. Once it gets past that point it’s smooth again. 
 

what would you suggest? 

 

I suggest turning that crankshaft over several full turns with a wrench on that crank pulley nut, marking the pulley when ya hit the hard spot, to see if that spot is in the same place with each revolution.  For good measure, when ya get close to that hard spot, crawl underneath and turn the flywheel teeth with a prybar; that'll give ya a good idea of what the starter is seeing when it is cranking away.  Might be a sticky valve that is hard to open and "slow" to close...hopefully not a spun bearing, those usually feel like a tight crankshaft throughout its revolution...

 

additional information - starter ground performance upgrade   

[DJ194950]

Have all plugs been removed and oil added to the cylinders to lube after some (assumed) sitting unused). Maybe some rust in one or more cylinders causing the drag through one spot. If dry you could be causing problems in the cylinder(s) rings, wall, etc.

 

Maybe removing the head would be a great idea to check? as suggested.  That head of your appears to be different that later models with the humped up area at the driver side rear part.  I do not know if that was how 40 heads are myself.?

 

DJ

[Ulu]

ASSUMING you have fuel, compression, and pretty good timing. . . .

 

If the engine is a bit rusty/sticky inside from sitting, I would tow-start the car instead of burning up the starter. Once everything loosens up a bit it may be easier to start.

 

Now if it's a rare and valuable engine, I wouldn't want to do that. I'd want to tear it all down and build it back up.

 

But not everyone can or will, and this is a cast iron Mopar. You won't really hurt it unless there's already something very wrong, in which case you'll be tearing down soon anyhow.

 

But a quick tow around the block may get it running enough to tell much more about the condition of things. You're going to have a rusty cylinder, ring and valve on whichever cylinders stopped with a valve open, and sat there for years.

 

The only time this doesn't happen is if the car is properly prepared for long term storage, which almost never happens.

[Roman]

Thanks Guys! I appreciate all the comments. I will start with the compression test tomorrow and then do a timing check to make sure it all lines up.

 

any resources I can use when doing the timing on a flat head 6? Maybe a good YouTube tutorial or other material?

[JBNeal]

additional information - static ignition timing 

 

additional information - maintenance specifications