Old guy with a new car and introductions all around

[milo9rat]

Really like the VW.. Oh, and the fastback ain't bad either....

[DJ194950]

Brake light switch is located in a terrible position!

 

It is inline on the inside of the frame, ahead of the rear axle, drivers side. Screwed into a brass block ( top side) that the line from the M.C. to the back of car and then from that block at short brake tube runs up the frame towards the rear wheel to a bolted on tab where it then connects to the flexible rubber hose to another brass block on the top side on the rear axle housing. While crawling around under there -remove the bolt ( only) that holds the brass brake line block on top of the rear end. It unscrews with washers top and bottom for sealing to tube. It has a air breather on top for allowing air to exit and inter the housing .  Clean the breather with some brake clean and re-install.

 

If the breather gets plugged up it can cause the gear oil to push out past the rear seal and make for leaks. Just some easy preventative maintenance

 

DJ.

[knuckleharley]

26 minutes ago, milo9rat said:

Really like the VW.. Oh, and the fastback ain't bad either....

I like the VW too,but for the life of me can't figure out how you can lower one that much and still have a suspension that works.

 

Unless of course it has airbags and hydraulics.

 

One of MY dirty little secrets is I freaking LOVE VW's. Always wanted a Karmen-Ghia,but due to blubber and back injuries,if somebody gave me one and I somehow managed to get into it,it would take the rescue squad and torches to get me out again.

[Sam Buchanan]

The headlight switch fuse is a SFE 30a which is 1/4" x 1 7/16". This is longer than the more common AGC fuses. I bought a box of them at the local Napa store.

 

I'm a Beetle dude, too, they were my first cars and I went through several. Here is the last one, a '74 Standard, which was a total ground-up restoration and went to a new home three months ago when I was adopted by a Triumph TR6. Front beam narrowed 3" and 2" drop spindles and quite a bit of body shaving.

 

Your '50 fastback is a really cool ride, don't hesitate to modify it however you wish. You don't have to please anyone but yourself (definitely not a few old cranks on an obscure internet forum....).  ?

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[KyMoonshine]

4 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

I like the VW too,but for the life of me can't figure out how you can lower one that much and still have a suspension that works.

 

Unless of course it has airbags and hydraulics.

 

One of MY dirty little secrets is I freaking LOVE VW's. Always wanted a Karmen-Ghia,but due to blubber and back injuries,if somebody gave me one and I somehow managed to get into it,it would take the rescue squad and torches to get me out again.

I dont even run shocks on front and the rear is pretty close to bump stops, it rides like a skateboard and you just get used to it

 

Ghias are super narrow, I cant drive one at my size, they taper towards the front

 

I am 6'3 and 450lbs, I used to wrestle for a living back in the day, and I still have more room in a Volkswagen Beetle than I do in this 50 Plymouth because the steering column is so long, I actually tried to figure a way to move the seat back further today

[KyMoonshine]

4 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

The headlight switch fuse is a SFE 30a which is 1/4" x 1 7/16". This is longer than the more common AGC fuses. I bought a box of them at the local Napa store.

 

I'm a Beetle dude, too, they were my first cars and I went through several. Here is the last one, a '74 Standard, which was a total ground-up restoration and went to a new home three months ago when I was adopted by a Triumph TR6. Front beam narrowed 3" and 2" drop spindles and quite a bit of body shaving.

 

Your '50 fastback is a really cool ride, don't hesitate to modify it however you wish. You don't have to please anyone but yourself (definitely not a few old cranks on an obscure internet forum....).  ?

 

 

 

 

Good looking Beetle, I have lost count of how many Beetles I have had, along with a couple of Things and a few buses, but Beetles remain my favorite, I have a 12x25 room off my garage full of VW parts lol

Edited October 8, 2020 by KyMoonshine

[KyMoonshine]

I spent some time with this car today and decided I am going to leave the suspension alone for now and just drive it stock for awhile, I need to source an oil bath air-cleaner and a few other things I'm sure, also which of these service manuals do you recommend?

[greg g]

I have the orange covered one it's pretty complete. The other thing to look for is the illustrated parts book.  Lots of exploded drawings of assemblies.  Any of the service manuals are worth having.

[KyMoonshine]

1 hour ago, greg g said:

I have the orange covered one it's pretty complete. The other thing to look for is the illustrated parts book.  Lots of exploded drawings of assemblies.  Any of the service manuals are worth having.

Orange one being the third one down? also what does the stock oil bath air cleaner look like?

 

Also there are about 10 different styles for sale on eBay right now, I have lots of old VW Oil baths but that would look weird lol

 

I feel like I am asking to many questions but also what is the actual size/name of this motor?(other than Flathead lol) I'm amazed how well it runs, just bump the key

Edited October 8, 2020 by KyMoonshine

[greg g]

Yes 3rd one.  Under the ground wire there is a raised pad in the block casting where should be a number stamped there should start with a P23 followed by several other numbers.  This engine number is for a 217.8 cubic inch engine.  P23 is the engineering code for the 1950 model year.  The engine was rated at 97 horse power and around 200 lb ft of torque.  These are long stroke small bore engines peak torque is about 1600 rpm peak horsepower was pulled at 3600.  Reving above 3600 is a futile and some times expensive experience.  The rear axle is likely a 3.99 to 1 gear set.  60 mph will probably find the engine spinning at around 3200 rpm. It will go all day at that rpm assuming good oil pressure and might even leap to 70 for short bursts but you will find it happiest around 50 to 60. Put Chrysler flat head six in a Google image search and you should come up with pics of the air filter It's tall, about 8 inches in diameter.  If you search the resources section of this site I think there is a how to with pictures on converting the housing to use a replaceable paper filter while retaining the stock appearance.  Also go to carnut.com, go to the car spec section and pull up the info there for the 50s. Plymouth.  A lot of stuff like firing order, compression ration initial timing etc are there by year. 

 

If you find a stock air filter make sure it comes with the brace and the carb to cleaner clamp.

 

Edited October 8, 2020 by greg g

[Young Ed]

Greg you're off a year. His car is a p19 but if original it will have a p20 engine. All 50s got p20 even if they were the shorter wb p19s. Still the same 218 as p23

[greg g]

Thanks Ed was thinking odf my friend's 51.  

 

This listing has a couple good pics of the typical air cleaner.

 

 

https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1090550/1947-plymouth-special-deluxe-for-sale-in-boise-idaho-83704

 

[KyMoonshine]

My engine number(which is also my VIN) starts with P20

 

Second owner says rear was swapped some time in the past for 3.73 , the sweet spot on the drive home seemed to put me right around 60mph according to my phone GPS app, its about as slow as a 1300cc Volkswagen lol

 

You guys are much nicer than most internet car forums ?

Edited October 8, 2020 by KyMoonshine

[knuckleharley]

19 minutes ago, KyMoonshine said:

My engine number(which is also my VIN) starts with P20

 

Second owner says rear was swapped some time in the past for 3.73 , the sweet spot on the drive home seemed to put me right around 60mph according to my phone GPS app, its about as slow as a 1300cc Volkswagen lol

 

You guys are much nicer than most internet car forums ?

That's true,but we love Mopars,so we have a lot more to be happy about that most forums.

[KyMoonshine]

Just now, knuckleharley said:

That's true,but we love Mopars,so we have a lot more to be happy about that most forums.

So I take it by your name you are also a Harley guy, I have been building Shovels for many years and have had my first Shovel 30 years, my brother was smaller and rode Pans but I love the Knuckles, I'm just to big to ride one, I bought an Evo once but was to embarrassed to ride it and traded it for a Volkswagen lol

[knuckleharley]

9 minutes ago, KyMoonshine said:

So I take it by your name you are also a Harley guy, I have been building Shovels for many years and have had my first Shovel 30 years, my brother was smaller and rode Pans but I love the Knuckles, I'm just to big to ride one, I bought an Evo once but was to embarrassed to ride it and traded it for a Volkswagen lol

???

I've had a Knucklehead EL I put FLH flywheels,rods,and pistons into,in addition to an original "lightening" cam,and a SU carb off a Volvo,and it would flat FLY. Had a single seat,peanut tank.3/4 inch rake,and a 15 over 1947 Springer with drag bars.

 

First bike to ever turn  8 second quartermile runs was a knucklehead Harley. IIRC,it was a Joe Smith bike.

 

My pan was considerably slower,but it was my first Harley,and was stock before I put a stroker in it. Can't complain about it being slow when I bought it since I only paid 250 bucks and rode it home 50 miles away from where it was bought.

 

My current ride is my second shovel,and due to old age its a basically stock fat bob,other than the 468 Sifton cam,S&S carb, and solid lifters. Does ok for a fat bike. If you own a modern (70's and newer} Harley with the Jap carb,you MUST take that thing off and throw it as far as you can into a land fill to keep it from ever appearing on another motorcycle. Replacing it with a S&S carb makes the bike seem like it has a supercharger on it. Before I put the S&S on it,it would fall flat on it's face when you tried to wind it out.

With the S&S,it would pull the dresser front end off the ground when I would hit second with it wound out.

Edited October 8, 2020 by knuckleharley

[KyMoonshine]

1 minute ago, knuckleharley said:

???

I've had a Knucklehead EL I put FLH flywheels,rods,and pistons into,in addition to an original "lightening" cam,and it would flat FLY. Had a single seat,peanut tank.3/4 inch rake,and a 15 over 1947 Springer with drag bars.

 

First bike to ever turn  8 second quartermile runs was a knucklehead Harley. My pan was considerably slower,but it was my first Harley,and was stock before I put a stroker in it. Can't complain about it being slow when I bought it since I only paid 250 bucks and rode it home 50 miles away from where it was bought.

 

My current ride is my second shovel,and due to old age its a basically stock fat bob,other than the 468 Sifton cam,S&S carb, and solid lifters. Does ok for a fat bike.

Oh I did not mean it was slow, I just need the bigger platform of 70's Electra glide as I am 6'3 and 450lbs, when I ride my brothers Pan its like a Monkey on a football

[knuckleharley]

5 minutes ago, KyMoonshine said:

Oh I did not mean it was slow, I just need the bigger platform of 70's Electra glide as I am 6'3 and 450lbs, when I ride my brothers Pan its like a Monkey on a football

Gotcha.

[KyMoonshine]

I've spent the last few hours on this site reading tech and resources as well as lots of searches on oil etc and I have so much to learn about old American cars

 

I do want to change the oil first thing and I use Rotella in most of my non German stuff but I am having trouble figuring out what kind of oil filter I currently have and where to purchase one, searches were not to helpful on it and fairly confusing. I am going to assume its the big black dirty canister on firewall with the nut on top(picture above) and that it uses a drop in filter of some type?

 

I have a shop manual on the way

 

I also need to source a wheel for a spare because I drive a lot, I did find info here on what should work on it.

 

Also is there a membership or Patreon etc where I can support this site? 

 

Okay I understand P15 were models stopped in 48 but what is D24?

Edited October 8, 2020 by KyMoonshine

[knuckleharley]

5 hours ago, KyMoonshine said:

I've spent the last few hours on this site reading tech and resources as well as lots of searches on oil etc and I have so much to learn about old American cars

 

I do want to change the oil first thing and I use Rotella in most of my non German stuff but I am having trouble figuring out what kind of oil filter I currently have and where to purchase one, searches were not to helpful on it and fairly confusing. I am going to assume its the big black dirty canister on firewall with the nut on top(picture above) and that it uses a drop in filter of some type?

 

I have a shop manual on the way

 

I also need to source a wheel for a spare because I drive a lot, I did find info here on what should work on it.

 

Also is there a membership or Patreon etc where I can support this site? 

 

Okay I understand P15 were models stopped in 48 but what is D24?

A D-24 is a 46-48 Dodge.

 

Forget Rotella or any other high detergent oil until  you have driven the car for a while and determined how much,if any,oil it burns,and how much oil pressure it holds. IMHO,it's best to flush the base and change the filter a few times,too.

After all,why bother to pull the oil pan to clean it out until you know how much oil pressure it holds and if it burns oil before you drop the pan to flush it out. Running it and flushing the oil while it is hot several times helps to clean out t.he oil passages,and if it is going to need new bearings,rights,and/or oil pump,do it all at one time.

 

Once you know the engine is not going to be a problem,drop the pan,clean it out good,and THEN you can run modern high detergent oil in it.

 

Until you do this,stick with a straight 30 or 40 wt non-detergent oil.

 

Probably best to stick with a straight 30 or 40 wt detergent oil after you flush the system,too. I recently tried a 15W-40 detergent oil in my 51 Victoria,and it holds zero oil pressure at idle,and 40 psi running down the road. I don't like 0 oil pressure at any time,so I am going to drain it and go back to a 30 wt detergent oil.

[lepic56]

Welcome to the group ,, 

What a nice Fastback,, Congrat!!

[Young Ed]

10 hours ago, KyMoonshine said:

Orange one being the third one down? also what does the stock oil bath air cleaner look like?

 

Also there are about 10 different styles for sale on eBay right now, I have lots of old VW Oil baths but that would look weird lol

 

I feel like I am asking to many questions but also what is the actual size/name of this motor?(other than Flathead lol) I'm amazed how well it runs, just bump the key

I run a Napa 1010 there is also a 1071 and I think a 1056 but don't quote me on that third one. I run 10w40 in all my stuff but they have rebuilt engines. 

[Dan Hiebert]

Welcome!  I've always admired the fastbacks, you've made a nice score there.  Yes, that ugly black canister at the back of the engine is the oil filter, with a drop in element.  I use a Fram C134PL filter.  

 

I, too, am a bit of an ACVW nut.  I currently have a stock '70 Beetle that is my summer bombing around car, although I discovered yesterday that some local rodents are ACVW nuts as well, so now I have to find out what they plugged or chewed up that the car won't run.  Usually runs like a scalded ape...well...maybe a scalded spider monkey.    

[MarkAubuchon]

very nice, dont see many fast backs.  pm me with what your looking for

[greg g]

Many of us with recently rebuilt engines use multi viscosity diesel oil. Most will recommend sticking with single weight non detergent to keep the sludge and lead pudding where it is.  The filtering system is a bypass circuit that favors providing oil to the engine instead of forcing it through the filter. Conventional wisdom suggests that only about 30% of oil is diverted to the filter.  Specs suggest any positive oil pressure at hot idle is OK, and rule of thumb is 10 psi per ten mph at cruise to a maximum of 50 psi.  Over 50 psi not healthy for seals.napa 1080 filters also fit the can and element filters.